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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 15, 2011 - 07:03pm PT
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So,uh, where in the digestive process does barf turn into poo?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 15, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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I had hoped to see some more stories about fixed pins, but none so far. They were probably few and far between, and now long snagged as souvenirs. The thread title says 'Squamish Photos and Stories', which by my interpretation would limit the photos to Squamish, but not the stories. So here's one from further afield. At the time we thought it was hilarious, and we laughed all day. I still smile at the thought of it, but some readers will go "tsk, tsk", I can hear them already.
Chamonix. July 1961. Aiguille Mummery 12,136', SW Face. V Superior [5+]. 14 or so pitches. Two teenagers.
This was a fairly sustained rockclimb, and our guidebook, Mont Blanc Select went into some detail. It indicated the number of fixed pins on each pitch, and even described some, such as "a U-section piton" [angle]. We thought it would be funny if we removed this U-section, and replaced it on the next pitch, thereby spreading doubt and confusion. Which we did. We then did our best to mix up the number of fixed pins on all of the remaining pitches, by adding or removing pins as required. Funnneee! The two parties below us both bailed by noon. Coincidence of course. On the last pitch I found a cord etrier, with 4 metal rungs, and an aluminum Simond biner. Score! Someone had obviously been desperate, so we left that pin alone, but took the gear.
To get down, we still had to traverse the Aiguille Ravanel, 12,123' and then do a bunch of raps. Part way down the rope jammed. Since it was getting late, we had to cut it. My beautiful new red rope! Payback of course!!
Big grins, as Tami would say.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 15, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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That's hilarious. Hamish, you are evil.
Here are a few (very lo-res) shots of the first ascent of p2 of Borderline. We finally finished cleaning that pitch at about 2 o'clock one summer afternoon and when we got together at the belay we drew straws (twigs, actually) to see who would get the first shot at leading it. I won, and started to rack up, but Eric and Susan just looked at me like I was an idiot.
"You're going to lead it now?"
"Well, I won the draw, didn't I?"
"Uh, yeah, but it's in full sun now. You'll slide all over it."
"Nah, no worries, I can do it."
Should have listened to them, cuz the rock was about 100 degrees and of course my shoe rubber melted on the crux and I greased off. They gave me another shot, but the result was the same, and I handed it off to Eric who had drawn the next-shortest twig. He wisely said something like "Right. Down we go then, and I'll give it a shot in the morning."
Which he did. Got it clean on his first try. (Of course we'd all TRed it a bunch, but that was his first shot at leading it.)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:09am PT
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Hamie? fraser? If so, would you like to tell us the tale of your bold solo mission up the Uwall before you were old enough to apply for your drivers license...
p.s. you sound like a trouble maker, my mom warned me about people like you... haha, jokes
I had been in awe of the line for quite some time now, and as I just bought my first etrier yesterday I figured today was a great day to start working towards a 'Higher education'. So with the grigri I rented from big mike (note I say rented, as the giant cheapo wouldnt straight up lend it :P) I set out to my first day of university! I was the only student to show up today, and even tho I only went up the first pitch I learned alot. I need to get some jumars now so I can keep going up!!
Nice pics and story ghosts! this thread is bumpin'! What year was that, and was that Eric W.??
I made it out to the cirque of the uncrackables and I didnt find any slab just as you promised... is it considered an aid onsite seeing as none of my gear blew out...?
Thanks for the reply Tami, do you know it is know the hardest traditionally protected climb in canada and posibly N.A.
BmacD or jim b. care to elaborate on the horrendous accident noted in your guide book?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Hamie = Hamish Mutch. Read up on University Wall.
Hamish Fraser may sometimes lurk here, but hasn't posted.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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Oops, I seem to have confused the two (excuse me if there is more) Great Hamishs of squamish. My bad
How long did the first ascent take you guys? Did all four of you bivi up there or fix lines? Did you guys have jumars back then? You guys are legends!!
.. and does anyone know approximately what year hamish f. aid solosd it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2011 - 11:17am PT
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Hamish- amazing story. I determined before thanks to bmacs thread that this is about squamish climbers and their antics, not necessarily where they took place.
Interesting that you guys seemed to want to leave your mark on the route, not unlike some younger climbers who liked to come up with new names!
Tami- Cobra fa eh? Wow. Too bad PC didn't finish that then boyd couldn't have used it (GWN) on his unending Slab 13.
Ghost- Awesome. Great photos, great story. Did you come in from the top to take those pics?
Thanks to you all for taking the time to pass on your tales to the younger generation, so that we have a better appreciation of following in your footsteps.
Luke- maybe if some of the other things I'd loaned you had come back in better condition I would have been less hesitant. :)
I'm glad you got it done yesterday, and that someone finally used that thing to solo something.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 16, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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Ghost- Awesome. Great photos, great story. Did you come in from the top to take those pics?
