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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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So I may or may not have busted something in my hand a week ago; it's still sore so might impede by ability to climb right now..... Should probably get it checked out. Anyways, depending on when that is feeling better, and the weather improves, anyone want to give a go up the Grand? Can't think of a better first multipitch to start the season.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Would have taken ya up on the offer but me and my girl were on Two rats and a titmouse when ya texted me. Next week.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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I climbed the big slick with the late great Guy Edwards back in 2002. I led the crux but took a whipper, it was desperate and the next 5.11 pitch back into freeway was runout and scary, Guy made it seem easy and casual. he had a knack for making scary shite seem facile.
we finished with guy onsighting the upperlevels variation.
a great day was had on freeway, RIP Guy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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What happened to guy?
Also anybody got stories about sig isaac? He was fast when did he arrive in squamish, from where, how did he get so fast
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Guy Edwards and John Millar disappeared during an attempt on the north face of the Devil's Thumb in spring 2003. They're missed.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Bummer, was that before or after krakauers repeat ?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I believe that Krakauer soloed the east ridge in 1977, after failing in an attempt on the north face. The north face has never been climbed.
Google is my friend, eh?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Thanks Anders! Hey you ever gonna tell us the story of the FFA of papoose 1?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You'd have to check with Glenn on that one. Eric and I believed in 1974 that we'd done the FFA of Papoose One, following the exact original route. But Glenn mentioned a year or two ago that he and Tim had done it in 1967 or 1968. Who knew?
I could tell you about the SFA, if you wanted. And the FFA of Limbo. Not tonight, though - I have invoices to do and gondolas to fight.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Alice Purdey on Papoose I, 1965. Alice was one of several strong women climbing at Squam in the early-mid 1960s.
Note the cool clothing. Note the crappy footwear.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The Papoose in the rain, a few days ago. Papoose One in right centre. I always liked climbing there. It's interesting, featured rock, and a comfortable size.
Scrubber will be pleased to see his handiwork is visible, although in dry weather it'll probably be much less so.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Hello everyone from me and my cast of Vegas locals at Christmas Tree Pass, NV ! Kinda like Joshua Tree only worse granite, but at least we were the only people there
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Cool pic nails; Was Alice one of the first ladies to climb at Squamish or what? Where is she now?
But my guide book clearly states that you, might hiker, did the FFA, I thought history was set in stone and thT books were always right... Hmm
Interestingly enough dr barley has finally been mentioned in this thread, I was starting to believe he was an urban legend like the easterbunny or the pope.
History is a neat thing it can be manipulated by who ever is sharing it, intentionally or unintentionally
Why does no one ever shares stories about km and rb, the only mention of them in Anders history project ( and this is if I'm reading between the lines correctly) "There were two brits who did some energetic stuff"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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About robin, as aggrevating as he has been at times I have always contended that his contributions have far outweighed his rough applications. A classic example of this under appreciation is the Green River Bastion.
He also played a big role at Skaha. And climbed a couple of mountains.
And if you want Brits mixed in with your history, you really should not forget John Howard. His name isn't on a whole lot of Squamish FAs, but he had a huge role in the growth of climbing energy at Squamish in the late 60s early 70s. RIP old friend.
And, as has been mentioned above, the ultimate British engergizer bunny was Peter Shackelton. I'll try to summon the energy required to provide a few stories once I'm over this f*#king cold, and finished with this month's f*#king press deadline.
In fact, if you think about it for more than 30 seconds, you realize that the early history of Squamish climbing was deeply influenced by Brits. There was a big influx of ex-Brits to the Vancouver area at that time, and a lot of them were working-class slobs with a bad attitude about management and incredible drive on the rock (Okay, except Barley, who was definitely not working-class). We like to look at Squamish history through a Canadian lens -- Culbert and crew, Tricouni, Hamie, then the Hard Core, and so on, but the contribution of British immigrants is impressive.
