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JimT
climber
Munich
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Nov 25, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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Couchmaster/Hummerchine- yep those are the guys, if you think they are expensive you should try getting them over to here, shipping with UPS Express, import duty and sales tax! (We smuggle them over as it happens but it doesn´t make it any less painful).
The water spray is a garden pressure sprayer with a garden irrigation nozzle and regulator tap, have a look on my website under bolt removal.
Jim
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Nov 25, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
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Ah, missed that section on your website that shows how it's done! That is just so freaking cool; I really thought that there was no way at all to remove wedge bolts. Not that I'll ever do it, but fascinating none the less. Thanks again, and your website is amazing. Cool niche you have found yourself, btw...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 26, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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JimT I am certainly not selling anything I do know however that If I rig a rap station with 3/8th" logging chain and hardware store 3/8th quick link that it will be stronger than the rope. I know these things because I have done a whole lot of logging with old climbing rope. The rope breaks allways at the knott. The old retired booty biners and quick links never break.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 28, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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Ok I had too much time on my hands so i did a little test for you guys. Those of you not familar with my testing procdure BAT satnds for Big Assed Tree.
Old rusty 3/8th" quick link cleaned from crap bundle of tat anchor that I replaced with bolts and rings a few years ago.
Rusty quick link has Made in Tiawan stamped on it. Only tightend loosly with finger pressure. I understand they are stronger when fully tightened with a wrench.
Old retired 10.2mm beal rope.
Tie rope to BAT with bowline. rope tied to quick link with figuer 8 and yos finish. quick link clipped to bumper of 86 F150
Loose coil of extra rope on ground so truck may hit terminal velocity before rope comes tight. Good for shock loading.
Mosh truck. Rope breaks at the bowline again. Rope allways breaks at the bowline no matter what the test is.
Conclusion. hardware store quicklinks even when rusty are stronger than climbing rope therefore safe to use as permanent anchors. YMMV
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 29, 2009 - 08:46am PT
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Bump
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Nov 29, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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Shouldn´t that be "twang". :-)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 29, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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It's actually a pretty loud snap when it breaks and you do expect to get something flying through the back window of the cab. Never fails to get me to flynch pretty good.
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pcousar
Sport climber
White Salmon, WA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 19, 2010 - 11:14am PT
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Why do you "replace" them with a ring anchor. Once you saw off the biner end, you have what amounts to a quicklink anchor. Why not just saw off the worn lower biner part and either leave it with the ring that is already there or just put on another quicklink if you feel it's warranted?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 11:23am PT
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I love the truck stunt!
Aawwwesome. I was kinda hoping the bumper would come off though.
Vermont.... sweet.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Feb 19, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Screwlinks and chain wear in the same spot every time. The rings rotate and wear in different spots every time, equating to a MUCH longer lifespan.
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