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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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I always wonder where the majority lies on Internet witch hunts. Maybe it's just a loud minority on here and there really are tons of climbers out there having fun and grateful to ES like he says? Maybe not? Woot?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 15, 2015 - 02:01pm PT
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Maybe it's just a loud minority on here
Can't speak for a "majority," as I'm just one guy, but it's my perception that most climbers in general are not okay with people adding bolts that substantively change the character of pitches/routes.
If all ES did was replace anchor bolts (in original holes as much as possible), most would not perceive a problem. But that is not the whole extent of what he does.
And the "everything is great, everything is awesome, everything is fab, and everybody loves me, woot" bit is really wacky! He won't OWN the disagreement that genuinely does exist. Thus, no HONEST discussion can take place.
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Offset
climber
seattle
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Oct 15, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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the taco is "a climbing community" not "THE climbing community"
and
on one thread:
"why do all the thread turn into terrible name calling"
on this thread:
"why won't he get down to our level of terrible name calling"
finally someone is positive no matter how vile some attacks get...and it seems to just p1ss people off more. kind of like little kids on the playground. only sad, because it's grown ups.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 15, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
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finally someone is positive no matter how vile some attacks get
I don't think that that's an accurate summation. He's not "positive." He simply refuses to acknowledge even the EXISTENCE of legitimate concerns over his behavior. That is quite different (and downright odd, given the prima facie legitimacy of the questions).
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Oct 15, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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This thread is winding down so fast, I can hardly keep up!
%^)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 03:47pm PT
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You old farts best speak up and put the next generation on the right track, because for the most part, today's young climbers are self-absorbed idiots with zero connection to the natural world.
They're also seemingly oblivious to the rising tide lifting all land managers'
boats which are almost universally arrayed to fight any and all bolting.
It's gonna be free soloing or bowling sooner than later.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 15, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
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Erik is clearly not doing the right thing up there. And it is incredible that he continues to "stay positive" and "woot woot" when the vast majority of climbers posting here are telling him to stop. His perception that a majority of "current" climbers agree with him, and everyone else is a "has-been old timer who doesn't climb anymore" is similarly insane.
A Psychiatrist's wet dream.
Intense preoccupation with a narrow subject, one-sided verbosity, restricted prosody, physical clumsiness and atypical (peculiar or odd) use of language are typical of the condition, but are not required for diagnosis.
People with Asperger syndrome often display intense interests, such as this man's fascination with continually vandalizing a National Park with his lumberjack equipment and motorized rock drill.
The few people who support Erik and the hyper-drilling of every route in the Valley are people who want to be able to say, "I did a really hard A5 route", but they want to be able to clip a ladder of belay bolts up past the hard sections.
Someone should video tape Erik using his power drill in the Park, so that he can be appropriately convicted and confined to a Federal Detention Facility. At the very least, a petition to have him banned from National Parks seems to be in order.
He apparently can't control his compulsion to drill holes all over existing routes. He is a sociopath who needs to be restrained.
If the climbing community doesn't police its own actions, the Man will step in and do it for us. Sloan needs to be stopped.
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c wilmot
climber
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Oct 15, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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the quickest way to get bolting banned in Yosemite is to complain about it. The people who run the park hardly know what a bolt is let alone the "ethics" behind climbers installing them
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
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have him banned from National Parks seems to be in order. This is not best way to deal with Erik.
The precedent of banning someone with initiative from climbers will hit as bumerang many of us later
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Oct 15, 2015 - 05:08pm PT
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The precedent of banning someone with initiative
Initiative?
Like this sort of initiative?
I don't see how Erik is different from the guy who spray paints rocks in Joshua Tree. He violates Federal law with his power drill, and needlessly damages existing climbing routes that he unilaterally deems to be flawed and in need of in-pitch repair. When other climbers attempt to dissuade him, he ignores their concerns, and continues to vandalize the Park.
Chongo got banned from Yosemite just for hanging out in the cafeteria too much. If he can be banned, Erik should be banned.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 15, 2015 - 06:07pm PT
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Still waiting for a justification of the Great Slab Route bolt ladder. None has been given. I got a good look last year from Mideast Crisis, and it is a blight of bolts in an area of the Column where there are few other bolts. How is adding a bolt ladder around two whole pitches ever OK!?
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 15, 2015 - 06:14pm PT
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The people who run the park hardly know what a bolt is let alone the "ethics" behind climbers installing them
You really are stupid.
A lot of the people who run the Valley are still climbers now and have been for years.
They've done El Cap several times.
Stupid big mouth Supertopo loons never have a clue ......
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Oct 15, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
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^^head Ranger Mike Gauthier, for one.
Known him for 20+ years.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Oct 15, 2015 - 06:45pm PT
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Individuals get banned from National Parks all the time for breaking the laws. Right CMac?
Woot!
I'm an "old codger" and probably not qualified to comment (half dozen grade V / VI first ascents A3 or harder- in the last decade though none in Yosemite). It bums me out to read that it is becoming accepted practice for people to add two bolt anchors to existing aid routes, particularly on some of the harder climbs which might feature creative natural anchors. Part of the challenge for us is minimizing the bolt / hole count. I think it is tough to understand for persons who have never done a first ascent or who were raised on the MP ethic of "every route must be detailed down to the last move and every placement must be known".
If this character has done half as much as he has been accused of in these various threads it seems a reasonable reply on his part would be appropriate. It is people like Erik Sloan which endanger the future generations of climbing in Yosemite. Woot! Woot!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 15, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
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Woot the f#ck? Enough already. Anyone who says w---- more than once a decade should be banished to Arkansas.
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c wilmot
climber
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
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while SAR members know what a bolt is the heads of the various divisions most certainly do not. Yos is plagued by nepotism and many employees only qualification for working there was being ejaculated out of their NPS father
That said I have nothing but respect for your service with SAR Mr.Braun.
I was a stoopid trail worker for YOS though....I actually worked...big mistake
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Erik Sloan
Big Wall climber
Yosemitebigwall.com
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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Man I love this thread, haha.
Madbolter1, Richard Jensen of Wings of Steel fame, who added bolts to all the belays on Sea of Dreams while doing the 4th ascent? Is that you?
Ok,ok, let's stay on topic for a sec....This thread is about Tens Days After. Who here has done it? Who thinks the bolts I replaced are good? Everyone I've talked to in the last ten years who has done the route was super psyched I replaced all those bolts.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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^^Still no answers after all this time.
Just bad redirect - at least the "woot" is gone.
I am thankful for that.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
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Y'all should get out of Yosemite National Park some time and climb in a place that isn't the climbing equivalent of "The Kim Kardashian Reality TV Climbing Show."
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