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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 14, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Hamie- Did you guys leave a piece of goldline on the tree at the top of YPLS for an anchor? If so it's still there. Luke has pics.
That doesn't sound like us, unless we were desperate (why cut a good rope?). H might remember differently. We tended to use 1" tubular nylon or 1/4" laid nylon rope for rap slings.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Something @ funarama, don't know any of the names there though
Edit: or lumberland
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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Ryan D gets the crag.. surprised that the local specter hasn't caught on yet.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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Smart guy.
Bit of an understatement, that.
Ryan D gets the crag.. surprised that the local specter hasn't caught on yet.
Hmmm. I know we cleaned and climbed a bunch of stuff on what is now called Funorama, but I don't remember much detail. It was at a time when anybody who was willing to spend twenty minutes pushing through a bit of bush could discover a new crag in the Bluffs, and we had a lot of fun. But Funorama was kind of at the end of that period and I think we were all burning out. I remember working on something at the right-hand end with Dave Jones. And I think something at the left end -- probably also with DJ. And although I couldn't swear to it in court, I am certain that Raymond Parker would have been just as involved. And maybe Dick Mitten.
 goes to the fridge for another glass of stout --
Ah. One thing I think I remember, is that the climb at the left end had a really scary exit move (for its grade), until you learned that there was a secret hold.
Do I win a prize?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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I'd trade my left nut for new length of two inch tubular swami
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Do I win a prize?
Sure, I'll buy you a rail ale at the Howe Sound, lemme know when.
It's the right one you did with Dave Jones. First Class 5.8 according to KM.
I did it the other day for the first time and found it to be no slouch! Fun route.
Oh ya thanks for the beta.. heard that Funarama had an interesting top-out.
Edit Or whatever other beer you might choose.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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Hey that ones pretty fun, First class eh? Tough to know the names with all the new routes up there.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Apr 15, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Just happened to be up there today revisiting the past. Heavy did a stellar job creating a klettergarden there, even bumped into a few characters from the Bellingham climbing community.
Funarama was my first new route and seems to be still popular. I would have put a bolt at the top spicy section, but back then I was too poor to afford such luxuries and fiddling RPs seemed to work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 02:46am PT
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Apparently the spicy section is what makes the climb according to Luke and Kyle.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 15, 2012 - 03:44am PT
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Thanks Big Mike!
Spice is nice.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 15, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Fun o Rama kicks butt, quality cracks and stellar friction, and low angle so I don't get scared
Far across the American boarder I pull out my sleeping bag and down jacket out of my
compression sack for the first time since cannabis wall and what do I find in my breast pocket, two and a half doobies :p.
Bump for squamish weed in Cali, let's hope BMACD does tip off the park rangers. He already tried to set me up on indica ledge, I spotted some RCMP up there patrolling the area, so I fled the country.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 15, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Holy snapping arseholes, Batman, there's thirty-seven routes up there now! On a cliff that we figured was crowded with half a dozen.
F*#k. How can anyone complain about a gondola up from the gravel pit when there are almost forty climbs on a crag as tiny as funorama? Sounds like a great place to go with a hundred or so of your closest climbing buddies for a slice of the Squamish Climbing Experience. If you don't have the right gear for whatever climb you're on, just reach a foot or two to the right or left and snag something from the guy who's climbing beside you.
Just to put this in perspective, Mari and I went out today to a crag we started developing down here (we live in Seattle now) a couple of years ago. It's three times as high and ten times as long as funorama, and it's now got maybe a dozen routes. All stellar. We try to get people to join the fun, but 95% of them just get in line for the routes on the Index Lower Town Wall, and the 5% that are willing to look beyond that have so much undeveloped rock to play on that we hardly ever see each other.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 16, 2012 - 08:57am PT
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Funarama is the name of a strip club in Vegas Rolf, you're busted.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 16, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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Hey, Dean is writing in. Now we're talking; he's got some good stories.
I was driving through some town in central california about 40 years ago when I spotted these two tall guys hopping a fence and walking quickly to their car. They were pretty wet.
It was Ed Spat and D.H.; it was so hot they had to take a break from driving and poach a dip in some hotel's pool. Frost-Backs, so funny. Valley-ho after that.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 16, 2012 - 10:27am PT
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Well he's been here and done that in Squampton. Freeway, North walls; massive effort from those tall guys with the lycra.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Well he's been here and done that in Squampton. Freeway, North walls; massive effort from those tall guys with the lycra.
When they finished The Calling, I asked if they would write something for the Canadian Alpine Journal. Which they did. And which I ran as one of the lead stories for the year.
John Howe gave me serious sh#t for that. How could I possibly have given major space to some stupid climbs on the North Wall and ignored the fact that the real future of Squamish climbing was taking place on Pet Wall.
As to their fashion sense, what can you say? Fortunately the CAJ in those days was black & white, and the only pictures they had were poor-quality 4 x 5 inch prints. So the lycra didn't show up all that well.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:05am PT
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Pet Wall; classic. You mean the crag where the first ascensionists got the routes wired on top rope, then rap-bolted the pitches with good size runouts and quality gear placements? Don't get me wrong, those routes were great...tough on the body and on the mind. Funny thing is that as time went on and the pioneers aged, all these extra bolts started showing up on the routes. And that was well after the climbs had seen multiple on-sight flashes. Strange but true.
I suppose I need to make it VERY clear that I'm not slagging anyone; these guys are all my friends and I have the utmost respect for all of them.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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John was just pissed about the lycra. He's a logger at heart.
Yeah, I know. He got caught up in the fun at Pet Wall, and thought it deserved more love. But I never believed his heart was in it. I can remember one trip into Mt Sir Frances Drake with Tami, Greg Foweraker and Don Serl. From high up there we were looking down into the next valley at something John had done the year before, and all we could do was bow down in admiration. He and Blake Robinson had crashed in from beach, climbed the North Buttress on Needle Peak, and then fought their way back out again. That has to be one of the gnarliest things ever done by a Squamish climber, and yet he ragged on me for not seeing the importance of Pet Wall.
Look at this thing, and imagine the guy who climbed it telling me that the develpments at Pet Wall were more significant than the developments on the North wall.
Edit: I think the vertical gain on the buttress is over 4,000 ft, and what you can't see in the picture is the heinous approach. We got a perfect view of it from the helicopter on the way in, and it did not look like fun. Well, maybe fun in the sense of "it don't have to be fun, to be fun," but it was pure coastal jungle.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Would be cool to hear about the evolution of Pet Wall, how it changed from crazy run out RP wiggle battles into what it is today. Who got pissed off? Fist fights? Loggers vs. Lycra?
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