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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 30, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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thanks Tami.
I guess these days it's Honnold and few others. Didn't Tommy Calwell and Beth Rodden repeat Coz's FFA? Really too bad about the lack of reverse flow 70s and 80s. Did Squamish climbers go to Index?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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... Did Squamish climbers go to Index?
Vancouver climbers started going to Leavenworth in the very early 1960s. We mostly climbed at the Peshastins but also at Castle Rock and, rarely, Snow Creek Wall. I don't think Index was developed until a little later. But the Peshastins and Castle Rock were excellent fun and we met many of the Seattle locals there, including many who (to the best of my knowledge) never climbed at Squamish.
Generally we made 2 trips a year. One was during the November long weekend (called Remembrance Day up here)when conditions on the coast were almost always crappy. It could be chilly east of the Cascades, but weather was almost always good, and there were usually lots of apples around to high-grade. The spring trip was usually in May, when the apple blossoms were out. This tradition went on through the 1960s, at least as late as 1968.
We usually hit up REI in Seattle on Friday night, crashed in the gardens near St. Marks Cathedral or out by Monitor Rock in West Seattle. Next day, it was off to the Leavenworth area. We generally crashed in the orchard at the base of the Peshastins (this was before the park). When it got dark, we headed to the pubs in Cashmere, or hit up Eric Bjornstad's restaurant/pub (I think it was Eric...) in Leavenworth. Sunday night we headed back to Canada, usually with a zillion $$ of outdoor gear that we had tried to make look used enough so that Canada Customs wouldn't be suspicious.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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We carried on that Leavenworth tradition in the eighties, only we'd just wander around REI looking at all the cool stuff. No money, no funny.
But we were there, posing. Might've splurged for a mountain mag.
Had to save our ameribuck$ for der breakfast, das dinner, and dem beers.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 30, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Yo Yo Yo homies shame 'bout all the crack gittin wet up tere all da time.
Must be hard to light.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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if you're still in red rocks, Bruce, how about a little csi on what happened to John Rosholt? Can one even hike to the top of Texas Hold'em?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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yo Hamish, got a couple questions for ya about Senate Seat.
Did you rest on gear to put that bolt in?
If so, is that still considered a first free ascent, resting on gear or hooks to place a bolt but free climb all the moves?
EDIT; passing that bolt looks like the crux to me but you said up thread its hardest at the top
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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Cosmic told me they found him in kind of a spot you would not normally go, something like a ledge at the bottom of a crevice / fissure. Maybe send a pm to Russ Walling or someone like that and they could answer questions for you.
Killer photos Jim !
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 30, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Hi Luke. I'm 99% sure drilling that bolt wasn't too tough. Where the crack dies out... that's where the hard stuff starts. It has been 17 years though. The way I remember, the climbing around that bolt area doesn't come close to what's up ahead. Take a bunch of r.p.s, if they still make them.
Question #2: In the rule book that I was issued, no, it wouldn't be a free ascent if you drilled the bolt while hanging on a hook. But when you go to the ground and pull the rope, then you're ready to free it. Ideally the bolts don't have any clips hanging off 'em iether; but we're starting to split a few hairs here. Especially if there's only one bolt on the pitch. You've gotta pull the rope though, that's for sure.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Funny thing was that if you had the mental control and the skills to place a hook (while free climbing), put some weight on it, drill a bloody bolt, and not have a complete meltdown; well, next time up, clipping it seemed pretty easy. Just had to get there.
How 'bout those Canucks...5-2 !
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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Ya, Schnieder is really good. He doesn't even need hooks.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 31, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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We carried on that Leavenworth tradition in the eighties, only we'd just wander around REI looking at all the cool stuff. No money, no funny.
But we were there, posing. Might've splurged for a mountain mag.
Had to save our ameribuck$ for der breakfast, das dinner, and dem beers.
Hey, Hamish: glad the Leavenworth pilgramage carried on for a while. At the time, REI was the ONLY place to get gear. MEC didn't exist, and nobody sold ice axes, crampons, pitons, etc. in Vancouver. So the semi-annual trip to REI was a major focus of the trip.
Like you guys, we didn't have much money. But the Cana-clam was worth more than the Yankeebuck in those days, so we got a bit more out of it. Like you, we had to save or $$ for the all-important beer and pizza.
Like your generation, we had more than our share of car adventures on those trips.... but that would lead to serious thread drift.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 31, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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To continue Tricouni's tale of carousing in Cashmere.....
One year, after several hours of serious drinking, one of the Early Squamish Climbers [TE] was feeling rather queasy, and so staggered outside and sat in his car to get some fresh air. The local sheriff came over to ask some questions. TE opened the car door, and barfed on the sheriff's shoes. He was seriously unamused. Having ascertained that TE had accomplises, and where they were located, the sheriff entered the bar and ordered all of us out of town. He also said something about never returning as well. Just like in the Old West! Rather than risk a lynching, tar and feathers or a rope at dawn, we all left. Pronto. But we did return next year.
