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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 18, 2013 - 08:31am PT
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Dont bother Wes, these bumbling chuffdaddies come on here to act all tough cuz they did a run out chossy 5.10b once.....
..and somehow this is morally superior to the majority of climbers today who want to be better climbers.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Aug 18, 2013 - 09:37am PT
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I don't think that the number of bolts is irrelevant, once the first is placed. It's a matter of style and taste, like a good guitar solo. Too many notes, and the whole thing can be technically impressive, but forgettable.
There's nothing wrong with a good sport climb, but not every climb has to be a safe sport climb. Nowadays, if you don't feel up for a sporty climb, there's usually a safe climb a few steps away. We need to preserve diversity, so that a variety of experiences is available.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 09:57am PT
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mr compton i have to assume
that you were won of those
lads that made the track team
and headed up the poetry club.
your stamina is impressive,
as are your (implied) achievements on stone.
and your literary jabs aimed
at demeaning a good intent
are well-executed.
i cower down, sir,
humbled by your apparent prowess.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 18, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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Lol, you got me Sir Wegian, I ran cross country and was an Eng lit major in college.... and I would certainly trade all that endurance for the power to do a proper front lever.
I actually suck at sport climbing compared to those I climb with at the areas I go to. But at 44, I'll take what I can get.
FWIW, in the late 80s/early 90s, I was a hard-core trad that scoffed at even the convenience anchors going up. Now I clip permadraws and hangdog the glued and chipped chosspile lines into submission for the sake of a coveted number and attached letter.
I am not arguing for the sake of arguing, but to point out that one's satisfaction in the game of rock climbing is all relative to the experience one is seeking. ...and that experience can even change by the day.
There is no moral high ground.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 18, 2013 - 11:13am PT
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So how well did it work when you tried it out on yourself?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 18, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Define bottom feeder... and yes I train to do harder moves. I chase numbers like some chase virgin lines. Neither is better than the other.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 18, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Bumbling up 'bold' 5.10 while 20# overweight then coming on ST and thinking you are better than sportclimbers that train to be fit. ..
...is the definition of bottomfeeding to me.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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You guys are pretty fuking funny. I've never advocated for turning every climb into a sport climb or adding bolts to established lines, at least not without the agreement of the majority of what passes for a community up here in Tahoe. The call to "keep tahoe bold" implies Wegi is unhappy with recent bolting activity, yes no? Or just needed to pound on his chest a bit... ain't nothing wrong with that.
So, is it the convenience anchors on top of the 5.9 below High Energy Wall that got you upset? The bolted lines on the blocks below Sugar Loaf... the same lines the "bold" walked past countless times and didn't think twice about. Are those silly little slabs somehow reserved for the "bold" when they get around to it... or can the pathetic losers who don't feel like risking their lives every time they tie-in take their friends up there and have a good time climbing safe lines? Or is it something else?
Why the call to "keep tahoe bold?"
FWIW, I've onsighted 10 climbs up Cloud Burst/High Energy without knowing a thing about them, and 3 more knowing only the grade. I suppose that isn't "bold" because someone had climbed them sometime before me. Certainly not as bold as aid climbing a chossy line, scrubbing (on lead of course!!!), and then red pointing it. Most sport climbing pussies I know routinely take 30+ foot whippers... but that's not bold, that's just fun. When was the last time you took a 30 footer?
Don't get me wrong, I know how much work goes into cleaning lines, and I appreciate the work/effort... just not the condescending attitude towards all other forms of climbing it breeds in some.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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Wasn't Pump Lust on Snowshed originally a gear line? That seems bold, but then, it's been a few years since I've looked at it.
Out of my league.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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I miss Salt Lake... where you could do a classic trad climb to warm up, watch one of the low key local legends float the 11c R next to it and catch a TR on their rope, and then glean beta from then for the 5.12 sport climb... all within 100 feet of each other... all without any bitching about "boldness" or "over bolting"... just people having a good time climbing on rocks. The next day you could find the same folks putting up safe sport climbs for others to enjoy... or chossineering some new lines on some of the higher peaks... or lounging around on a crash pad with a latte.
Is it the Sierras or just California in general that breeds the bullshit elitist mentality, where having fun climbing takes a back seat to "boldness" or perceived "number chasing?"
I placed gear for the first time in 2 years yesterday. Did Space Truckin placing 9 pieces. I need validation from people I've never met... was it bold? Come on, please tell me it was bold. Did I do okay for a boulderer? For christ's sake, yesterday won't be nearly as much fun unless I get someone to tell me it was bold.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 18, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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I miss Salt Lake... where you could do a classic trad climb to warm up, watch one of the low key local legends float the 11c R next to it, and then glean beta from then for the 5.12 sport climb... all within 100 feet of each other... all without any bitching about "boldness" or "over bolting"... just people having a good time climbing on rocks. The next day you could find the same folks putting up safe sport climbs for others to enjoy... or chossineering some new lines on some of the higher peaks... or lounging around on a crash pad with a latte.
Is it the Sierras or just California in general that breeds the bullshit elitist mentality? First I've gotta take the moral elitist high ground here, as it's my one peeve. It's Sierra. Never Sierras. NEVER!!!
Now that that's out of the way, have you ever run into the attitude you mention while climbing? I haven't. I think it's indigenous to the supertaco, not any geographic area.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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leggo my ego! hey chim, since your apparently 20lbs overweight we should probably get out tomorrow and work it off.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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Wasn't Fathers Day sent on lead, with no fixed gear, a few years ago?
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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I think Ron once mentioned Indian Rock as being the best alpine rock in Tahoe... so take that for what it is worth. It takes a whole hour to hike up there and tops out at about 8600'!
LaConte used Sierras.
Sierra, Sierras, NevAHduh, NevAWduh, whatever... I don't speak Spanish.
And YES, I have met mostly cool people while climbing in California... although most of them have been from out of state.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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LaConte used Sierras Now he's on my list too. I don't care i'll punch a baby in the face if his first word is sierras
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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Come on gumby, I had to grade "Sierra's" assignments when I was teaching or she would fail. And if she ever hung out with my step-niece, they would be the Sierras.
Technically, sierra means saw... so sierraS means sawS... the mountain range in question looks like a bunch of sawS to me, rather than a single saw.
How was it Jebus? Did you write a TR? (Honestly, I'd only look at the pictures if you did). Did you SEND?
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Okay, I concede... Ron set me straight... the proper name is clearly Sierra with NO s.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Nice work. I'd like to do that before I get too old.
So you recommend taping? I haven't worn tape gloves since Indian Creek in 1996.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 18, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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Yeah, Queefus, it's a pissing contest.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 18, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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And excuse us for trying to save that rock.
You aren't trying to save the rock, you are trying to hold onto your past. There is nothing wrong with that, just be honest about it.
The bane of the traditionalist, whether in climbing or politricks, is the assumption that keeping their version of history intact is worth more than someone else's experience.
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