Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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In the annals of North American climbing history few, if any, adventures rival this one! One look at this huge wall defines big, bold and badass, Canadian Rockies style. Truly a cut above anything else done at the time in terms of commitment and style.
Beyond inspiring, this is pure alpinism. The real deal anywhere, any time.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jun 27, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Back in the early 60s in the Valley, Ed Cooper (FA Dihedral Wall) mentioned the North Face of North Twin. Ambitious as he was, he wanted no part of it. He said that if anyone was going to try it, he would do the (long) hike in just to watch. He said "It could kill 50 people before it was ever climbed".
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 27, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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when I reached the shoulder I glanced over at our face.................I was impressed
That is the best
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jun 27, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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I truly envied Chris and George their amazing experience on this great face.
-JelloInTheRockies
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
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Jeff- do you recall what George had to say about the experience after it was done? Not very many climbers could relate to that particular adventure as peers outside the Lowe clan, I wouldn't imagine.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 27, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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George is now 65 and still as eager as ever. We are going to the Sierra's on 7/24 and will likely be the only 131 year old rope team in the area. It will be my first extended climbing with George since Latok1, hopefully we will eat better. If any of you are going to the Incredible Hulk or the Whitney area we may run into you. Jeff, see you on the 23rd.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jun 27, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Steve, I just remember George being heavily - almost at a spiritual level - moved by the experience of the climb. They really passed the point of no return. They only carried about 9 pins, a small rack of nuts, and an ice screw or two. They had underestimated the technical difficulty, but proceeded, anyway, until they were so high they couldn't retreat. Then George took a big fall. They spent that night huddled in their limp tent fabric, absolutely doubting their ability to go up, down or sideways in the morning. The amazing traverse and rappell into the upper ice gully the next morning was their miraculous path to salvation.
-Jello
edit- yes, see you on the 23rd, Jim.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jun 27, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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bad ass are the two words to describe that ascent.
what, 3 ascents of the wall thusfar and no one wanting to completely follow the route of the others?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 27, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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Some Serious Shiz, there.....Like someone told me once, Up there, it's Real.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Jim- ask George if he would care to join in the discussion here. I would love to hear what thirty years of reflection on this route would amount to.
Chris Jones' thoughts would be pretty amazing too!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jun 27, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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One of the great alpine adventures of all time.
Jim or Jeff, you guys should talk to George about joining the campfire here.
Rick
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 28, 2009 - 12:44am PT
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That climb is one of the handful so out there as to defy understanding.
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yo
climber
a tied-off Tomahawk™
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Jun 28, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Those closeups, George looking up, Chris looking down, man, that says it all, don't it.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 28, 2009 - 01:41am PT
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What's the history of that terrible wall in terms of ascents??
JL
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 28, 2009 - 01:55am PT
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What's the history of that terrible wall in terms of ascents??
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I know it's only see two more ascents. Blanchard & Cheesemond in 1985, and more recently Steve House and Marko Pezelj. I think that's it. Barry and Cheese did a new route, and I think so did House and Prezelj.
It's about 4,500 vertical feet of climbing, remote, and kinda serious.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 28, 2009 - 02:09am PT
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Looking at those pics it makes the wall look like a breaking wave of grey shale, hellish to set anchors, and probably raining debris day and night. Take a ripper on that shite and it's lucky if anything hold at all - and that's only judging on the pics. Perhaps it was even worse.
JL
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jun 28, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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Greatest alpine climb done since the Eiger.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 28, 2009 - 02:36am PT
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cool, hail to canadian choss walls!
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Jun 28, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
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Yep, and the House route is more of a variation...
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