Moral of the story: Never underestimate US 'beer'. If you drink too much it will make you sick--but not drunk!
My recollection is that Eric Bjornstad owned a coffee shop in Seattle, not Leavensworth, but it was a long time ago. He was a frequent partner for Uncle Fred, and is now the major desert climbing guru, and has written lotsa guides to the desert climbing areas. Nice guy.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 31, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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I suppose that you could call this a story about shopping at REI. Somehow several of us ended up at one of the university residences in north Seattle. I have no idea why. It was late, and the chesterfields in the communal area looked pretty comfortable. We stretched out and enjoyed a good sleep.
On our next trip we did the same thing. This time we were busted by the custodian, in the middle of the night. Disappointed and sleepy, we headed to the parking lot, and the three of us spent the rest of the night in our VW bug. Not nearly as relaxing as the first time.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 31, 2012 - 03:23am PT
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Me again.....
As close to bouldering as we came. Monitor Rock, Seattle. Dick Culbert on the left, and I think that's Gordie [Stickman] Dunham on the right. One of the first climbing walls, this one is outside.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 05:06am PT
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Awesome photo Hamie! and everyone else! this thread is really awesome these days, i haven't been on here for a few & there's so much awesome sh1t to read, thanks everyone for posting. Leavenworth is a great getaway I always try & get there a few times per year. So nice to chill by the river when it's probably pissing in Squamish.
Another PY shot, nice, and an awesome Dave photo in Skaha big Mike.
I didn't think i had any Henkel shots but came across one on my phone
just now from one day down at high cliff. I first climbed with Dave in Cali maybe 5 years ago
as he was travelling with a good buddy of mine and we ended up camping in the buttermilks for about 3 or 4 weeks & got up to all kinds of GT's! Dave is a smooth cat for sure
& a funny guy to be around.
Speaking of High Cliff anyone here done Red Nails? I tried it the day i took this photo
with my Ushba & it was really painful & awkward. Wasn't sure if i was doing it wrong
or what?! Thought it was stout for the bluffs. I'm guessing the name had something to
with the pain from the crack?
Hanging gardens looks like a good time! Thanks Scrubber! Nice work Luke & Mike getting after it in the rain! Yo Luke i'd like to head up to respiration some time for sure, never done any of those so let me know when ur heading there, looks fun.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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We never got kicked outta Leavenworth but Ranger Bob kicked us out of Heuco Tanks. The guy was a real piece of work.
It had been a rough week, what with the space shuttle exploding and all. The late, GREAT John Rosholt and I had just survived soloing some 300' classic,(on-site,Luke) and we were sitting on John's tailgate. John was drinking a beer when the "sherrif" came by.
"No beer drinking in public... you're banned from the park for 48 hrs."
Well we didn't have a clue what anyone was going to do for a couple days in El Paso, Texas, so we hopped in his 4-runner and pinned it back to Vegas.
Not a squamish story, but Ranger Bob had a reputation. Jerk.
R.I.P. John.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Maybe I'll be banned for excessive thread drift. Oh well, I've enjoyed my five minutes.
I've just been chuckling to myself, remembering soloing that classic route with John. We spotted it from the parking lot and figured, what the hell, how hard can it be? It was every climber's dream, beautiful heucos (holes) running right up the whole wall, maybe 300'. The route steepened up for the final 50 or 75 feet, naturally this was the crux. Exposed, to put it mildly.
John stayed about 20' below me the whole time and wouldn't stop talking.
Like my 8 year-old, when he's really happy,like on a bikeride, he just rambles on. John was pretty stressed, and kept babbling away. He kept asking for a "full report" up there. He'd even ask how the holds were. Poor guy was feeling the air beneath him a little too much. Then for the final steep bit, he was yammering about the possibility of down climbing. I kept telling him it wasn't that bad, the holds were pretty good, try to relax, bla-bla-bla. You know, the things you say to keep your friends alive.
We topped out and John kept yammering the whole way down... he couldn't crack that beer fast enough. And along comes Sheriff Puffy-Chest.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 31, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Haha, sweet stories fellas, cops have a tendency, in my experiences, to be dick heads...
Ryan I'm heading up there for the day today, you're welcome to come by!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 31, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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Hey Luke, thanks for the invite, wasn't expecting that so quick! Let us know how it goes. I don't think my domestic duties will permit me getting up there today but i'm PMing you my # right now for next time.
Hamish F et all, how did you guys meet John Rosholt? It seems he definitely spent some time here, played a role in some Squamish new routing & was a great partner, friend & human from what i've read on this site & elsewhere. Anyone have a Squamish Rosholt classic/obscurity that they would like to recommend?
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perswig
climber
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Mar 31, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Chesterfields, ottomans, divans, oh my!
Next you'll be on about chifforobes.
Or not.
Carry on.
Dale
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