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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 22, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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Man, that antipodes roof is amazing, Brass Nuts. Cool stuff all!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Apr 22, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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Anyone heard of "K.D. Live"
Gah! I forgot to take pics the other day when we went to it. The biggish boulder at the base of Figures on a Landscape has a hard, steep, OW crack underneath it (literally 15' downhill/right from Figures start, right at the base of the astrodome).
It has enough change in size to make it fairly technical when you have to change tactics, around 15 or 20ft long. Probably 5.12 or 5.12+, I think Kevin rated it V6 when it was established. Basically hand/fist stacks and a knee with some constrictions that require trickery to pass, about 45-60degrees overhanging .
Maybe Mike or Shanti took some pics. It's another one that's a little too close to the ground, but you only notice it in maybe one spot when you need to sag down to get a foot out and around a constriction.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 22, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
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Still waiting for a FFA...
More Air on the approach (slab variation):
Kinda fixed...
LCC's Schoolroom Roof. Opposite of o-dub. Althought the chimney variation to the right is kinda awkward...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 22, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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Not a crack, but 65' of horizontal pocket climbing over a flat landing- "High Spirits" V8
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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Apr 22, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
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EC Does It
Social climber
Sonoma/San Diego
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Apr 23, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
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Awesome pics all around.
Snowey that roof crack looks awesome.
Kenny, let's see some more!
I've seen that huge box of pics you have...post up!
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B-Dog
Trad climber
LOUISIANA
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Apr 26, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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Here's a classic! I'll be back on this one soon.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Apr 27, 2009 - 09:23am PT
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Classic but whats it called?A Dogs Roof?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 21, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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Bump because that other thread linked me here, which is where we should always be.
C'mon eastsiders and ex eastsiders- where's the bitchin' roof crack boulder problem here? I've been looking, so far mediocrity or offwidth has been what I've found.
Anyone do the offwidth problem on the Birthday Boulder at the Buttermilk? I've done it from the fists, but only half assed the attempts on the enitire project. Go figure, but it's hard to find anyone else who wants to try the problem with me.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 21, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
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That's definitely Dog's Roof, cilley.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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a couple new butte things....
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Aug 21, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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I'm going to throw a teaser out there....
Hint: It's remote.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Aug 22, 2009 - 04:28am PT
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Hobbit Book (pilfered from rockclimbing.com):
From my Library:
Of course The Great Roof:
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MaxJ
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 24, 2009 - 02:26am PT
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Hey Tom, the birthday boulder roof goes (either way, even):
Posing on the Gong Show
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Aug 24, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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"Anyone do the offwidth problem on the Birthday Boulder at the Buttermilk? "
Did it first go in Fall of '07, dislocating my thumb in the process while pressing through the pivot. It's shown on the old Rockfax foldout topo thing with a "5.12 OW" notation, but isn't listed/described with the other problems, and the new Bishop Bouldering guide doesn't list it or even show it on the topo IIRC.
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fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
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Aug 24, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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"Here's a 30' roof, called the Macabre Wall Roof, 450' off the deck, mostly a crack (but the crux is when the crack ends 10' before the lip). It was first free climbed by my brother Greg in 1967. Has only been freed once more, in 2002. Ken Gygi, the 2nd ascenscionist, figured it's about 12c. Pretty impressive for the day!"
your brother freed a 12c roof in 1967?
that is surprising to say the least. that's light years ahead of its time.
'pretty impressive for the day' is an understatement.
great thread. keep em coming.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
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What Greg was doing in the 60's is one of the best kept secrets in American climbing. He was waaay ahead of his time. What the boys in Cali were doing around the same time did not compare.
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Prezwoodz
Big Wall climber
Anchorage
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Aug 24, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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John Borland in Obed. Don't know if this really counts as a roof crack. It is a big roof crack / gorge with such easy holds it's probably a 5.8.
The big roof crack and a party on Organasm
Roof crack exit on Windows Route in Sedona.
The Nose route at Gibralter
Does this count?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 24, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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Two takers on the Birthday Boulder Roof? That's awesome. I feel like I'm attending some sort of secret society meeting, or AA. I've never seen anybody on that thing except my dumb arse.
I've never figured out the technique to do the wide part. Do you get all the way in squeeze chimney style? That one end is pretty wide. Do you try that leavitation stuff? Stacks and feet way in?
Cool. good job on doing it. I'll have to give it another go. If I remember, from the fists was pretty tough. From fists, it was only a few horizontal moves before the cheater feet, then just a weird flare.
Maybe Wednesday night. That's the one night I can get out these days.
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