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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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oops. got mixed up with hand jive. my bad
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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It's B.K. that needs the bike. The new Pac West is beside Home Depot.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 21, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Bruce have you been drinking?
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Apr 21, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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It IS Saturday, KidC.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 21, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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Has any one around here been on humpty dumpty? That yellow sickle is quite appealing, is it really a4?!?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 21, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Jimmy b; the more things change, the more they stay the same :p
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Re: Humpty Dumpty
Go Kid Go for it .... I am certain Maddaloni or someone like Geisler has a more recent ascent and beta - buy Maddaloni's big wall topo guide to the Chief. But if the belay stations up there have not been replaced since the first ascent, you are definitely
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going to die ...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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All three pitches above the roof were difficult BITD before peckers, leadenhosen, and the invention of telephones, internal combustion engines, and of fire.
But its the loose flake high above the belay for the hooking pitch to gain the Humpty Dumpty which was the death pitch.
Hamish broke a big chunk of it off into his lap and had to toss/re-direct it so it didn't slash his station. I had to do a long hook throw to bypass the broken flake on the subsequent ascent. I think the route possibly became harder after Hamishes ascent
The sickle is pretty nasty too, though gf dispatched it like an A1 lead. Maddaloni rates the route overall A2+ but grades the hooking pitch A3 and the sickle A4. That doesn't make sense.
I am sure it's been climbed millions of times by vacationing cali hardmen and the new gen squamish crew in the past 25 years whom are laughing their f*#king asses of at this motley crew posting bullshit from their wheelchairs.
I remember clearly how horrible the rusty leeper button heads Scott used for the belay at the end of the Sickle were, which we bivied on.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Dean and Randy doing their thing on the North Walls
Question for you Dean, did I loan you the negative for the above shot and if so do you still have it ?
I have a killer telephoto evening shot of Public image from a distance on Kodachrome. Needs to be scanned before I die.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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I see Greg is reading his book at the belay again. As soon as you see him in his hammock, you know what's really going on. Multitasking.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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And eating the leaders share of the snacks too. Son of a bitch !!
Edit : I hope nobody's kid's just read this post.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 21, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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I think this is Ron Zalko workout where Dean shot that killer pic of Peter which was posted earlier then removed
Tami ... my bad - regrettably
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 21, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
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I was fortunate to climb the Ron Zalko with Josh (I think). One of the best Squamish pitches. Hope it's still clean.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 21, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Right then. Back to climbing. Not quite on the Upper North Wall, but not that far from it. A fine day out in 96 or 97 or so.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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I'm off to the climbing gym in shanghai where i am stationed for the weekend to make amends....
Best braised lamb shanks I ever had (outside my own house) were in Shanghai. And, now that I think of it, the best venison I've ever had was in Kuala Lumpur, and there ain't a deer within 5,000 km of KL. Nor a lamb anywhere near Shanghai, for that matter. But the Euros running the kitchens in the big Asian hotels know what they're doing.
Uh... wait. That's food, not climbing. I'm bad. Sorry.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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I just got the expression copyright. She owes me five hundred. Frickin hilarious tho.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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Good shots ghost -good thing you guys had some brains on that crux move!
Ha ha. Just shows the difference between on sight and first ascent at places like Squamish and Index. Once you've spent about three zillion hours scrubbing, you are intimately familiar with every crystal on the entire climb, and there are no hidden holds or mystery moves.
It was funny watching you lead that rig. You, being about eight number grades better than any of us, cruised through the hard part and then fell on a move that's probably 10a if you've been there before. I also seem to recall that Mr. Brennan was not having the best day on rock he'd ever had. Substantial amount of cursing and general "this is a bunch of shit" as he followed you on that pitch.
And as to the first ascent of the pitch, I'm still bummed. On the day we declared it clean enough to climb, we drew straws to see who would get first shot. (Yeah, real straws. From a whisk broom we were using to get rid of dust and dirt.) I won, and was totally psyched. But when I started racking up, Eric and Susan looked at me like I was an idiot. "You want to do it now?"
Being already well into my dotage, I had no clue what they were talking about. I'd won the draw, why wouldn't I want to get on it?
"Because the sun just came onto it, and it's gotta be 90 f*#king degrees."
"So?"
"So you are going to grease off the hard part. There's no way you can stick to it when it's this hot."
Of course I knew better and launched into it. And of course they were right, and I took a huge whipper off the bit below the roof when my rubber wouldn't stick to the blistering hot rock and totally trashed my elbow crashing into the corner below. I tried again anyway, and only slit a finger open when I fell, but that was enough to send me home for the day.
Eric, who had drawn the second-shortest straw, totally styled it in the cool of the following morning. And I've hated him ever since.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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That's so funny cause I think I got sandbagged on that pitch too. From/with Greg. All I can remember is him telling me it was five ten up there, not too bad. Then I recall posing away in the undercling mode, thinking it was pretty tough, feeling away for some holds to get me through. Sure is a whole lot nicer than going the other way to that ledge. Nice route.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 22, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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For long routes we'd have to leave little Eddie at the base. He was only 20 pounds but there was no way we were squeezing him in the pack and he'd just be a liability at the belays.
One day a long time ago, before there was a Habrich gondola, we were climbing Freeway and Eddie was guarding the base. I'd always leave him with food, water, and one of my sweaters to lounge on. There was no way I'd ever tie him up just in case a bigger animal, which meant every other animal, showed up. He was always very good and I'd usually yell down to him from the first few pitches, just to assure him I'd be there, eventually.
We were somewhere in that roofy area, maybe two thirds of the way up, and I had long since lost sight of the little Yapper down at the base. I was staring down at the parking lot next to the highway and I could just make out a little black dot running around, checking out all the cars. I was instantly stressed out and mentioned to whoever I was with that we were about to put it in overdrive, because I had to get down there before someone ran over, or ran off with, my dearest Friend.
One can only climb those pitches so fast and fortunately we'd been there before, lots. We hit the top, ran down the trail and bolted out to the parking lot.
There were loads of vehicles all over the place and no sign of the rat-killer (in his own mind). Oh, I was losing my mind; where could he be? Maybe he motored back up to the base where his stash of kibbles were.
Silly me, he'd been cruising around the lot, trying to beg food off anyone willing. I finally found him, hanging out with some good looking girl in the back of her pick up, eating her food; big smile on both their faces.
When I called him he didn't want to come and the girl questioned me a little as to make sure I had the right dog. She was sad to see her new buddy get repo'd.
We hiked up to the base to retrieve his nest and Eddie was doing his "independant-tough-guy" trot the whole way.
Sorry, that turned into a dog story more than a rock story. It's also my answer to Ryan, who was asking for five classic squamish routes. It's more than five pitches but that's my reccomendation. Truly a classic Squamish route, complete with gear placements, exposure, falcons, ravens, and some outstanding belay ledges in beautiful locations.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 22, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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@hamish; Eddie sure sounds like he was a great pal, you mentioned him up thread when you were talking about the FA of heat wave, did you say he somehow got to the base of the buttress or something... If so how. Also what's your opinion on the yellow sickle?
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