Bolt chopping at Sugarloaf

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couchmaster

climber
Apr 15, 2015 - 11:21am PT
Todd Skinner was from Wyoming, so you sort of get a pass on this rant cause he was such a good guy and you're both from Wyoming and all. That and bolt rants slowed down after 1984 or so. I have an idea, lets let the Sugarloaf locals figure this out.




Wyotrad124 said:
"Vitality your profile listing says mountain climber yet you pay know respect to those who paved the road?? Alex Lowe was simply the best but would decline to acknowledge anytime anyone said so and has bigger nuts than you!Reinhold Messner is the godfather of Alpinism and his nuts are probably bigger than two of your heads duct taped together. Goes to prove my point about hot shot know it all uneducated climbers. And for the rest of you...anyone who would favor placing bolts and are so strongly against chopping bolts/bolt ladders... I agree that the property should be returned but as far as chopping bolts how about the Compressor route getting chopped? The ethics dont apply to one area they apply to everywhere... The compressor route on Cerro Torre should have been chopped along time ago and now that it finally was chopped a few years back the Alpinists responsible were/are under heavy fire. There is an "Over" usage of bolts in the Climbing community and any Joe off the street can reach the top of a route by unfair means my arguement is not against bolts but in fact against this fast growing militia of so called "Elitist Sport Climbers" With no ethics concerning the environment or other climbers who think that bolts should be everywhere....El Cap, Moonlight Buttress, Half Dome The Apron where does it end?? Before you know it every bolt placing unable to place pro average joe as#@&%e will have desecrated thousands of the worlds most classic or iconic climbs.Thinking that we own the stone is wrong... Being a part of the stone and climbing by fair means and having fun is right. But ill stick to my guns when I say that placing bolts has its place, chopping bolts is a right reserved by those who climb in clean style instead of hangdogging from a bunch of bolts.Because like it or not sport climbers your style destroys more stone than a thousand cam placements simple as that so limiting bolt usage and chopping routes that have been wrongly put up. Nuff said! "
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 15, 2015 - 11:58am PT
Because like it or not sport climbers your style destroys more stone than a thousand cam placements simple as that so limiting bolt usage and chopping routes that have been wrongly put up. Nuff said! "

Was there a particular wall that collapsed due to a placed bolt? Honestly, I think bolts look much better than pin scars or rat nest of ugly tat around a block. Bolts and proper rap stations not only add safety but also make some routes/crags appear cleaner. I have not placed a single bolt at sugarloaf or contributed to the rich number of great climbs in the crag, however I do respect others who have. I will not critique what they did because they obviously put in more of their own hard work and love to that place than me. I do not agree with bolting on pre-existing lines, but it seems like the people that go there happily climb whatever is there now. I am not sure adding bolts over an existing climb was in the climber's intentions. The climbs up there are no sport climbs. Hope you go climb Bolee Gold and Blue Velvet. Both are safe but make one nervous, well at least those of us who don't feel super secure with granite thin face climbing. :) Every time I been to that crag I encountered fairly nice people having a good time. Having some dumbass preaching about Messner's ethics would be highly entertaining though...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 15, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
Why O Rox climbers?

Idaho Wolves...
WyoTrad124

climber
Apr 15, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
Messners ethics called bolting the Murder of the impossible and there are thousands of climbers who have supported this theory I have never clipped a f*#kin bolt in my life I placed my first piece of pro when I was nine on my first alpine route if i cant climb it free then i dont climb it... I used a piton once on a vacation trip to the Chamonix I carry them but they are last resort only because banging pins does damage the rock and leave ugly scars... Im not a troll but I am a purist bolts are cheating plain and simple and an eyesore... Mark Twight wrote a passage on bolts in his his highly regarded book on Alpinism "Bolts: Not in my book any wall can be climbed by unfair means"
WyoTrad124

climber
Apr 15, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
Chop em all!!
WBraun

climber
Apr 15, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
Bolts are not unfair.

They are a last resort, used as a bridge.

You can swim every time you come to a bridge instead of crossing it to remain fair a pure .....
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Apr 15, 2015 - 11:28pm PT
Bolts ... make some routes/ crags appear cleaner.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Apr 16, 2015 - 06:08am PT
“Young people get the foolish idea that what is new for them must be new for everybody else too. No matter how unconventional they get, they're just repeating what others before them have done.” ~ Yukio Mishima

Goddamn youngsters.

Mars, will any one walk on it? I am sure the Apollo astronauts(from the grave) will have plenty to say about the pussy techniques used to "cheat" by "the younger generation" that push the technical limits far beyond what they themselves achieved.

Bolting, drones, calculators, blenders, GPS, and f-ing utensils. Why ride a horse to town when God gave you two perfectly good feet, and whatever you do, don't get vaccinated or eat quiche.

