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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 31, 2010 - 11:30am PT
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Population pressures have brought out the British in Cali climbers and every climbing possibility around population centers has been excavated into a climbing area regardless of quality.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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'tis true, no doubt. But there are ultra classic areas a bit farther out that don't see much traffic. Others still are relatively undiscovered. If people would walk more than a few hours, there is still a life time of rock to be had.
Instead of Pakistan or Kyrgistan, I'd like to spend two months in the Sierra.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 11:36am PT
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You have that right Tom, I'll be in the Sierra's in August.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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May 31, 2010 - 11:37am PT
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When you fly around in a light plane you see a multitude of interesting looking rocks that are essentially untouched by climbers...
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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There's huge stuff waiting to be had for those willing to walk two days instead of just one day.
Heck- there's only two routes that I know of on Languille peak. It's only a day away. Maybe the rock is shitty, but it looks good. Rowell had a route on it- he had a pretty good eye. That whole valley back there looks awesome for climbing, like a mix of yosemite and tuolumne.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 31, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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Jim...can't be as bad as Indian Creek! LOL
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 11:47am PT
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Yeah- I was wandering a bit, but Donnini's point is good. The close to urban areas are pretty forced at times.
Warbler- you keep posting some of that San Diego stuff that looks fantastic. The Mt. Woodson stuff looks like the real deal too.
I'm a Bay Area guy by birth. I've explored a lot around there. There's stuff. Good climbs here and there, but much of it has something lame about it. Too short, too much cleaning, too sandy, too much walking to too low of quality.
A lot of the time- it's too far. By the time you spend an hour and a half driving to the crag, and then another hour hiking, you could be at the Grotto or Jailhouse. If you are going to spend all that time in the car for a few hours of exercise, you could have gone biking and be drinking beer with friends already.
I moved.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 11:48am PT
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Kevin,
I'll come climb with you but, keep in mind the fact that I'm too old for polished rock. I was thinking more of LA, SF and Santa Barbara.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 31, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Jim, you're a bitter cuss lately. WTF?
Sure the 'popular' areas have traffic, but so what? There are gems to be had if you know the right people and don't like climbing around others.
One word...Shuteye.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 31, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Jim...in happier times.
Jim...thought we get to the "black" this season...maybe in the fall?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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May 31, 2010 - 11:57am PT
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Sad truth is negative attitudes and a lack of creativity.
So Cal is rich with possibilities in addition to our classics. A great place for climbers, anywhere in the state, plus we have the beach.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 11:59am PT
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The Fall Bob- Bluering, I think emulating the British is a positive thing- very creative. I'm off to my local crag, excellent sport climbing but I have to drive two miles and then walk 6 minutes- uphill!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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May 31, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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When you fly around in a light plane you see a multitude of interesting looking rocks that are essentially untouched by climbers...
TC,
Yep. There are a plethora of fine secret places that the masses will never visit and I wouldn't want them too. There is so much to do. You just have to open your eyes and see. There are even "JT" like regions still undiscovered and rarely climbed. SSSSsssssshhhhhhhh.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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May 31, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
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Jim wrote: I'm off to my local crag, excellent sport climbing but I have to drive two miles and then walk 6 minutes- uphill!
Jim...come to Boulder Canyon...it's greyhair accessible. Lot's crags under five minute approach. :-)
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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weighing my fatass in on this--
there are lots of little climbing places in so cal and anyone serious about climbing knows about them. stoney is always there for a free gym.
BUT
williamson rock was the focus for years and it has been taken away from us. there are lots of climbers around LA, and williamson is little more than an hour's drive away. our substitute has become echo cliff, an hour's drive, a 45-minute hike, getting intensely developed and resulting in a tiff with the land managers.
the need for a fairly large venue close to town won't go away. not everyone becomes a respectable bum and lives at the Y, so to speak. as i've said on other threads, i think the williamson closure was done on pretty thin ice and all it will take to melt it is climbers who care studying up on it a little. the access fund isn't going to do it for us, patagonia inc isn't going to do it for us, and FoWR, which takes all its cues from the usfuss, won't either. troy is a great fellow, but he stopped climbing at williamson before all this started.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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Rokjox,
I like my climbing partners like some guy's like there women: half my age plus 7. I've been known to have a drink or two.
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Douglas Rhiner
Mountain climber
Good question?!?!?!?!?
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May 31, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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Rox,
A challenge.
Never come to California again.
Bet ya can't do it.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 31, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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Jim...can't be as bad as Indian Creek! LOL
You mean the hundreds of climbers packed into the supercrack area 5 minutes from the road...
Or the hundreds (thousands?) of unclimbed splitters that are more than an hour from the road...
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Douglas Rhiner
Mountain climber
Good question?!?!?!?!?
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May 31, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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Rox,
Thank you.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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Hmmmmm Rokjox, sounds like a challenge. Later, I'm outta here my quick draws are calling me.
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