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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Rosholt and I drilled our way up the express lanes on freeway. Mucho classic.
John also did The Big Slick. Another 5 star route.
I'm wondering if he did the ffa of clean crack? Anders will know.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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Another round of excellent tales. I almost went to Index last year. Sandra has a friend who lives quite close, so we were going to go one weekend last summer, then of course it pissed rain that weekend.. This summer.
Ryan D- Glad you liked it. Nice pic of Dave on "Run Like a Thief", anyone remember the fa story on that one? Something about finding someone's "garden" sunning on top of the cliff?
I haven't hit Red Nails yet. Maybe Tami or PC himself could tell us something about the fa?
Took this one last Sunday on the way down the Apron
According to KM 2001 guide John Rosholt and Randy Atkinson did the FFA of clean crack in 1977 probably not long after Anders cleaned it. Who did the FA? KM has it Unknown.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 31, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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To continue Tricouni's tale of carousing in Cashmere.....
.... Moral of the story: Never underestimate US 'beer'. If you drink too much it will make you sick--but not drunk!
My recollection is that Eric Bjornstad owned a coffee shop in Seattle, not Leavensworth, but it was a long time ago. He was a frequent partner for Uncle Fred, and is now the major desert climbing guru, and has written lotsa guides to the desert climbing areas. Nice guy.
Hamie, I remember Eric's coffee shop in Seattle, in the University District, IIRC. Eric is indeed a really nice guy. For a Squamish connection, he was with Fred on the FA of Papoose One, lower 1/2 of Angel's Crest, and a couple of things on Nightmare Rock. Maybe it was another climber who had the place in Leavenworth with all sorts of climbing pics on the walls.
Barf seems to crop up frequently in Leavenworth stories. One night, we left the Cashmere pub when it closed and drove back to the P. Pinnacles. Two or three of us decided that an unroped, post-midnight ascent of Orchard Rock was in order. I started up the regular route on the west face, carrying about a gallon of cheap beer and bad chinese food in my stomach. About 3/4 of the way up, I didn't feel so good and ralphed the entire gallon down on the route below. The others declined to come up, leaving me to complete the climb and descend the easy east-side gully on my own.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 31, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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I bet kid and big mike are wondering what we're talking about with apple orchards and so on
And that's before we even mention The Trigger Finger.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 31, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Shackleton!
Now there's a Squamish legend. I'm offline for the next couple of hours, but I expect about ten Pete Shack stories when I check back in. Maybe starting with the van rollover on the descent from Habrich.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Pre-Fantini you mean?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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burning down the chesterfield?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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The list of Robin Barley's apprentices/rope-guns is a very long one.
Shack has always been great fun. Tami had a significant birthday a few years ago, and I 'treated' her by sending a message to all her old pals, including Pete and Joyce, who she'd lost contact with. Mentioning the event, and providing contact information. I think Pete was one of those who sent her surprise greetings, probably from a yacht somewhere in the South Pacific.
I wonder if he and Guido have crossed paths?
I last saw Peter and Joyce at a coffee shop in Squamish, IIRC two years ago.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I've heard it called "burning down the love seat"
@ 11c If u only go to the lost hwy anchors.
Someone mentioned Cosgrove on here & what
He did in Squam, the other day @ pet wall I was
Talking with a long time local guide & he told me a
Cool story from back when he was 15 trying to redpoint
Elastic man & Cosgrove was putting bolts in on what
Would later become Lost Highway, the hardest climb
At pet for a while, I always thought bourdon bolted it
& was unaware that it was an abandoned Cosgrove project
For some time, must be tough if the guy who freed the
Grand bailed on it.
He said that they got talking & that Coz claimed Pet
Wall as the best granite face climbing on the planet!
Not a bad claim coming from a very prolific Granite climber.
I didn't ask if he was rap bolting!!
Sorry for the second hand story but with all the chesterfield
Talk & the mention of Cosgrove I thought it was appropriate.
Edit: Bruce, awesome nose story! Did you ever get a chance
To go back up there?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I'm sure Bruce climbed the Nose, but more importantly he climbed the grand the other day, as did the scrubber. Great to see people rippin it up even when there's snow on top of the mighty Chief.
Even if we do live under a rock up here, we sure have a hell of a backyard to play in.
Oh ya, speaking of John Rosholt's new routing. He also fired a worthy pitch in the freeway roof area. He led the first roof, through those two overlaps,and then instead of hanging a left to get to that belay, he kept going straight up. It's a shallow corner up there, not too bad, and then you join right in with the finish of that next pitch. Quite a nice line and the rope runs really well.
John loved that freeway area and if he's returned as one of those cool Ravens, he'll be one of those that flies in and hassles you when you're at that belay in the cave.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Oh my, I'm "the scrubber" now? I think I'll get a napalm orange spandex superhero outfit made!
There's nowhere to hide you nefarious moss and weeds! The Scrubber is one of the team of superheros known as the Agents of Erosion.
I need more coffee. I don't even know where that came from....
K
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I was keep to go for a rip up there yesterday morning but could not find a willing n' capable partner; not a drop of rain until 2pm.
Big mike was scared of rain, and Aislinn was sic...
Poor me:(
Here's a little slide my buddy Dave made of his first trip up the grand
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Edit.. Leading the sword was my 2nd 5.11 ever, the first one didn't go smooth either, Bruce posted my ultra flail up thread.
2nd edit: it's pretty neat, as mike mentioned up thread, Henkel taught him and Kyle a lot about climbing 10 years ago, then mike introduced me to climbing, then I met Henkel randomly in the revelstoke backcountry and we've been on many of adventures since, most of them over our heads
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Ya you're the scrubber, says so right beside that little picture.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Luke, I wasn't scared of the rain. You started coming up with all these conditions, so it didn't sound like you were really interested in having me as your partner that day, plus I was supposed to go sledding.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Excuses are like a$sholes Mikey; everyones got one and they all stink! you can say what you want but you kno that I know you were scared.:p
I'm gonna start calling ya light mike the fair weather climber
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Oh I'm pretty sure. I remember John and the Chief did it. Plus some brit. joined John one day. Look at the current state of skills around here; I'm sure that thing gets climbed.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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I'm choosing not to respond so this doesn't become just another typical stuportopo thread.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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If you're ever looking for a spare adventurist Luke, let me know. That is, if you're willing to climb with me based on what you've heard.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Let's make it happen Nate, As long as your not made of sugar, like "light mike".
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Haha, I wouldn't mind climbing with either one of you. Just let me know what works.
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