The sad truth about California climbing.

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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 16, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
Climbed on the middle cathedral apron. Twenty minutes from the road, nobody there...quiet and one of the most beautiful settings around. The Valley is still mecca. The Sierra is beautiful but the valley is till the magnate
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 16, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Kevin, Alex is just warming up.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 16, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
I was gonna say, too, Kevin, that the Apron is the "temple in the cathedral", or the holiesty among the holies.

And Tony, LA has lots of problems. The biggest one is the worship of the auto and the mirror. Climbing access is way down the list. IMO the rock is just too chossy to lead, in many cases, as if you aren't aware. But the bouldering is tops. I never cared for any of the climbs in comparison to YV, which is a no-brainer, but it's fact. I have done lots of it in both places. I never had trouble with access in my whole life. I consider Tahquitz non-LA, along with the rest of the SoCal area away from the SFV, which seems to be the locus. I saw so many cliffs when we went out on pump service calls in Ventura/Sant Barbara/LA counties that it was silly. But they mostly looked like death-leads.

[Excuse me for living, dude.]
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jun 16, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Geez, exaggerate much?
If Idaho was actually dangerous, Ol' Joxitch would 1 dead MF. He ain't too swooft, that one.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Jun 16, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
But Rox, like yourself, sir, resides in the sanctum of Boise. You have no idea of the tribulations that await here in the feral, primitive part of the state. :-)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jun 16, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
Whatever. Like YOU know anything. I can't know if you even exist. "Just A deck of cards."
"You have no idea", indeed.......I laugh robustly.
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Jun 16, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
The heart of californIa climbing beats loud and clear in every soul willing to hike around one more bend, one more valley or ridge in the hopes of finding something. SO much Of life is what you make it, and California climbing is no different. Those willing to ask and share a beer or two in the popular areas will be turned onto a side of CA climbing they never knew existed. You think you know it, but you don't and very few do...
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jun 16, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
Word, Roughster.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 16, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
...and if not by the noble and lordly Mackenzie wolves... then certainly by rampaging, camo-wearing neo-nazis or max attack spud farmers.

Is it true that they're armed with potatoe guns?
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Jun 16, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
Shhh.. Idaho lol. Land of the skinheads, simple minded, and tixs for anyone with CA plates. Been there done that from the pan-handle to Boise, to planting trees in the Rainbows. ID has nothing on the CA...Nothing!

Spend a day hiking MSH, climb at DTSA, wine tasting on the way home at a 90+ point winery, followed by a Michelin 3 star resteraunt. For shits and giggles grab a 40 and celebrate life at Berryessa, the best lake in the state for chillin. What do you have?

Something the ID can't and never will touch.
Blakey

Trad climber
Newcastle UK
Jun 16, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
I've just stumbled into this....


I can't believe Jim's comparing California with the UK, that's a ridiculous proposition. It's way better over here.

Where I live, it ain't worth getting out of bed for anything under 10' high.

You should really think yourselves very, very, blessed.

Steve
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Jun 16, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
Is it true that they're armed with potatoe guns?


Yes they are, Anders. !As a lover of fries and a descendant of potato famine survivors, such implements are offensive to me and should be removed from sale immediately. The people who market and use these weapons should be imprisoned, but in a detention center more pitiless than Boise !
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 16, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
If you outlaw potato guns only outlaws will get to eat fries!
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Jun 16, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
Yow! .... then let us arm every home with spudzookas...wasn't this nation founded on the premise of equal opportunity ?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 16, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
Didn't the Mormons, in their trek across the wilderness to Zion, have handcart mounted potatoe guns? Kind of mobile heavy artillery?
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 16, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
Ah the joy of thread drift.


OK!

Potatoes are kind of a sensitive subject for me.

My mother's mother homesteaded in S. Idaho in the early 1900's, and of course, her family grew potatoes.

She once bragged to me that she had eaten potatoes every day of her adult life.

Then they killed her.




Yep!

She died of liver cancer, I'm sure potato induced and exacerbated.


Only lived to age 96.




Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 16, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
The historians are still arguing about it, but the introduction of the potato into Europe and then Asia, in the 16th and 17th centuries, probably led to considerable population growth, so stimulating colonialism and in due course the first industrial revolution. It was a nutritious crop which thrived in places that traditional grains didn't.

One indirect consequence may have been the Sherpas emigrating to and settling in Solu Khumbu in that time, as it became possible to grow enough to sustain a population up high.

Some cousins in Norway eat potatoes every day.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jun 16, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
My understanding is that a handful of potato farmers a marketing guy and a lobbyist got the state associated with potatoes for the NYC market.

Lived there almost 20 years. Never saw a potato field or nuthin. Climbing choices of moss covered boulders was thin.

California rules! Grows waaay more potatoes. Plenty of great rock climbing in all directions.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Jun 16, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
States with highest potato production. 2007 figures in hundredweight.

1) Idaho 117,000
2) Washington 95,000
3) Wisconsin 29,000
4) Colorado 24,000
5) Oregon 22,000
6) North Dakota 21,000
7) Minnisota 18,000
8) Maine 16,000
9) California 15,000
10) Michigan 14,000


Washington DOES grow good potatoes. When we lived in the Columbia Basin the "Norgolds" were a delectable delight. Can't buy them in SE Idaho though.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Jun 16, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
Idaho potatoes was a marketing stunt by J.R.Simplot, who happened to be neighbor to my parents up in the Boise hills. Above his house on the hill he had a huge flag pole with a huge flag that snapped in the wind, sounding like a machine gun all night long. My parents eventually sold the house and later bought another one out of earshot of his house. Simplot was not anyone's favorite neighbor and most Idahoans are not fond of him or his company.
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