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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:10am PT
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What were those problems? Dark Side of the Moon. And some problem to the left of it. I remember the first time I was at Baldy, seeing Largo do them with no feet. Just huckin' moes one after another. Each problem took about two seconds, max. And you're right JL, that must be the slickest rock on earth.
C'mon JL, lets go to Baldy. Bettcha it's still killer!
I know the stream changes the base of some of the problems from time to time. What's it like now? (Muir?)
Bong water?... Hilarious!
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:11am PT
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Ah, yes. Santee. Another good Diego bouldering contest that attracted the foreigners! Ricky dragged (drugged?) us down for that one too.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:20am PT
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Cuco (rightside) has horrific landings this year and the crashpads will just float away downstream, but you can reach the leftside holds now from the ground. And the Dyke problems have a permanently-running stream underneath 'em now (along with SERIOUS berry bushes), so they're outothequestion. Hustle Patterns is unchanged, and unchalked. B Boulder has a sandy landing again, when last I saw it. But don't tell anyone. OK?
Henny's got this bionic claw now, Largo. The good doctors have been doing some top-secret customization on the Chicken's left hand. Watch for sandbags along the road!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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I remember Yabo's Duck Soup period. In that time frame he did Catchy and Catchy Corner on a solo bender.
Catchy Corner was wet.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:53am PT
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Henny –
I just call em like I see em. Can I help it that the edit button doesn’t show up on THAT post? Not my fault . . .
Rubbing alcohol would have been my guess too. Nice to know where that technique came from. I’ve used it. Should do so some more. I think Mr. Charles Cole could prove that experiment. My guess (I bet) EBs, Fires, Stealth cleaned with alcohol has a higher coefficient of friction than dirty and oxidized rubber. It seemed to stick better for me.
Hate to pull-out the big guns but you forced me . . . Mt. Woodson is the type location for Woodson Granodiorite = small crystals, think glass. Mt. Rubidoux is Quartz Monzonite = bigger crystals, think heavy grit sandpaper.
Now, I have a question for you. Can you tell us who the local sand-baggers were at Mt. Woodson, who asked Royal Robbins to free the crack-climb that un-known to Royal hadn’t been, it was still an aid climb? And then he did it, hence the name “Robbins” hand crack. Robbins bagged the baggers. So who were they?
I would have gone to Rubidoux contests had I been in CA at the time. Rubidoux is awesome. I really like to boulder there now when I visit the in-laws. I’m going to have to try “Candlestick” (and I promise not to use them). Would like to boulder Baldy. But Rubidoux is no Woodson. It’s like comparing one potato to a bag of potatoes. All I have to say is go to Woodson and jump-on “Move over Junior” and good luck. You can get the second ascent, and it was climbed in the 90s! Now mind you that is just one climb . . .
Also if this ever leads to a boulder-off between Rubidoux Boys and the Woodson Men, I just want to say to everyone that I am the splitting image of Chris Knuth. Amazing how that is really.
(Uh-oh. Damn . . . Damn . . . Now where did I put Chris’s phone number . . .??)
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hashbro
Trad climber
Wiliams, Oregon
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:56am PT
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Speakin' of Yabo. I remember first meeting him in Spring of 77' at the Yosemite lodge. The next day he and Matt Cox cruised the Good Book while having a pretty nasty ego clash and screaming their way up the route.
Many of us preferred getting along with my partners, but Yabo was a special case.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 10, 2006 - 01:01am PT
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Sandbags? That's pipe, dude! Sorta like a rooster telling the hen that it's a chicken. We all know who drives the biggest dumptruck.
Speaking of Weeping Wall solos: how about Vogel doing 10 Karat? The second pitch in particular. At least on Duck Soup there are edges, not just that paddling non-sense. Always thought that one was impressive.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 10, 2006 - 01:22am PT
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Fall 1974, Henry Barber visited the US. Many of us So Cal high school students were at Pirates cove one school afternoon when Henry showed up in his green "Shoenards." Interestingly we all spanked hot Henry and make him squirm while not getting up our classics.
Then Matt Cox whispered in my ear, "I can't believe this guy is the world's best climber." Matt was serious.
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2006 - 01:37am PT
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Glad you guys spanked him (Barber).
A thief, with no respect for other peoples routes. He comes to Yosemite and just steals peoples projects.
Kauk and I cleaned fish crack and then he just goes up there without asking or anything and trys to do it. Same with Chapmans hardd at the cookie. Pissed a lot of people off during that time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 10, 2006 - 01:40am PT
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Butterballs?
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2006 - 01:46am PT
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I don't remember about butterballs Jay.