Yeah, I hiked to the summit in the dark, then down-soloed High Plains Drifter and Angels Crest to about the midpoint, then traversed across the blank face (free solo of course) to where Eric was about to start the struggle.
Not.
We still had a rope fixed to the top of the second pitch, so I just jugged up and down that while he did his thing and Susan belayed.
Some time later, while we were cleaning the pitches above, gf and Jim Brennan came up and climbed the first two. I remember watching Greg cruise through the hard stuff (11c was right at the limit of what any of us three could climb back then, but no big deal for him), and then falling just past where Eric is in the last picture. If he'd been a less gifted climber (like us) he'd have got that move easily, cuz you can kind of step down onto a good hold, and go a bit more to the right, but being the way-hone that he was, he was totally focused on "up".
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 16, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Who created this and how did they get it up there?
Via the gully, then Boomstick, perhaps? But what were the mechanics of it all?!
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new world order-
climber
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Oct 16, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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Squampton during a forest fire season, some years ago.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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@ newworldorder: I'm not sure who carved it, but I'm pretty sure matt madaloni(spelling) and some one else hiked it up the backside trail and then rappelled it into place and free solod out! pretty freakin righteous.
you can look it up on the archives of his blog http://climblife.blogspot.com
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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The first clean ascent of U Wall was probably by Len Soet and Phil Kubik, in 1977 or so. Need to check on details.
Jim's "rescue" from the top of Uncle Ben's was one of the first major rescues at the Chief, in 1983. (Steve and Hugh were lowered a rope to finish the third ascent of the Black Dyke, in 1970, when bad weather moved in, but that isn't quite the same thing.) Anyway, it was Monday of the BC day long weekend, and someone heard Jim and Bruce calling from the wall. So we told the RCMP, and they called out a rescue. Most of us hiked to and across Bellygood and Dance Platform, and someone organized a pulley system to get the guys to the ledge, and across to a flat area above the Bulletheads, where Jim was picked up.
Earlier rescue training, about 1967:
Some well known climbers in that photo.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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Anders, what do you mean clean ascent, as in no hammers??
Also I once seen you use the word Fustercluck in a squamishclimbing.com thread.. did you coin that term or had you previously heard it used?
-Luke
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 16, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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Big Jim S in the middle, and Tony Cousins far right are my guesses.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
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Tony Cousins third from left. Gordie Smaill in middle, with helmet on. Big Jim with stubby. Colin and Mab Oloman also in photo.
I'm reasonably sure that Len and Phil used only fixed pitons on their climb, but they're sensible fellows, and I wouldn't be surprised if they had a hammer and pins in their bag, just in case. It's still a clean ascent, IMHO - no pins placed. The real issue, after all, is damage to the rock. Having but not using a hammer and pins is a mere stylistic matter.
When you ask about the origin of the well-known euphemism fustercluck, I wonder if there's a troll around.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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Anders I'm very familiar with the term clusterf*#k but fustercluck was a term I'd never heard of and thank you for introducing it too me. Also you might be the man to ask about the origin on cam hooks, do you know how long they've been around? They freaking kick ASS!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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I'm fairly sure that Moses used cam hooks to acquire his commandments. Graven on stone, you understand. Not that anyone paid much attention, then or later.
It took a while for them to catch on Yosemite - conservative bunch there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 16, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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Also you might be the man to ask about the origin on cam hooks, do you know how long they've been around?
When I'm sober tomorrow I'll try to remember to post the story about Al Steck and the cam hook failure on... sh#t... can't remember... I think it was University Wall.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Ghost-thanks for the beta on borderline-something about a bull and a red flag?
It was really funny. You could climb about nine number grades harder than any of us, and had no trouble with the business of that second pitch -- which was right at the limit of what any of us could climb. And then you fell right where it drops from 11c to about 5.4. Well, okay, it would be 5.4 if you stepped down and right. But if you try to go up from that point, it's probably hard 5.19 or something.
And if I remember, when JB followed you up the thing he didn't enjoy it at all. In fact I think there was cussing. And weighting of the rope.
The whole Borderline experience was interesting. When we scoped it out, and started working the first pitch, we thought we'd found a 5.9/easy 5.10 climb that would soar up the left side of the Badge for pitch after pitch of moderate wonderfulness. When it became clear that the second pitch was going to be hard 11, Susan got pretty discouraged. Not because the route wouldn't be a good one, but because she thought no one would ever climb it.
My view at that time (late 1990s) was that 5.11 would soon be the new 5.9 -- a grade that most competent climbers were comfortable with. Maybe challenged a bit, but still comfortable. There was some argument about this, mostly to do with the fact that I was clearly insane. But history has proven me right, and Borderline has become a deservedly popular climb.
There was a lot of other interesting sh#t associated with that climb. Gear thievery. Almost-slanderous bullshit from a guidebook writer. Relationship dissolution. Squamish climbing at its finest.
Maybe if I get up to Squamish next year you can tow me up it. For old time's sake.
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