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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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That Drake buttress is mind blowing. Where's all the John Howe photos and stories of the epic sh#t he has done.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:06am PT
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ooohhh. Bump for that Perry! and Dean Hart welcome sir, we welcome stories you might want to share.
Saw someone on Sixty-Nine 13b/c the other day at Murrin
He danced up the thing it was awesome.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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I recall climbing the grand with Dean one hot summer day, several generations ago. We made it to the top of the pillar and we were melting from the heat. Too hot to continue,sweating whatever fluid might have been left in us, we just had to get out of the sun. Unfortunately we only had one rope.
Dean, the big guy with the big brain, figures he'll rap down the single line to the base of the pillar, placing the odd cam as he goes. And I do mean odd as in sparse; we wouldn't have had many in that size range. Then I can downclimb the pitch, on belay, yanking out the gear on my way by. Oh ya, sounds exciting, especially in the 38 degree heatwave.
In those days there were still two terrible quarter inch bolts about half way up the pitch. Unfortunately they were about 6 or 8 feet apart. My idea was to tie them together and get Dean to test the hell out of them from down at the belay, while I was clipped to some real gear, beside the bolts. If Dean couldn't bust them, that would be my rap anchor.
Couple of rocket-scientists up there, melting away.
That was so long ago I can't remember which option we went with but both of us are here, so something worked.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Somewhere under the ghetto-blaster and the hilti are some xxl quads; somebody get that man a 29er.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Ya get used to it Bruce. Make sure they're not pushed up too close to your face for the fogging aspect. As for the chalk dust and such, I almost always wear a ball cap to keep the glare off the glasses. Without it, all you notice is the dust specks on your lenses. I even wear one of those stretchy little runners ball caps under my helmet when it's sunny to keep the glare down.
Wait a minute..... You mean to say that if I finally get the Lasik surgery that I'll be climbing three letter grades harder? Sign me up!
K
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Dean, one thing I've always wondered about. How is it that you and Randy always managed to find routes that required massive spans to do the moves?
Good question Bruce. Dean, respectfully- how in the hell do you do True Love at Crag X???
Is it really a reach move?? Such a nice climb but that crux is Reach-diculous!
Cool Photo Mike, that's Ben, same fella i posted a pic of on Skydancing a ways back, he pisses up all types of everything.
Speaking of Pet wall, when i was there the other day, lowering off No Name Road, i noticed that someone was cleaning out the corner & face to the right, i looked in my book & i think it's called "beers are not enough". FA credit was to one Bruce Kay, maybe there is a story about that one someone here would like to tell??
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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It was a Kon Kraft FA at A2 or something.
In case anyone is interested, I re-connected with Konrad a year or so ago. He's living in Bellingham these days. Had some major heart surgery, but was recovering when I last talked to him.
He sometimes lurks here, so anyone who remembers him can give a shout out.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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You're right, I'll cool it on the 29er talk. Climbing thread, sorry.
65% of (adventurist) climbers will eventually switch to mountain biking, and once they have several years under their belts, they'll get one with 29" wheels.
That's my take on it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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65% of climbers will eventually switch to mountain biking, and once they have several years under their belts, they'll get one with 29" wheels.
That may be true, but what you're forgetting is that as those climbers-turned-mountain-bikers age, they exhibit two traits:
1) Fear of shattering their aged and increasingly fragile bodies in the crashes that used to seem like no big deal, which leads them to switch back to climbing. And then...
2) Finding out that climbing is scarier than it used to be, and deciding to spend most of their climbing time either on a top-rope or, better still, on Supertopo.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Is that Alaska Highway, the first photo Dean? Would be cool to hear some stories of doing that wall. I think some of the most amazing pitches in Squamish are on the Northern Lights. Got any pics of the unduro layback corner on it? That thing is a beauty.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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I'm going with Public Image
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Super toprope
ROFLMAO! (Rolling on the the floor laughing my ass off)
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Public Image
From National Geographic
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Cool pics Dean!
Thanks for that Hoser.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Wow, that's one of the best pics. I've seen.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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A close up of Ben on Sixty-Nine for Ryand
Agreed. The Public Image shot is stunning
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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That is such a great pic. You don't see many of Public Image around, cuz everyone is too scared to do it. More North Wall climb pics and stories please.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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What's that sick looking flake to the left of it? Not Visionquest is it?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 17, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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I was going to post some stupid sh#t about the Smoke Bluffs, but when I saw the Public Image photo I decided to just turn around and crawl out through the space under the door.
Kon and I wandered out onto Astro Ledge one day to see what all the North Wall fuss was about. Pretty much peed my pants in fear looking up at those climbs, and scurried back home.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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That Public image shot is rad! Heard it has been recleaned in the past year or so as well as the anchors replaced.
Funny story re: Beers are not enough Bruce, nothing so fun as smearing mud in the rain. Pretty cool that was the first line on the wall, looking forward to climbing it in its new state.
Hamish, is it true that all those Pet wall classics were rap bolted? I have always wondered about the history of that cliff as it is probably my favorite single pitch crag around & always assumed that based on the distance between bolts on many of the sport climbs that they were done ground up. Must have been some serious work to develop that place, anyone have any "before" photos of pet wall???
Thanks for the tales & pics everyone!
Ps I used to mountain bike for years, it was fun as hell but definitely not a dirtbag sport! Bikes are money pits! One summer about 7 or 8 yrs ago while my rear shock was away on warranty I was lucky enough to get into climbing, long story short I did not get my shock back for almost 3 months at which point The bike park was closed & i realized that I hadn't spent a cent on broken climbing gear, sold my bike & that was it. Cant say i miss it too much, however I must confess that with the golden age of Squamish trail building happening right now it would be fun to have a x-country bike to work the cardio & adrenaline on rainy days, can't see it ever replacing climbing though. Climbing is just so......hard. 29" rims sound fun....
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