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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 24, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Richard Hallman
December 14 · Edited ·
Stand-up Paddleboarding Jaws, Hawaii
Photograph by Richard Hallman
Getting the Shot
“Things at Jaws happen so fast, I wasn't sure it was even Kai taking off on the wave until my Skidoo driver Nano pointed and said, ‘Kai Lenny,’ ” recalls surf photographer Richard Hallman. “I focused my attention on the wave because I knew he was riding stand-up and even though the wave was small for Jaws, it was big for stand-up. He had a spectacular air drop.”
Lenny dropped into the wave, and Hallman continued to photograph the 20-foot ride until Lenny fell. “I knew right away with the few last frames in my camera that it was a particularly bad fall. My biggest concern at this point was his safety.”
Rescue Jet Skis rushed to help when Lenny resurfaced, and Hallman noticed Lenny’s foot was bleeding. “I immediately took a photo with my 70-200mm zoom camera—the zoom allowed me to see the severity of the cut. My experience as a former trauma nurse told me that this was a particularly bad cut,” he says.
“Nothing about big waves is routine. I think that is the why big-waving surfing is such a draw for me," Hallman continues. "It is daunting and challenging as a surfer and as a photographer. It truly is otherworldly to be pressed against the edge of so much energy and to watch these modern-day gladiators drop down these mountains of water.”
Special Thanx to Nano and DK Walsh (Skullbase) for helping with water support and special Thanx to Kai Lenny (Heal up fast Bro
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 24, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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O Man, when I said surfing bigger waves was easier I sure didn't mean THAT much bigger!
Gnarly.
Mele Kalikimaka!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 24, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Dec 25, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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Zuma
up and close with this wave!
happy holiday's!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 25, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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We wave sailed in my back yard till almost dark yesterday.
I must admit that I was a bit timid in that the larger sets were in the 25' range and they had up to five waves in the sets. I was always looking over my shoulder and kicking out early most of the time. Due to the nearly 20 second interval there was plenty of time between sets but ya just didn't want to screw up by taking one of the early bombs and get clobbered by the following monsters. There was some blood and broken gear but everyone made it back in. We then gathered at some friends house and had burgers and wine and talked story for a while. It was a great Christmas Eve 2013. It's supposed to be bigger today. Game On!
Merry Christmas everyone!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 28, 2013 - 04:31am PT
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God Jul!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Dec 31, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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We have had no shortage of waves here on the north shore but we have also had a pesky onshore wind turning the ocean into a mixed up mess. I guess we are spoiled with all the great conditions that we have had so far this winter season.
Yeah Studly, Martin Lenny is a great guy. I see Martin, Kai,and Ridge quite often. They're a great family!
>North shores – A lower medium northwest swell arriving Thursday, sticking around through Friday morning. The surf will peak out Thursday in the 2-3+(Hawaiian) range. A larger northwest swell will arrive during the day Friday into Saturday. A new north swell will arrive Sunday…followed by another new NW swell by Monday into Tuesday. Back to back swells, as is classic during this height of the winter surf season…or at least the beginning.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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zuma!
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Does climbing have a movie equivalent to Runman 69?
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Got six days of pinner glassy waves after four perfect days in Josh.
Two great tastes that go great together.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Drljefe, that is awesome, but my heart is breaking.
I want to do that exact trip so bad, but circumstance seems to forbid it.
Every trip I plan gets derailed BIG TIME.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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It'll happen and will be all the sweeter.
And let me tell you, there is nothing like a backlit green wall bending and growing before you.
Uncontested glassy point surf, aquarium like clarity, and friends to stare at the horizon with.
On this trip I did a route off the couch that I was pretty proud of but it didn't even compare to that first bottom turn and racing down the line on a measly waist high perfect wave.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Since moving to Arizona, the closest I've got to surfing (ha!) is a trip down to Rocky Point.
I keep planning to take a week off, and head to San Diego, buy a $100 beater longboard project, surf a few days, and then hit up Joshua Tree on the way back home, and give my rekindled climbing dreams a jump start.
Then when I get home, restore the board and be up and running agin.
I've even scheduled time off twice, only to have the trip evaporate before it started... This is particularly poignant, as this has happened a third time... I have all next week off, but the $$ have blown to the winds.
In Oregon, it was so damp and cold that building boards and doing major repairs was a real pain. I once re-glassed a 7'10" semi gun, but we got hit with a cold snap and torrential rain. I couldn't get the garage warm enough, and the resin never kicked. In the spring I had to basically scrub the whole board with acetone, lay it in the sun, and re-do it.
I saw an old bashed up Bing on San Diego cl for $200. Sigh....
Someday soon.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Plus, lets talk about wave size for a moment...
The biggies get all the pics and the ooh's and awww's.
But the days I remember most were waist to head and glassy, combed, just endless waves rolling in.
I like seeing the big wave pics, but it's like another sport, another world. Thats why I always like watching Joel Tudor videos... he surfs all sorts of waves on all sorts of boards. For the average mainland schmoe, the likely-hood of a knee to thigh high day is pretty high.
we had this sort of thrown-together group in Oregon, The North Pacific Log Club. A couple times we picked a nice swell, the interval was double the swell height, and had a campout. Everybody brought their board down and threw it on the beach. You could just swap and try boards to your hearts content. Most were old and funky... longboards of every description and fin configuration, old fish shapes, and 7' singlefins with rails you could cut your hand on.. It was a blast. No leashes either! I had a few Pina Coladas and stayed out until well after the moon was up. It was probably my funnest day surfing, and there wasn't a wave taller than me probably.
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