But everybody cornered him one day to have it out with him, he would just make up these lame excuses.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 10, 2006 - 02:00am PT
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Klimmer: glass vs. sand paper? one potatoe vs. a bag of potatoes? ouch. that hurt.
I fess up, I'm no expert on Woodson history. I believe I was once told the Robbin's crack story, but I don't remember it. And the bagged sand baggers were?
One thing I will concede: there are way too many good boulders at Woodson. Always wished some of em were quicker/easier to get to.
I'm not even buying into that glass/sandpaper thing. Humorous comparison, though.
Check out the Rubidoux Wild West if you haven't already. Some good stuff there.
And seriously, Baldy is a must if you haven't been there.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 10, 2006 - 02:01am PT
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The things that happen, it's so weird sometimes ...
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 10, 2006 - 10:28am PT
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Jeff, great to hear that story about Duck S I’m glad you were there to pass it along. It really stirs something up inside of me JY doing that onsight
Sure any solo would be impressive on the weeping Wall, not many places to hide. Hasn’t that second pitch of 24k been done no hands in stick boots? I might have a picture somewhere?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 10, 2006 - 10:53am PT
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Oh, gawd, not another promised photo! (Just like Exhibit R... ;-p )!
And, Klimmer, if you dredge-up the old alcohol trick, make sure that you use denatured rather than rubbing alcohol. The cheap stuff will leave a nice film, and make the smoogy stuff even more so!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Mar 10, 2006 - 11:17am PT
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Henny— Hey, geology happens what can we do about it?
I’ll have to fess up also, it was a sandbag Q. I don’t know who the local Woodson sandbaggers were. I was hoping the Stonemasters knew ;-)) Actually I asked Royal in person after a slide-show/lecture he gave at A-16 at the Mission Gorge store (early 90s?), and he vaguely remembers it happening that way, but he didn’t recall the names of the baggers either. Perhaps WL knows? Maybe it is lost to history.
You know the actual % of the entire Mt. Woodson that is climbed is about 25% in my guess, leaving 75% that is rarely climbed and/or undiscovered. There is so much more potential there. It’s pretty amazing actually.
Rubidoux is definitely very good. Lot up there I haven’t been on yet. I will make it to Baldy sometime soon. Wonder if the boulders there in the wash have been washed away though, and if the scene is really different now? I always like skiing at Mt. Baldy in good Powder. Some of the best in So. Cal when we get it and it’s cold enough. So the boulders are definitely on the way to skiing I have no excuse.
On-edit:
RM-- Thanks for the tip!
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 10, 2006 - 11:27am PT
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About Henry; I always found in my travels locals in any particular area get a little ruffled if you challenge their traditions or test pieces. If you happen to push things ahead before their ready to pride can become a strong emotion. I remember Henry getting all us together probably 8 or so. Werner you were there. We all piled into my Toyota corolla and just as we were pulling out of camp in route to the fish crack for a group effort, Jim Donini stops us as tells me not to crash the car because it will set American climbing back 20 years. Made some of us laugh pretty good, Jim was always a serious guy. I halfway remember who all was there, Werner you remember? Anyhow it didn’t get done that day but was a good show to witness. He may of felt that he was then involved in the project.
Whether or not anyone wants to hear it Henry was really a visionary. Rick Accomazzo and I first hooked up with him on a cold call, he wanted to climb Valhalla. He had just flown in from who knows where and we picked him up in route to suicide, Rick probably remembers where. Hanging over from the back seat of the Pinto he cracked us up with his British stories all the way to Idyllwild. For Rick and I we had at least done Valhalla twice and had lead every pitch so giving up the second one to Henry was a pleasure. Henry still to this day tells me thats the most he has ever fallen on the lead (a whole three times) he also says it was one of his funest days ever out on the rock.
After that when he visited the beach I remember him showing us the sit down deep cave start to the Iron Man which later became the Diamond Man. He did have some vision.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 10, 2006 - 11:34am PT
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Given Gramicci's track record with Exhibit "R", I only have one thing to say about any other pictures of the weeping wall he promises: Hades will freeze over first!
Hey,... Speaking of Hades... Largo, tell us a story or two about doing the crux pitch, and what happened when some "famous hoties" showed up to repeat it. Good stuff that some people may not be aware of.
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Mar 10, 2006 - 12:08pm PT
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This sh#t is priceless.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Mar 10, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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I've got one Dick Shockley story. For some reason, I hardly ever ran into Dick, but he gave me a ride from Yosemite back to San Diego once, I believe just after Rick P. and I did the Dawn Wall - probably 1977.
So we smoke some herb in the car and Dick immediately challenges me to a game of mental chess. The idea is that you have to keep track of the board entirely in your head. Well, after maybe two turns, I'm already unable to "keep up". I've felt intellectually inadequate ever since.
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