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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2012 - 03:12am PT
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Nice photo MH
That's Relic on the second anchor. Me and Luke at the top.
Long overdue is my Hanging Gardens TR. Here it is!
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hanging-Gardens/t11416n.html
Hamie- It seems that Bruce did remove those trees last year during his spring cleaning. It's holding up quite well considering the lack of traffic. Very bold sir, and Glenn of course.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 03:22am PT
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Hard to see us in that picture but that must be Luke on top belaying, Mike hidden in the inner depths of the chimney, and me at the lower belay waiting. We got our asses handed to us by this climb. Full respect goes out to Hamish M. for such a burl-fest. And I'd like to thank that old knotted cord hanging from the chockstone past Bruce's bolt placement for remaining in tact as I yarded on it. It made be feel shame but saved me from having to scrape my way into a hyperventilating frenzy trying to mount the chockstone. Luckily the pitch gets quite a bit easier after that, but still I had to keep stopping to return my breathing to a normal rate.
It's funny, I found the first pitch's chimney flare quite relaxing and enjoyable. Size matters I guess. Oh and so does a nice cushy top rope.
And Hamish, as you can see from the April 9th, 2012 4:00pm shot, those scraggly trees were nicely sawed down by Bruce.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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The Squamish Obscura and Chimney Club first group outing was a humbling one indeed! After Mike got spit out of the 2nd pitches squeeze flare section, twice, down he came... Never before have I seen some one fall out of a chimney.. Up I go in to the flare and up past the old piton and fixed mank combo that Mike was whippin on. I spun around and got my left shoulder in and would make about 6 inches of progress and be totally spent and while trying to rest slide back down 3....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Luke, I'd call the chimney flare to hand fist and finger corner crack the first pitch. The first first one was more of just an approach pitch, despite the one real move to start it off the ground.
Post your pics! Do you have any of the pulsating green rock ooze?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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..Finally I got a chest jam, and was able to shake out my legs and one arm...
@Relic- You're absolutely right.. as long as you're not disputing your affiliation with the recently founded Squamish Obscura & Chimney Club, we're counting on you to teach the rest of us the flying armbar
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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I'm totally down with the klub, only if we can change the name to SOCK -- Squamish Obscura & Chimney Klub.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Big Mike. Here's the promised pic of Europa/Crap Crags, and hardly worth the wait. It shows the first pitch above Trichome Ledge, some kind of a chimney/jam crack thingy. Apparently this pitch can now be avoided by a 5 bolt ladder, @ A0.
Wow. Great picture Hamish. And does it ever bring back memories. I climbed CC with Steve Loomer some time around 1975 or 76. Absolutely loved it, and never understood why it didn't get constant traffic.
I guess it's another example of the inability of a lot of climbers to see "a route" unless it's completely clean and obvious. I've done more than my share of scrubbing and cleaning and deforestation on the Chief and elsewhere, but Crap Crags, despite being heavily forested, was a gem. Fun climbing, not terribly hard, some great positions, a natural line...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Do members of the Cacademon Climbing Club get free membership?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Hhahaha! Nice one Tami.
Anders the only way in is to participate in an obscure outing.
I'm the founder, Mike's Flounder and Relic is the armbar specialist...
Kneewrecker chimney is on the hit list, as well as clean corner and cataract crags and Zodiak Wall!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Haha nice work boys! i was watching you guys for a bit yesterday & I could hear someone making all kinds of unearthly sounds combined with earthly profanities up there while i was laying on my crash pad in the sanctuary of the boulders smoking doobs & napping.... I was jealous, nice work.
What's next for SOCK or SOCC? U guys should try the little 10a to the right...Kneewrecker always sounded like a fun one.
Although not obscure, the Flake rarely gets climbed & is a good exercise in Chimmney climbing.
I think Tall, Skinny people would also qualify. Perhaps someone on here knows about that one??
Looks extra greasy and obscure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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@Ryan D- That inappropriate explosion of profanities would have been from Big Mike the Flounderer, he was cursing a whining all day. Tall Skinny people and Tantalus Crack are definitely on the list as well.
The Flake is Heinous, as must do for any aspiring grovelmaster.
NEW ACRONYM; Thanks to the help of Tami, Bruce And Relic
EDIT; Squamish Totally Uber-Obscura Chimney Klub; STUCK!
I was working on that all morning, I guess I just had to perfect the ratio of coffee to cannabis
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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I've done Flake Route, Kneewrecker, and YPLS. So there!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Anders the only way in is to participate in an obscure outing.
Well that makes him your patron saint
I mean he has to come on an obscure outing with the recently founded S.T.U.C.K. organization.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Kneewrecker is a great pitch. Did it years ago while in another incarnation of the STUCK SUCK SOCKS. Very much filled with gravel in places but for sure it's a gooder and a fine ending to Ghostdancing.
Big "Eddie Murphy" Mike's frothingly f$ck filled monologue must have rang out loud and proud thru the parking lot. Lol the poor children.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 10, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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STUCK= so good! HAHAHA
Well, from the photo's on here Big Mike looks like a tall, skinny person so presumptuously he would be your full span specialist? Seems like a more prestigious position than the flounder, possibly more beneficial to the club as well!
Anyways i'm going climbing before it rains!!
Will try to think of more recommends for STUCK while sport climbing....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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I must admit, wet dirty cracks are not really my thing.
Combined with the fact that i have very little chimney experience, and Luke wanted to leave half the gear in the truck, maybe i got a little frustrated.
Stuck is right! I barely got into the squeeze at the chockstone and had to grind literally to make progress.
I hope the little kids ears survived. "EARMUFFS!"
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 10, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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Ya it would have been much easier without the slippery brown goo inside those steep hand jams. Aside from the not so flattering adjectives used to describe YPLS, it is a great and memorable climb, oozing or not.
Luke whee want pictures!!
Slickity Jim's Chat & Chew is calling me for brunch...
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MH2
climber
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Apr 10, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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It's great to see the fun and funny continue. Thanks to all for recent contributions.
Having looked deeeep into Tall Skinny People from its new neighbor New Life, I couldn't really see the route. Ok, it is a chimney, but you'd have to be 20 feet tall to do some sections as chimney.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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It's been almost an hour since Anders wrote...
Colon. (Found it last year...)
And not one of you Squamish trash has made any of the obvious jokes? I can't believe this.
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