The paradox of playing games.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Apr 16, 2015 - 06:38am PT
Somebody should murder this impossible
Thread..
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Apr 16, 2015 - 06:48am PT
Hey Stewart, thanks! This thread needed a nice photo. I remember running up Farley many a time. What a great place to climb!
WyoTrad124

Trad climber
Wyoming
Apr 18, 2015 - 01:20am PT
Still overbolting is wrong period end of discussion... I was saying that some of those routes probably needed to be chopped and who the f*#k bolts a boulder???
Bad Climber

climber
Apr 18, 2015 - 06:24am PT
Ah, "over bolting"? There's the rub. I guess it's like porno: I can't define it, but I know it when I see it? I clipped a bunch of bolts yesterday--awesome fun! This particular area would have almost no climbing but for bolting. Well, there'd be some bouldering, but who wants to trash the base of boulders with crash pads? Talk about impacts!

Wyotradster: Seriously, you've NEVER clipped a bolt? I guess that's technically possible, but I can't imagine how less interesting my climbing life would be if I lived like that. Go do a lap on Crest Jewel and tell me bolts are bad. Damn, that's one fine outing. Without bolts, it would be a death solo.

BAd
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
Wyo trad...?
Another ranting nut job in a long lineage of ranting nut jobs
Way to maintain the tradition.

Your like an AM radio station. Blow hard. All theatrics. Don't give an inch. Yell louder than the caller and hang up.


Perhaps you should join a militia where you can vent your anger and bomb a few people
WyoTrad124

Trad climber
Wyoming
Apr 20, 2015 - 11:02pm PT
Long lineage? Blow hard? All theatrics? I consistently climb long multipitch trad routes and alpine lines? Ive never clipped a bolt ever! You call it what you want but overbolting is wrong and as for bad climbers post any thing can be climbed but bolts are bending the environment to your will not rising up to the challenge if you cant climb it without bolts then maybe its time to scamper back to the playground. Ill stand behind my words as a climber and your damn right long lineage and restate Mark Twight and Reinhold Messners words "Any One Can climb a route by unfair means." and Reinhold Messner spoke of bolts as the murder of the impossible. All ive intended on these posts is to state that history is filled with the use of bolts and people who follow the right code of ethics have filled in the slots by chopping bolted lines so cry about about a couple hours of work and money spent on your bullshit bolts at the loaf but in my opinion its like the food chain who ever is chopping peoples pointless bullshit bolted routes up there is managing it the way it ought to be because It sounds like the Loaf has a major overbolting problem so the chopper is taking care of it and good on them. F*#k the rest of yall and shame on you for adding extra man made garbage to the environment we all love to play in.
WyoTrad124

Trad climber
Wyoming
Apr 20, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
And perhaps you should reconsider yourself as a trad climber if your gonna ride on the bolts is right side?? Know your disciplines and what separates them ya d#@&%e!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Apr 20, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
Wyo, have you ever climbed at Sugarloaf?
WyoTrad124

Trad climber
Wyoming
Apr 20, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
Yes I have plenty of fine trad lines to be had.Morticia was my first moderate at the loaf and of the first ten moderates I ever climbed and ive seen sh#t bolted for sport routes that could be protected otherwise
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 21, 2015 - 12:30am PT
Expansion bolts are taken for granted nowadays; they are kept to hand just in case some difficulty cannot be overcome by ordinary methods. Today's climber doesn't want to cut himself off from the possibility of retreat: he carries his courage in his rucksack, in the form of bolts and equipment.

Rock faces are no longer overcome by climbing skill, but are humbled, pitch by pitch, by methodical manual labor; what isn't done today will be done tomorrow. Free-climbing routes are dangerous, so the are protected by pegs. Ambitions are no longer built on skill, but on equipment and the length of time available. The decisive factor isn't courage, but technique; an ascent may take days and days, and the pegs and bolts counted in the hundreds.

Retreat has become dishonorable, because everyone knows now that a combination of bolts and singlemindedness will get you up anything, even the most repulsive-looking direttissima.

While this statement may be true for aid climbing, bolts only make protecting free climbing easier. The skill required to ascend a route free is not enhanced or diminished by the presence of the expansion bolt. Mental security may be enhanced by the metal, but the physical act of climbing remains the same.

Pins have done far more damage than bolts. Look at the cracks of Yosemite. Permanently scarred. At least a bolt hole can be filled. Rock isn't a permanent fixture either. The landscape is forever changing....

Zodiac wall rockfall..

WyoTrad124

Trad climber
Wyoming
Apr 21, 2015 - 03:14am PT
Correct but... Piton Usage became less and less as nuts and tricams and other protection devices arrived on the scene... And I never made an arguement in accordance to pitons... I did say however that traditional ways of climbing from the alpinist discipline is light fast and "LEAVE NO TRACE!!!! You wanna talk and argue about access issues every d#@&%ebag dropping bolts into any crag on private or even public land is gonna bring attention to the climbing community nuff said and you just contradicted yourself something horrible your ripped off post/quotation is direct speech supporting the alpine/leave no trace climbing ethos ergo you sir are uneducated like every other opposer of my view point and i stand on one side of the fence instead of making myself look retarded while riding neutral! But have a nice day!
WyoTrad124

Trad climber
Wyoming
Apr 21, 2015 - 03:18am PT
And clipping bolts is not free climbing dont know what little sporty european dream world you stepped out of!!!
Messages 141 - 160 of total 178 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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