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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I want that rucksack!
It is a Karrimor for sure, maybe Whillans model.
I had use of one for a time, 'pulled the pattern and made a number of copies. Only an approximation though, as I could never source all those cool materials: snaps for the flap similar to car topping industry stuff, wool felt shoulder straps, very burly canvass...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Hi Todd,
For those who might not recognize the name, Todd Eastman did the first ascent with Tobin of the Sorenson/Eastman Couloir on the Dent du Requin in September of 1977. He also did an early repeat of the Super Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul, that same season.
Rick
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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Proud ticklist Todd! What are your recollections of those classic ice routes?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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I have been looking for a shot of Don Jensen's face and found one reliably in Chris Jones' Climbing in North America, 1975.
Harvard Mountaineering Club group to Wickersham Wall, 1963. From left: Don Jensen, John Graham, Dave Roberts, Pete Carman, Rick Millikan, Hank Abrons and Chris Goetze. John Graham photo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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While we have Kennedy in the house! Here is the story behind the bleary bivi shot that he posted earlier. From Glenn Randall's superb Vertigo Games, 1983.
Bring back any memories Michael?
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 11, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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From later catalogs, red Chouinard rope, Whillians, jumars, Chouinard wall pack, green Shoenards, the required rugby shirt, and a schizo hat. Etriers made according to directions on page 54. This is the 2nd sunrise, 2 full days out on 6 snickers, 2 quarts of water and a 150 ft leader fall on a body belay, late afternoon the previous day.
Canada. The sun had been out all day, soft, plastic ice...now we are in shade, sun is gone, with temps dropping to -30 rather quickly. Something we had not experienced before. Down vest, (wet by now) wool shirt, Scotish Knickers from Chouinard, a really big boiled wool hat, Dachstein mitts, Super gaiters, 1st gen chouinard rigids, alpine hammer and 55cm hickory axe, Trappeur boots, Salewa tubes without slots, worth less Charlet Moser screws and a wart hog. I am getting seriously cold and figure we should at least document our impending doom. My partner is even more pissed because he doesn't want to stop and take a picture of my sorry ass. He had thoughtfully brought along his down jacket. His puffy little piece was a hand sewn Frostline kit he was very proud of, come to think of it but his feet had long ago lost feeling in Superguides and a Millet knee high canvas gaiters.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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Nice bivi-sized wool hat!
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 13, 2009 - 07:05pm PT
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Just ran a few items through an inflation calculator for fun.
On the 1972 catalog price list:
Piolet 35. (by 1974 they were $50 or $227 today)
alpine hammer 18.
Haderer boots 115.
Trappeur boots 64.
wall hammer 16.
With inflation today:
Piolet 35. = $180
alpine hammer 18. = $92.
Haderer boots 115. = $590
Trappeur boots 64. $329
wall hammer 16. = $82
Vintage bamboo Piolet on Ebay $150 and up
Vintage alpine hammer on Ebay $50 and up
New BD wall hammer @ retail $100
New Galibier Super Guide boot @ retail $400 plus shipping
Sportiva Evo Nepal @ retail $475.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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Necessity is the mother of a better ice tool...YC from Climbing Ice, 1978.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Jan 14, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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Le technique francaise por le homme francaise. On Ice and Snow and Rock---none better.
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 18, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Photos by Ray Brooks
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 19, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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Please excuse the size but I thought some might want to actually be able to read this. There is more if anyone wants to see it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 09:55am PT
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I had a pair of Walker wool gloves and they were sweet! Reasonable for free climbing performance and warm as toast.
I wonder how many people ever used the cheater wire hole on the Crack' N'Ups?!?
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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Dane- those scans are TOO BIG! It is better to expand the text onscreen if you need magnification. My scanner has a 50% setting that I use. 100% and downloads are slow as molasses at every turn!
The people with dial up........yikes.
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Yep, dial up would really suck on this thread. I don't have anything inbetween, so smaller it is.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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Jan 20, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Do I see a wool balaclava up thread?
Ka-ching!
I remember seeing Yvon in that envelope hat he was wearing and thinking that was the schiznit. I finally found one at an XC ski shop where they were selling them to people who wanted to look like Bill Koch in the 76 Olympics.
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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Oh ya, that is a wool balaclava, along with the Egge jacket and hood from the catalog update, with a bamboo piolet in the back ground as the sun comes up on an Alaska bivi.
Here is another with a foam back from the same trip.
photo by Ray Brooks
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Jan 20, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
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Seeing that nobody seems to use those wool balaclavas
any more...
and that they're my favorite...
and that I lost my last one...
can anybody set me up?
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