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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 29, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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wow what a thread...why fill up the front page with political garbage when threads like this exist! I read a bit about this face in Steve House's book. Although I do not think I will ever be such a quality climber like these guys, at some point I will at least go over there and see this awesome face with own eyes.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 10, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Pays to remember that the "stroll" when this climb was first done didn't includes hut half way in.
There is a reason the hole where N twin sits is still considered the "black hole".
It would seem that with all the attempts and even the few successes..the "black hole" retains its reputation.
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Jan 10, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Agree with RDB on this one. Possibly one of the hardest alpine wall in North America. The number of ascents is a testament to just how hard it is to climb.
The other peak I think is a "black hole" is the north face of the Jannu.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 16, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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radness bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Bump for Chris and George...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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One of these days I hope to find the topo George made for me. I'm sure it's around here, probably tucked in a book.
Trust me, it isn't in the appropriate guide book.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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I'm not much into collecting climbing memorabilia, but that topo is something I'd make an exception for.
N. Face N Twin is a strong contender for the finest climb ever done in North America.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
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Best thread ever? You've got stellar firsthand accounts from several different FA parties, incredible photos, an absolutely badass mountain face, does it get any better? This is what Supertopo SHOULD be about!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
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is it possible to romp around there alone shooting photos of the faces, or do the glaciers and terrain make solo travel inadvisable? haven't been up there, so I don't really know what to expect
edit: happy to "Norman Clyde fourth class" it, just don't want to fall into a crevasse or walk off a cornice
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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Dig Reilly, Dig!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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Chris recently informed me that I had left out the fourth and fifth pages now posted from the OP.
I wonder if George ever recovered this singular and classic helmet which famously went missing for a while.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 16, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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Just climbed with George this afternoon. Among other things, we did Handcracker on the West Ridge at Eldorado. Now even though BOTH of us had done it about a year ago, between the two of us we missed the middle two pitches, ascending crappy gullies instead. In our defense, the wind was fierce and it was hard to hear (and, in retrospect I'm thinking, hard to think). Got me to "thinking" what if it was hard to hear AND we had been up there for 4 days AND we were on a route that had never been done before and that we might be lost on AND it was cold and snowy AND we were running out of food AND it was way harder AND it was frigging the North Face Of North Twin or something. But then I remembered, I only do rock climbing and I still need to get some shopping done before dinner with the wife.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Ask George if he ever got his helmet back! I never heard the ending of that story.
And while you are at it, get him to chime in.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Feb 16, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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Moonflower (to the summit) wasn't a shabby climb, but I'd agree that Loew-Jones is probably the highwater mark of North American alpinsm
edit: maybe Waterman in Alaska. Crazy-super-fukkd-up-gonzo. Wow.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 16, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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George is certainly aware of Supertopo but is not inclined to spray in any way (unlike me). I think that anything he could say would sound like spraying to him, so he's not likely to do it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Can't keep a fella from trying...and I have been with George.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 16, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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Not in the biblical sense I hope.
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nah000
Mountain climber
canuckistan
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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while there are other contenders, [based on my reading and mental speculation, the moose's tooth, dance of the woo li masters, stump/bridwell, 1981, would be the one i'd make a case for], the reason why it's hard to not see the north face of north twin as a pinnacle of north american alpinism, is the point in history that it was climbed.
1974.
here we are almost 40 years later and the face, as a whole, has still only been climbed to completion three times. and so in 2013 these discussions are still based on first hand accounts that, to my knowledge, number in the single digits. [that's including the published partial attempts.]
and so while there is a list of late 70's / early 80's alaskan climbs that are likely of comparable difficulty/commitment/duration, like conrad kain's climbs of the 1910's, george lowe's climbs of the 70's in general [and the nf of nt in particular] were definitely way out there relative to the time that he climbed in.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:40am PT
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Most people head up After Six with a bigger rack than what those guys started with.
What did they finish with, a dozen pieces?
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