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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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dogboy rule #26: don't question the tactics of your betters whose skills and output tower over your own.)
Pip,
I think I know what you're saying, but as a broad principle to adhere to, I don't always think that's the right approach. Respect and appreciation is always good, for anyone really, but it shouldn't outweigh the net impact any particular action might have on access to the climbing community as a whole. Mind you I really don't think some tick marks thousands of feet up are going to be an impact as mentioned above, especially if they may get washed or scuffed away by the aiders of future ascents. For pure style issues, yeah, absolutely.
cheers all,
M
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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Jan 20, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
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^^^^
we are of one mind on this, great one. dogboy rule #26 does not allow for permanent damage to rock, or actions that interfere with others' attempts or access, by anyone - no matter how gifted and driven.
as you anticipated, i was thinking more along the lines of perhaps some mighty one slapping a few chalk ticks while trying to wire some .14 on an el cap FFA. not for me to play Moses for those in that stratosphere; rather above my pay grade.
OTOH, someone "augmenting" (like chipping holds) in the same scenario would surely hear this dog bark, and ideally feel his bite. as would anyone who poof paints up such an eyesore that it attracts the attention of land managers and with that perhaps puts access at risk.
so yeah, we are of one mind on this.
all the best,
^,,^
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 21, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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+1 on the ballot item "Tick marks are no different than other chalk marks left behind"
This is more of a style issue. "How much beta did you use to climb the route?" Chalk marks for beta vs chalk marks for sweat vs chalk marks for psychological support...
So this is the chalk equivalent of the "just don't clip them argument" - clever.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jan 21, 2010 - 03:42am PT
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you know, a while back the Mungster does the Half Dome to Glacier Point Death March,
now he is back at Hastle Rock, i mean, the downgrade withdrawl shock must be intense, to the point of shoutin down rain barerls at the strapping young age of, (insert age here), now i think i understand this thread on a deeper level than first anticipated. anybody wanna buy some Crack Cocaine?
the first one is free. ever talk to a Vet? you won't get hooked, i promise.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Jan 21, 2010 - 10:48am PT
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Tick Marks?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 21, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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this is still going?
thread has it all: chalk, groms, choss, trash, cops, kiwis, the purity of sweaty palms, the glacier, body fat percentage in new zealand, angry italians, french impressionists, redheads, pubic hygiene.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 21, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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You guys are ticking me off..
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 21, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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if you dont know this thats because youve probably never done a 5.13 or v10. and thats not even that "hard" anymore.
Whoa.....SSSSSPPRRAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!! Alert!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Jan 21, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
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anybody wanna buy some Crack Cocaine?
Crack:
Cocaine:
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 21, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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Spray....but true. I couldn't get up a V10 (let alone V7 right now) boulder problem for the life of me yet it seems that this is the where the game practically starts these days. A tick can be useful to pinpoint the sweet spot of a particular hold especially when dead pointing or dynamic moves are crucial for the send which is usually the case for climbs at these levels. There is no excuse however for not removing them when finished.
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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Jan 21, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz:
outstanding photo choice -- makes the OP point in a heartbeat. who the fook needs that much executive white out on such a beast of a tipper in a corner on desert red rock? hell, it's not like some trade route on varnish all goobered up with gobs of sun block from the weekenders. WTF? who needs chalk on that kinda turf? hell, i've fallen off stuff half that hard on oven hot days out that way without a bit of chalk. (ok, my piss-ant bicoastal idea of insane desert hot is almost certainly tidily -- no need for you UT desert rats to pile on, i'll slap myownself. promise.)
i'm telling you, just a strip of cheap notel towel is more than enough, especially there. hell, just a deep breath and a quick shake out will desiccate the digits out that way, pronto. that and your brain.
~~~
KLK:
> this is still going?
> thread has it all: chalk, groms, choss, trash, cops, kiwis, the purity
> of sweaty palms, the glacier, body fat percentage in new zealand, angry
> italians, french impressionists, redheads, pubic hygiene.
yeah man, isn't it great! this is the kind of gig i love, and need when chained to an idiot box under fluorescent lights (like now). i mean, can we really capture climbing in words? i've yet to see it done. i've read great tales, surely, and gotten all damp in the pants staring at great photos. but translating the magic of getting all lost in just fingertips and toes into words? nah.
so if i can't get out and actually climb, and words are all i can get in this stupid cage, then: "choss, trash, cops, kiwis, angry italians, french impressionists, redheads, pubic hygiene..." and the like is a world better than doing what my moron client thinks i am doing -- and surely better than talking to him about his new 'redwood burl stick shift knob for his bmw' that he just got in the mail.
