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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
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From the sublime to the scatalogical in only an hour. I might have known it.
As for BK, I subscribe to Groucho Marx' maxim, and would never belong to any club that would have me for a member. That's the theory, anyway. The nice people living in Squamish put up with me on FOSC.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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Well, let's see. There's Colon. There's the Butt Face. There's Colonoscopy. Hot Cherry Bendover. What other scatological treasures lie hidden at Squamish?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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Exploring Uranus
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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You guys are drifting, by the way.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 10, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Just a quick question...does anyone know if Lost at Sea has had any repeats?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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You guys are drifting, by the way.
Yeah, well, it's all Anders' fault. If he hadn't started talking about how he discovered his colon we wouldn't have...
Never mind. Here's something to get us back on the right trail.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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No, Greg, I think it's a bit north of Lembert Dome.
Come on, identify this Squamish climb and I'll buy you a coffee and doughnut on your next visit to Seattle.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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Ha! The sign of a good question is when people who pretend to be knowledgeable resort to "pointless question" to disguise their ignorance.
No latte for you!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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Okay, just because you can't tell one featureless slab from another doesn't mean you're a total loser. Here's a chance to prove that you know at least something about Squamish...
No bullshit about pointless slabs this time. Show us that you know Squamish.
Edit: Jim, I live in Seattle. You ask for a "low-fat organic doughnut" at my local caffeine & sugar joint and they'll throw you out the door.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Hey Ghost! Thanks for the positive words about CC. I think it would have seen more traffic with a different name. Hopefully it stays clean.
Good to read that some of you guys were up on YPLS. I was surprised to hear it was wet--bone dry in the fall. Glenn and I were alternating leads, and the squeeze was my turn. Glenn could have led it just as well, and likely faster too. Looking forward to seeing some pix, esp of Big Mike in extremis.
The shots of Europa/CC were great, thanks for that.
I like the name SOCK for your group. You could use the classic old 'Laugh In' line of "Sock it to me!" as your motto. Blank stares all around..... Perhaps since a little French technique was noted, Le SOCK would be better. Or the Dr. Zeuss approach: Yank on Mank Club.
Just kiddin'.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I think that first pic. is that tough little bluff route, off to the right of short people. I think my chances are 1 in 10.
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Pakdong
climber
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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sunblessed
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Its that dank crack up in the valley of sh#t piled higher. now cough up that latte
Hmmm. The judges are offering mixed opinions on that answer, but as the Senior Judge, I'll cast my deciding vote (with some reservations) in your favor. Show up at Top Pot Doughnuts on 5th just North of Lenora tomorrow morning, and the latte is yours.
Or, since a real Seattle coffee would probably put you in hospital, you could accept the alternate prize of a guided trip to a nearby crag that is in absolutely no danger of having a gondola built within 50 km.
We've got about a dozen routes on this thing so far. Maybe some of you Squamish freaks should come down and see what non-urban climbing is about.
Edit: No, Hamish, that slab is not in the Little Smoke Bluffs. In fact it's nowhere near the Smoke Bluffs.
Double Edit: Pakdong is wrong, too. Though not as wrong as Mr. Fraser
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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will guns be involved?
I think we've solved the guns problem. But for a while there, the most exciting part of climbing on that crag was the descent through Redneckville. I've actually got no problem with guns. My problem is when rednecks with guns get really drunk and roar around in their ORVs blasting everything in sight.
Not that they weren't nice guys. Some of them were even curious about what we were doing "up there." Still, it was a bit weird to have to transition a war zone on our way home from a day of climbing.
But, as I said, I think the gun problem has been resolved and even a Canadian could visit that wall without having a panic attack.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Back on the chimney thing, I spent at least 45 minutes crammed into that chimney on Millennium Falcon just below Bellygood last fall. Unfortunately for me, the guy I was climbing with failed to mention the guidebook saying, 'if you enter the chimney, you will have a very hard time getting out.'
That was fun. Not. Still got the onsight though......
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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First pic: ?????
Second pic is The Zip
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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next question, before I accept: Is that really granite or is it decomposing sandstone masquerading as the cookie cliff?
No, it's the real thing. Granite as good as granite gets. Scale is roughly similar to the Upper Town Wall at Index -- routes up to five pitches -- and actually closer to Seattle than Index is. It has enough of an approach to keep the hordes away, but nothing really serious. 20 minutes driving a good logging road, and a 45 minute hike.
The rock is astoundingly good, and the potential for more high-quality routes is... well, let me just say that the potential is so amazing that I wish I were three or four decades younger. I'll start a new thread about it, but it really is an incredible crag.
We thought we'd lost it a couple of years ago when DNR shut down access due to watershed damage caused by the ORV crowd, but the rest of the outdoor community, including climbers, worked with the govt and the logging company that has the rights below the wall, and for once common sense won the day. Which is to say that the one group that was doing the damage {the off-roaders) have been banned, while others have regained access.
So set aside some days in August or September, and we'll take you in.
Or, if that's too real, come down tomorrow morning and I'll buy you a doughnut and a coffee.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 11, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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Time to pack it in for the night, but I'll leave you with one more shot of the wall we've been playing on for the last few years. Click on the pic, and blow it up, and you'll see our friend Shanon pretty much dead center.
It's not the Himalaya, but it's a bit less of an urban experience than Squamish. Some of you ought to come down and check it out.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 11, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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-Radical looking crag you got down there mr ghost!
HM or Nails; Did you guys swing leads on YPLS FREEclimbing it or was there aid involve? What did you guys put in for pro @ the wide before the squeeze??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Spat me out indeed.
Ghost- not sure about the first one either, but the second one looks alot like, "Just Blessed" in the Valley of shadi? I have never ventured in there but that one has been on my ticklist for a long time.
Next hot spell I'm gonna go check it out. I thought of it immediatly but Bruce reminded me of the name.
Your new crag looks amazing indeed. I intend to get to Index this summer so perhaps a little side trip?
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