And no one could party harder.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Possibly the first person to climb at Squamish was from England, though long before the ones you mention. He also did some climbs in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The other person, again long before the 1970s, was Joe Turley, an immigrant who worked at the mill in Woodfibre and who was probably the first climber who actually lived in Squamish.
There was an English element during the 1960s, but the US contribution was larger, and there were occasional other influences (Mather, Bertulis, Patterson, etc). Hamie and Tricoui can elucidate - noting that Hamie's roots are English, although he may not have started climbing in England. Dick Willmott and Ashlyn Armour-Brown also, IIRC.
The next English climbers arrived in 1970 or so. People like George Waite, Peter Rowat, John Wurflinger, John Howard, and Roger Griffiths. Their names may not be much in the guidebooks, but they and others were definitely around. Barley and McLane arrived soon after, and Milward and Shackleton in the later 1970s.
A complex tapestry.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Alice wasn't the first woman to climb at Squamish. She climbed mostly with Dick Culbert but did a few routes with me and with others. Alice is known mainly as a mountaineer, not a rock climber. She was married to Dick for a while (her children are Vance & Heather Culbert, no mean climbers in their own right). Like MH, she has been active in the BCMC for many years and, like MH, is an Honourary Member of that club.
Possible the first was Ann Mackenzie, who was on the 1st ascent (with Jim Baldwin & Jim Sinclain, 1961) of the Panic Route (on what we called Eleven Bolt Rock) near the base of the Grand Wall.
Mavis McCuaig started climbing at S in, I think, 1962. She climbed mainly with Hamie and to a lesser extent with me. Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side is probably her best-known climb (1965). Maeve might have have been the closest precursor to Tami, in terms of her drive and interest and was probably the first woman to consider herself a serious rock climber. She wasn't much interested in mountaineering but did a few things locally.
I've probably missed a few. Time to put a pot of coffee on....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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McDonald?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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FFA of Papoose One. Sometime in period from fall 1968 to spring 1970, Tim was back in town from Canmore for a visit. He and headed up to the Papoose (we both had fond memories of it) to do Beckey's Hallucination Route. I recall that we found that the bottom 2 original bolts were chopped -- aid bolts at the time, so we wandered over to Papoose One, which I'd done a couple of times before (once with Alice).
I don't remember that we used any aid on it, but my notes from those years are lost and Tim doesn't have any. I was as good a free climber as I was ever going to be, which isn't saying much, and Tim was as strong as always. I also don't remember it being super-desperate, just a great, highly enjoyable day on the rock (my last great day at Squamish for quite a few years, as it turned out). At the time, I was certainly good enought o do it free.
So I can't say definitively that we did the FFA. Memory fails, and, to be honest, I didn't pay as much attention to FFAs as I should have. This is why Kevin gives FFA of Diedre as unknown (but I might fix that in another post), and why I don't know who made FFA of Slab Alley (possibly brother Bob). So, if I were writing a guidebook, I'd say FA: Fred & Eric B, FFA: Anders & Eric W, but possibly done earlier. A & E probably did the first clean ascent, because Tim & I used pitons.
That's more than anybody wants to know, I'm sure, but there it is.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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I thought history was set in stone and thT books were always right... Hmm
kid, I assume you had tongue in cheek when writing that. I've always thought that history is in part a product of the mind that's creating it, and that different people will write different histories. And I've always thought that guidebooks are often wrong (look at Kevin's guide to do with Hanging Gardens, and O. Hanging Gardens....) Problem is: you never know beforehand where the errors are.
The history that MH is working on, though, will be error-free, I'm sure.
Frank Smythe had an interesting comment on guidbooks; I'll have to hunt it down.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tami, like you, I've always admired and really liked Alice. Still do. It's a little known fact that Alice's mother and my mother were friends from the time I was two years old until Alice's mom died, maybe 7 years ago. Lived in different parts of the country, but kept in touch at Christmas, always.
Alice is hard at work on a revision of "109 Walks" for the BCMC and the publisher. She'll do a great job.
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