dude makes US$8m a year - minimum. and all he has is $200 redwood golf ball of a stick shift knob that he's wandering around the orifice showing everyone. everyone. i've noticed that all my fat cat clients get caught in that web -- every last one of them has a pile of catalogs for insanely priced entirely useless stuff next to their desk. every last one of them has fallen for the same dope that made them so rich. perhaps there is not only justice, but an insight in this. ummm, er, probably not...
just noticed that i've got a petzl catalog in my bag -- all manner of shiny must have guy gear described in 4 languages. and of course there is this stunning redhead just off my starboard bow at the receptionist desk. too bad she has the brains of a shellfish. hmmm... the possibility of 4 minutes of bliss -- followed by a lifetime of prattle. you'd think it be an easy call. but then people have paid $600 for a single slice of toro nigiri from the belly of a 100+ year old fat local bluefin. hmmm... girl sushi...
ok, back to writing a 200 word client letter defining why this outfit's clients should grab their ankles and buy boy genius his next redwood burl stick shift knob, or functional equivalent. simple random anti-chance i didn't write sh!t for bernie madoff (and end up mrs guido the icepick). hell, i may well be doing it right now.
so, who's the whore? who's the shellfish?
enough of this. this dog needs more ascii 'climbing' dope. next thread. hmmmm... "Ice climbing video from Canada" looks sweet. ho-yeah! and i'm still on the clock. and boy genius thinks his stick shift knob is pricey -- dhope!
^,,^
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Sprock, it's worse than you know.
I went to the gym last night.
Prolly getting a membership.
I feel shame and guilt.
age = old and soon to get older
Maybe I redeem myself in the coming weeks if the storms abate some. YESH!
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Jan 21, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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this is sort of silly. tick marks are not the problem - it is the huge tick stripes that dont get removed that are the problem in my eyes and i agree about that. and if someone has a problem with it then that is lame compared to the real problems like trash, broken glass and the real graffitti in the area that can not be brushed off or does not wash off in the rain. i think those things would cause way more access issues and are not climber related.
i think there are far more important things to discuss/argue/debate/forget about.
how about getting to the root of the problem - no one on these forums does that much. so here i go; how about in the case of tick marks at crsp and everywhere - how about all climbing gyms start adding a short 5-10 minute lesson to the end of each 30-60 min climbing class to teach newbies a little respect for nature since that is where most gym climbers evolve to. gym bred newbies are most likely where most of these evil tick marks/stripes are probably coming from. people from the inner cities with little if any respect for the outdoors thinking it is just a sport and showing up at the rocks and since there is no bright colored tape for them to follow they put too many tick marks all over the rock and huge tick stripes then leave it when they leave. and probably are quite often rude to the other outdoor users and leave pieces of tape and other trash. to me that is far more of a problem. a few small tick marks wouldnt even be an issue if all that was decreased. i sweat a lot and my palms leave huge chalk marks that cover up tick marks. should i have to brush my chalk off every hold with a ladder or on rappel when im done or just not use chalk? good job trying to bring this to the surface munge. it does need to be dealt with. but i still will use tick marks and maybe i will just brush them off extra now. so should all of us. tick marks help my tick list. brushing them off helps us all. easy.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
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Si mon!
"brushing them off helps us all. easy."
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 21, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
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I went to the gym last night.
Prolly getting a membership.
i did last week. saw the longterm forecast. and then, the ankle i tweaked is hurting worse rather than less. skiing is out, hiking is out, and about the only thing i can do right now is yard on overhanging plastic blobs.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jan 21, 2010 - 06:39pm PT
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Ha, I knew there was a reason I dug FA's - no one else see my chalk cause their not in no stinkin guide book.
I'm a firm believer in white courage!
kev
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
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Coz,
This look like it? The arete's on, correct?
http://vimeo.com/8235630
The big long ones are sissy for sure!
Big long one? The Yabo problem? this one...
{Links to jeff n jen dot com have been disabled. Google reports the site is distributing malware. 6-4-13 st} /vids.htm
Video, Not work safe, fbomb big time.
Salad credit on second vid with the usual mudncrud crew. Munge credit on first vid, climber is Mark S. dude is strong.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 11, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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Well, at least no one is chiseling the boulder problem's name and rating into the rock yet, so you'll know what problem your doing and the consensus rating! That would really stir up a hornet's nest . . .
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