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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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The Man from Jackson Hole, a 3 star 10a crack at nordic in Whistler.
A quality climb indeed!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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After I did the Koedt-Rowat on Gladsheim a couple years ago I sent Peter Rowat an email with a pic telling him what a great route I thought it was and he replied something along the lines of "You've brought a tear to this old man's eye."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Speaking of Chic's book there is some story in there about Les McDonald freeing a section of the Grand's lower slabs bolt ladder at 5.crazy hard and none of the current generation of climbers ever being able to even top-rope it again. Chic has the story as a quote from Jim Sinclair (p.243) but perhaps someone else out there can provide more accurate details?
I think this is the section that's shown on the Campbell guide Grand Wall topo (p.54) as running from the 3rd to 5th belay on the bolt ladder slabs as 11+ out left of the bolts. Terrain since partially freed by Boyd as War of the Raptors, 5.12. So was Les McDonald really freeing 5.12 slab back in the 60s?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A photo of Elfrieda (Elfrida?) Pigou, which Ed Cooper posted on another thread.
She was apparently not a tall or big woman, but was quite tough and determined. Amongst other things, she was involved in the FA of North Gully, one of the first 'climbs' on the Chief, in 1958. Probably a week after the highway opened.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Cool Pics and stories OPLOP! I have a feeling we are just scratching the surface of your photo and story archive.
Anders, that Elfrida lady, sounds like she was an amazing person and climber.
So Squamish climbers have a history being in the mountains in the wrong place at the right time, Elfrida, Guy Edwards, is there any others? As some of you might have read on here Big Mike was partially buried just the other day.
Does anyone know the significance of this plaque? I googled the names but couldnt find anything relevant.
Were these guys climbers or loggers?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So Squamish climbers have a history being in the mountains in the wrong place at the right time, Elfrida, Guy Edwards, is there any others?
Many, many others. Too many. Most of them friends of those of us who post here, and I'll not list their names, because I don't need that particular pain right now.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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There is your shannon creek memorial bruce...so kid did you drive to it? Was the road basically ok up till then besides the boulder blockade?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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That photo was from last summer and no we did not drive to it. If I recall correctly it was a km or 2 past the blockade.
If you are wondering about the current road conditions last month the final km to the blockade was too deep to 4x4.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I won't add to this. I've had too many close calls over many years, lost too many friends to avalanches, and there are too many sad memories. Hopefully I did my penance, by teaching introductory avalanche courses for some years, and doing my best to put the fear of god into the students.
Dick Culbert's guide said it best: Avalanches are the #1 killer of climbers and mountaineers in B.C.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I read yesterday that in 1963 two English climbers died in an avalanche close to one of the grit-stone areas near Manchester. A deadly avalanche in England! Who'd a thunk?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Just a heads up; a snowboarder was found upside down in a tree well (in bounds) on Blackcomb today. Unresponsive when pulled out and air evac-ed to the hospital. Unfortunately he didn't make it.
Just a reminder that the snow is still very deep in the trees, and riding them alone is not in anyones best interests.
Unfortunately, all too relevant to the current topic of discussion :(
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Just a heads up; a snowboarder was found upside down in a tree well
A reminder that it isn't just avalanches that kill us. We step too far out on cornices. We think we can tell which glaciers require a rope and which don't. We think we know which rivers are safe to cross and which are not.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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..... and it appears that I've killed the thread.
In an effort to revive it, and bring it out of the somber atmosphere, allow me to pose the question: What's the history of Freeway? Was it an aid climb before a free climb? When was it first done? I'd like to get at it sometime this season.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Try not to take any Sig like whippers on it.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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..and I tweaked my knee today playing at the Duffey when I should have known better...sucks using non releasable tele bindings....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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What's the history of Freeway? Was it an aid climb before a free climb? When was it first done? I'd like to get at it sometime this season.
Can't help with Freeway, but in the interest of keeping the thread going (it's a great thread) here's a trivia question. What route was tentatively named the "Trans-Continental Nailway" before the first-attempters abandoned it and lost the right to name it? Hint: it had lots of nailing on it back in the mists of time....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Hint: it had lots of nailing on it back in the mists of time....
That's not much of a hint. Pretty much everything at Squamish that wasn't on the Apron back in the mists of time had lots of nailing on it.
I think after the obligatory trip up Slab Alley, my second climb was Mushroom. On which I learned to remove pitons. Dozens of them.
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MH2
climber
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A route called Transcontinental Nailway was done in the Gunks in 1961 by Joe Fitschen and Art Gran. It was freed in 1965 by Jim McCarthy and is now sometimes called Freeway.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Horrors of Ivan. 5.10 c/d when Peter first put it up.
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