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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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That's funny Ryand. I was a mountain biker at first too. My girlfriend at the time wanted me to go climbing with her, and took me in sneakers which sucked.
Then after realizing a hard tail was not as much fun in the park as well as breaking tons of expensive parts i gave into the darkside also and never looked back. I've got snowboarding and sledding to get my speed fix on.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Public Image - full disclosure :
Randy Atkinson and myself rap bolted the upper chimney stations and the overhanging off width pitch protection by hand drilling after taking all necessary safety measures at Indica Point. It was the wildest first descent I have ever done. Climbed the North North Arete then 3 late afternoon raps from Indica Point down to land on Astro ledge in the dark with no headlamps. My drill was a home made unit my grandfather created on the lathe in his garage for me. It used two set screws to hold a modified metal drilling bit in place. I still have the manky thing. Then they did the first ascent without me. I was fine with not having to go back and climb it as I knew first hand how totally terrifying and heinously exposed the overhanging off width pitch was.
Kill me now for being a rap bolter...
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MH2
climber
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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That Public Image picture is scary. No swami or knee pads for that guy. His right arm seems to be fully extended inside the crack but I can't quite see what its doing.
Beers Are Not Enough is a gem. Of the dozens of times I'd been to Pet Wall it never crossed my mind but last year I actually saw it, as if for the first time, and there it was in the guidebook, too!
The start was hard.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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Rule #1-Never assume anything.Don't ask me how those routes were established; I wasn't in on any of them. They are World Class pitches in my opinion and I had some great experiences leading many of them.
Rule #2, unless you're a trustfunder, stay away from the bikepark. Who needs all those crowds anyway? World class stuff right here in Squampton, B.C.. And Goldbridge, Pemberton, Whistler(non-hill), North-Shore,Rossland, Nelson, and probably any other town in B.C. with a forest out the back. Best part about that sport.... you don't need the one big rock. Any old chunk of B.C. will do. Just add volunteer labour.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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How many times did I belay you on the ultra run out No Name road Hamish?
It was one of your favourites.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Mucho. I'd actually lived on No Name Rd. and I think the Chief established one of the best face pitches in Squamish when he put that route together. Five Star.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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I agree, one of the best face climbs out there no name rd is, although I never had the chance to do it when it was a RP battle. A bit of everything on that one, long, perfect rock, beautiful top out- so classic!
Hamish, I would be so humbled if you could provide me a ticklist of 5 squamish climbs to do this summer that you would consider must-dos for the many aspiring hard man on this thread who had the misfortune of being born & brought into climbing during a time which being a pussy was the standard & accepted ethic- aka the supertoprope era. Grade & style irrelevant, just the 5 that you remember from BITD that you think are 5 stars. Yes, let the sandbagging begin. Much thanks in advance. Same goes for any of you Squamish OG's that have a top 5 that you think could teach the new guard a thing or two and would help us all harden up a bit!
Edit: Re: rule #1- I forgot that the only fair place to make assumptions around here is on the gondola thread! Thanks for keeping me in check. Assume = (make an)ASS (out of) U (and) ME. Due to mine & the many other assumptions happening there i need a break from that thread! This place is way more fun! Re: Rule #2, I did all kinds of mtn biking, seeing as I lived in Whis @ the time, the bike park was the easiest & most available drug for most days, not too busy back then either. If I had a trust fund I would still be there with 29" rims & 12" of travel on the front & back!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Squamish Old Guys. I love it. Boy it sure happened fast. One minute you're living in a cave at the base of the Chief, still 6 years till you get to go to the bar with ALL the other climbers. Next minute you're cranking the woodstove up to 90 degrees and reading Squamish Old Guy on your laptop, wondering if you have enough stuff to make your kid's lunch in the morning. Crazy.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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Right side of the pillar is pretty classic. :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Hahaha Hamish! The acronym O.G. Stands for original gangster! If you are unaware of that term however then I suppose your definition will do, thanks for the laughs!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Sack it up for Merci Me bro
Bellygood in the rain without the chain
Hooking pitch on Humpty Dumpty
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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Ohhhh Agonal, definitely fell off that one. You are right Bruce, may be the best pitch down there. Thanks for the responses OG's!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2012 - 01:43am PT
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OG= Original Gangsters!!! Thanks for comin out!
edit I know ryand said it too.
Milk Run is sweet so is the Pillar (right) gotta do both in style this year. Agonal looks pretty awesome.
So does right wing! Looked down it last year after we did birds.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 18, 2012 - 09:07am PT
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How can you have a list of great Squamish must-dos that does not include a slab route?
I don't know which one you'd choose, but surely there should be one.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 18, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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More hardman to do list pitches Dean Hart's uber classic "Smell of ¥€¤ %$@#/() & "Alien £€¢ #@/$+ %".
Also Kettman & Hart's "Poltergeist ll"
Edited: for the children
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 09:40am PT
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Phew, so happy to see I'm still a kid. I knew that seemed way to fast.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 10:08am PT
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I meant the other Bruce.
I trust Squamish Bruce is about to pour some Special Kay into his bowl, or on the tram site, cause my coffee is perking and I hate to drink it alone. Surely you have a comment about that beautiful looking tram with the Atlantic (or Indian) Ocean and the mountains? That gondola rotates in circles as it moves, so everyone gets the view. There's some sweet engineering!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Ya I guess. But if you keep everyone sidetracked with your outstanding humour, one day we'll look over and there will be a tram cruising up the slope.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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I knew you were one of the smart ones.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 18, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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First of all there's nothing Great about me, just a typical Squamite. Secondly, I'm trusting they'll want to tap the bike market and therefore get some hooks installed. Maybe a long shot but there are a lot of bikers out there, and more starting all the time.
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