Bolt chopping at Sugarloaf

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 178 in this topic

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GoMZ

Trad climber

Eastern Sierra

Apr 26, 2012 - 06:27pm PT

It was definitely there then. I remember having to climb around it.

Ron, I needed some ball cupping after leading that first pitch:-)

michaeld

Sport climber

Sacramento

Apr 26, 2012 - 06:27pm PT

Maybe this weekend i'll get some ball cuppin' in at the Leap. We'll see.

the kid

Trad climber

fayetteville, wv

Apr 26, 2012 - 06:31pm PT

why are you bolting boulders?
especially if they have been done in the past...

seems like a bad idea and a good way to get the man involved and shut it all down..
kurt

michaeld

Sport climber

Sacramento

Apr 26, 2012 - 06:34pm PT

People will bolt anything to get the FA. Or say they bolted a line...

Nobody climbs that sh*t unless it's too hot up on the bun or they're into short bolted slabs.

michaeld

Sport climber

Sacramento

Apr 26, 2012 - 06:37pm PT

Something about those 3 at the same time does seem soothing. Especially after a gnarly 10b x rated offwidth.

GoMZ

Trad climber

Eastern Sierra

Apr 26, 2012 - 06:47pm PT

^^^ that's funny Ron. Be wary though I know some climbers who will do anything to earn a quick buck:-)

kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Apr 26, 2012 - 07:38pm PT

Ron,

Perhaps a new thread should be started titled

"Job Opening at Sugar Loaf"

michaeld

Sport climber

Sacramento

Apr 26, 2012 - 07:39pm PT

That's exactly what we need.

A 3rd Sugarloaf thread on the home page.

WyoTrad124

climber

Apr 14, 2015 - 04:41am PT

F@*# the FA!!! Climbing has become a First Ascencionist Sport climbing generation who wouldnt know how to place a nut or tricam if their life depended on it. Uneducated kids and unethical adults who either shun or dont know a damn thing about guys like Reinhold Messner Alex Lowe, Mark Twight, Steve House or even much of the history circling Yvon Chouinard or any of the other Golden Age Climbers. Climbing used to be about adventure and challenge together not just... I bet if i drill a flippin bolt ladder and pull a few moves i could climb this face faster than those slow trad climbers. bolts are ok for anchors in well established crags nothing more nothing less. And if you self entitled sport climbers want a real challenge/adventure step into a purists shoes and go suffer an alpine ascent you pussies!

kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Apr 14, 2015 - 08:24am PT

WyoTrad is yet another worthless troll. His first post is to bump a 2+year old thread and spray to incite what? Go somewhere else.

Killer K

Boulder climber

Sacramento, CA

Apr 14, 2015 - 09:21am PT

Zzzzzzzz

The loaf is tapped. There are tons of places to spray bolts at established sport areas in the Tahoe vicinity. Leave the loaf alone.

Bolts are good. Trad is good. Climbing is fun. Respect the ethic of each crag and no one gets their panties in a bunch.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Apr 14, 2015 - 11:48am PT

dont know a damn thing about guys like Reinhold Messner Alex Lowe, Mark Twight, Steve House

F*#k those guys.

squishy

Mountain climber

Apr 14, 2015 - 02:49pm PT

Oh boy, if only Warren Harding could read this and respond...

WyoTrad124

climber

Apr 15, 2015 - 02:10am PT

Vitality your profile listing says mountain climber yet you pay know respect to those who paved the road?? Alex Lowe was simply the best but would decline to acknowledge anytime anyone said so and has bigger nuts than you!Reinhold Messner is the godfather of Alpinism and his nuts are probably bigger than two of your heads duct taped together. Goes to prove my point about hot shot know it all uneducated climbers. And for the rest of you...anyone who would favor placing bolts and are so strongly against chopping bolts/bolt ladders... I agree that the property should be returned but as far as chopping bolts how about the Compressor route getting chopped? The ethics dont apply to one area they apply to everywhere... The compressor route on Cerro Torre should have been chopped along time ago and now that it finally was chopped a few years back the Alpinists responsible were/are under heavy fire. There is an "Over" usage of bolts in the Climbing community and any Joe off the street can reach the top of a route by unfair means my arguement is not against bolts but in fact against this fast growing militia of so called "Elitist Sport Climbers" With no ethics concerning the environment or other climbers who think that bolts should be everywhere....El Cap, Moonlight Buttress, Half Dome The Apron where does it end?? Before you know it every bolt placing unable to place pro average joe as#@&%e will have desecrated thousands of the worlds most classic or iconic climbs.Thinking that we own the stone is wrong... Being a part of the stone and climbing by fair means and having fun is right. But ill stick to my guns when I say that placing bolts has its place, chopping bolts is a right reserved by those who climb in clean style instead of hangdogging from a bunch of bolts.Because like it or not sport climbers your style destroys more stone than a thousand cam placements simple as that so limiting bolt usage and chopping routes that have been wrongly put up. Nuff said!

WyoTrad124

climber

Apr 15, 2015 - 02:19am PT

Oh and Squishy F*#k Warren Harding his unclean ethics are the first of what has become todays problem. Yvon Chouinard and Chuck Pratt never really approved of his excessive aid climbing style. You know what excessive aid sounds like to me??? Cheatin Pussy!!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Apr 15, 2015 - 07:55am PT

To me climbing is about following own passion, not jerking off to a quote from Kiss or Kill. I honestly respect their accomplishments, but what the f*#k does Messner or Steve House have to do with Sugarloaf - a little granite crag? You are obviously a troll, but even a troll could make more sense.