Best Rap Anchors?

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Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2009 - 11:57pm PT

So, anyone ever use these at the end of chains as a classy way to leave a route?

http://www.usrigging.com/pdf/Clearanceitems.pdf

They're way rated enough. And not too pricey.

I'm thinking about getting some with the eyelets. Anyone else have a good idea. Forget lap links and chain ideas. You have to untie. Not classy.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Nov 18, 2009 - 12:19am PT

Tow hooks (aka Mussy hooks). Larger diameter and cheaper than the items in your post.
http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/bolting.html

Personally, I wouldn't use the word "classy" for bolting hardware. More like "functional".

roy

Social climber

New Zealand -> Santa Barbara

Nov 18, 2009 - 12:22am PT

Well, wouldn't you be untying anyway? To thread the rope for the rappel? Unless it's a Mussy Hook (in an area where they are regularly replaced) it isn't going to last if you lower through it.

Cheers, Roy

Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 12:40am PT

You don't always need to untie I guess is my point, you can clip the anchor and have your partner lower you, or take the midway bite and clip it through and rap (I don't untie until I reach the ground). No threading with 'em.

Clint, those hooks... I've seen em and used em, but the crappy wobblly gate is so low budget it always makes me look twice. Those aren't classy, but functional. You gotta admit, if you saw that locking gate eyelet biner you'd blush. It's sexy.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Nov 18, 2009 - 12:43am PT

Trees.

Gotta keep those sport climbers on their toes, stick with chains.

dmalloy

Trad climber

eastside

Nov 18, 2009 - 12:48am PT

I love and respect Mussy hooks, but I will say that they have at least one signficant drawback - they are hell to unclip, which is not usually an issue, but every once in a while....

papa_eos

Trad climber

conejo valley, california

Nov 18, 2009 - 12:54am PT

I have the same opinion on mussy hooks with the gate being flimsy, but everyone's entitled to their own opinion.

I use these http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststsp.html or ss rings on another page at the same site.

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Nov 18, 2009 - 12:56am PT

I've put two of these bad boys together (side by side, different chain-link) on the ends of a "V" chain set-up on some of my steeper routes--I wouldn't call them the best, but damn bomber for sure. After I closed my climbing gym, I had a bunch of 'em and sure as hill didn't want to pack them around...
Gotta love the stainless bent-gate keylocker:-)

Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 12:59am PT

gotta say three things...

1. Dmalloy... are you the pro surfer in the clan Malloy? Prob not since you're east side but...
2. Carabiners are great... until some hoser takes them. That's the beauty of the eyelet biner. You can attach them with a lap link and they're ON there. Bomber gate. Clipable. And not going anywhere.
3. Papa ... Break Load - 1150Kg - That isn't the same as kn. Those ar rated to 300 lbs. I think. I looked at them on another site. A tad on the light side?

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Nov 18, 2009 - 01:03am PT

Slater, nobody has pilfed the 'biners I put up on the 45 degree overhanging route yet--someone's going to steal them for what, a QD set-up?

Heavy as lead and obvious in their intention...

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Nov 18, 2009 - 01:07am PT

There's a couple of the very top image ones on the first pitch of Serenity crack

Peace

Karl

bhilden

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA

Nov 18, 2009 - 01:10am PT

If you think the flimsy gates on those Mussy Hooks look sketchy don't go climbing in the Dolomites. It is very common practice there to have rappels with just a "U" bent in a steel rod. You place the rope in the bottom of the "U" and hope that your body weight holds it there.

Bruce

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Nov 18, 2009 - 01:25am PT

Bomber don't come cheap...

Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 01:36am PT

Locker, those are like $40, so I think my set up has you beat. But I like 'em. I'm basically trying to do a home grown cheaper yet still rad version. I think i can do it for less than half.
She might not be a 10, but she's an 8 and that's gud enuf for me. I'm a 5.

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Nov 18, 2009 - 02:37am PT

Can someone put some of these beauties at castle rock state park? Our bolts there suck ass...

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 18, 2009 - 02:42am PT

Ram's Horns

kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Nov 18, 2009 - 03:03am PT

2 quick links on each bolt or 1 link and 6 inches of chains per bolt.
Cost: 2 6in 3/8's chains plus 2 quick links... 6 bucks. 4 links 8 bucks.

Well I guess that's my 2 cents worth, err I guess my 6-8 bucks worth. Sh#t the bolt and the hanger are 4 bucks total (each pair 316ss bolts and pagan hangers)

kev

EDIT

But if you want to be supertaco classy just rap some 5/16 webbing (good for one rap)

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Nov 18, 2009 - 08:12am PT

Granted that sport climbs are a diferent beast but for general climbing rap stations I like to keep them a heck of a lot lower impact than big chains with huge hooks. I got a bunch of Raumer ring anchors which are allmost identicle to the Fixe jobs for $4.65ea I also use Metelious rap hangers ocasionaly. Super low impact and will NEVER wear through but hard to clip a bunch of stuff into and may tourqe on the bolts a bit in steeper aplications.
If I am useing chains I go with just 1 quick link and 3 links of 3/8ths logging chain. 3 links of chain, 1 quick link,1 bolt hanger and the rope will pull perfectly from that 3rd link. That set up looks about as clean as it will get for chain anchors but is still not that cheap. Raumer rings are the best in the long run unless you are willing to step up to 1/2 in glue ins.