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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Wait for it....wait for it....(Can't help but notice that sparkle in his eye, can ya.....)...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Why do the same people that think the FA party have the final say object to adding a bolt with consent from the FA party?
Like I said, some people get old, weak, republican, and inclined to pander to kids to be 'cool' and 'in'. I'm all for a cutoff beyond which it's not ok to retrobolt even with the FAs permission - leave that sh#t alone and either pony up or look away.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Bottom line is rap bolting is a consumptive act and there will never be enough rock within easy driving distance of any metro area to satisfy the rapacious appetite for new lines it feeds. Only rock in private hands or on actively managed public land is immune. Or maybe I've just got it all wrong and at some point there will be enough sport routes to satisfy everyone. Yeah, right. Would love to see a ten year time lapse map animation with two overlays, one with bolts in Red Rocks and another with houses in Las Vegas. Just another petri dish, but my how everyone squeals about those condos right up to the park.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I swear to you, this anchor was hand drilled on the lead with no prior knowledge or top roping of this climb (It was 4 pitches...oops...).....Gumby be my witness, and strike me down dead if I be lying....
Gumby and the 12" galvanized nail were the summit anchor on the FA of this cool spire....(We didn't rap bolt....really....I swear it...)..
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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it's not ok to retrobolt even with the FAs permission - leave that sh#t alone and either pony up or look away. It's out of my hands guys so don't ask again!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Attention sport climbers;...if you run out of bolt hangers.....use rebar (backed up with a shitty pin...)...it works just fine....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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If it's not on quality rock....why climb it or bolt it?...........(Help...the rock is melting............).....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Who needs bolts when you have tri-cams.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I didn't buy this stuff;....I got it all for my Birthday!!!!!.........(and I really wanted a red wagon instead.....).....I didn't want to hurt anyone's feelings;....so I had to go out and do some new routes......or else my friends who gave me these things would feel unappreciated.......(What the hell do I do with that big green cam......shet.........)...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Just top rope it....does every single bit of rock need to be grid bolted up for the masses......
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Check who did the FA.....if it has this man's name on it....it probably isn't a sport climb......
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Don't be a pussy;...hand drill it on the lead from a stance......
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Rap bolter.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Not in MY neighborhood......(sport crag...Charmonix, France......)...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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sleep in the bed you make for yourself......................
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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"If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to hear it, is it still a sport climb?"......(I'm not sure I have that quote correctly....but I'm sure it's close to that.....)...Why is this man smiling, anyways.......vandal.............(Can't be a sport climber....he's too old...probably an old trad dude that climbs with hexes, stoppers, and climbs in EBs....dinosaur....).....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Damn sport climbers....you can tell them a mile away;.....ruining our crags..............MY ROCKS, MY CRAGS, MY CLIMBS.............SPORT CLIMBERS GO HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Sheep go to heaven, goats and rap bolters go to HELL.....)....
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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...MY ROCKS, MY CRAGS...
I'm Irish so it all comes rather naturally...
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inyoupyos
climber
California
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I'm not all for routes that are ankle busters, or worse, but since there are some who are, be it the BY or an unremarkable 5.4, those who first ascended an R or X route, engaged in a mental challenge arguably important to get good at if climbing outside at all. What is climbing to become if it is all merely safe, and f'n completely boring."
Quote:
The majority of the easy routes at Pinnacles are poorly protected, yet the majority of the difficult routes are well protected -- aren't we doing a disservice to the community by having a different standard for those that are new to the sport? Not a disservice at all. Just the opposite. To many, the danger of climbing is all whether a climb is bolted to be safely climbed, which can also be very relative. The onus needs to be on the climber to climb well, which takes practice to be bold, and to back off, climb down, constantly make judgement calls, keep wits about them and not blindly rely on the bolts.
What I hear mainly from FAists, rap bolting isn’t generally a respected form of putting up a route unless it is way too difficult for most people to ever consider putting up ground up. Undoubtedly there are awesome lines put up that way. What’s not so cool, “development”, especially by rap bolters who would usurp routes at such a rate as Healyj says, I’ve heard so many purists intimate it’s like stealing the adventure and the history that could be made. And so is adding bolts to climbs without the FAists consent, maybe even with consent years later.
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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It's sort of shocking to see that anyone would think they were wiser in their youth than they are now. How sustainable can our ethics be if we give the FA party final say over any line they put up and then ignore their wishes later in life?
All sorts of difficult climbing ethics problems continue to come up, we need some way to have an open and honest debate about how to handle them. There are certainly several people posting in this thread saying "When I was a boy, we had to walk to school in the snow, up hill both ways, and feet hadn't yet been invented! We post holed our way there on our ankles! Kids these days have it easy!". While I have no doubt that some of you predate the invention of feet, that fact does little to advance the debate about bolting ethics.
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