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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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We'll put a bolt in there for ya and you can ground up it? Oxymoron.
I mean he can on site it.. or try too, it looks f*#king HARD
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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O.K., fair enough. I have to keep reminding myself how much more difficult the climbs are these days, as compared to the last century.
Gotta go let my velociraptor out for a walk...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
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Thanks for sharing that with us TAMI! I'm sure big mike will be stoked, seeing as a few days after your presentation he calls me to say;
'Hamish Gets the Milk' isnt even in any of those books Tami sold us, what a rip off, these are going straight into to the bird cage
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Bahaha thanks Tami!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 28, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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RIP Andy Burnham. A very good man ....
Climbed with Cosmic Cragsman here the other day, another very good man. My first "real" trad leading in 15 years. The Cosmic rack weighed about 40 pounds, doubles on every cam including the largest sizes available. I also saved and placed the kitchen sink for the belay. Cosmics biners are all original Chouinards, and could go straight in to a museum tomorrow.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Hey there, say, BMACD...
Was it you who tipped the RCMP off that we were up at the papoose
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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What's the fastest time on Bellygood? For a human that is.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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^^ depends who and what you are doing ^^
Kiddo - surrender now, before the new laws are passed
Meanwhile in Las Vegas ..... ;-)
The lights are so bright I gotta wear shades
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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I realize there are different divisions and weight categories - just curious in general.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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Reilly; not sure what the time to belly good is, but Honald and Mason Earle did a 59minute lap up to the top of the roman chimneys, shaving something like 8 or 9 minutes of the old top speed. Pretty Damn impressive!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
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Ryan D-
Dave?
Dave Henkle on Doctors Wall, Skaha. Not sure which route, guesses?
Dave was our first real link to the climbing community. He climbed with Gary Mcfarlane and his friends. Dave showed us a lot of good tricks we didn't know, and helped us refine our techniques.
He also taught me a lot about trad leading just by watching him climb. He would rest on gear if he absolutley needed to or downclimb back to his gear rather than risk a big fall. He would get us on stuff that was above our heads, but we would allways figure it out..
All the Jim Baldwin talk the other day reminded me of this photo I took on Sunday.
I love memorial ledge. It's such a cool place to hang out, have some lunch, and soak up the Sun and the atmosphere.
I took this one for Big Jim to tide him over till we get him up there.
We took some pictures of Hanging Gardens the other day, but I am witholding most of them for the upcoming mini tr.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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whoaaaa. That story is heavy indeed--tossed out lightly. First, the passion (just the concept of wearing worn out shoes on wrong feet for better edging; yes HF forgot to in this case, reading comp intact), second the titanium balls to follow PC up a climb that size. Third, the bigger titanium balls--and more importantly boundless enthusiasm and optimism--to take a near-shoeless, less able climber up a solo of that magnitude. Wow. Great stuff.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Does that mean you're going to keep us Hanging?
The quote is from Walt Whitman's Leaves of Grass, IIRC. The plaque was placed by the Cacodemon Climbing Club in 1965. Hamie and Tricouni could perhaps say more.
The "EBs on the reverse feet" trick was popular in the early 1980s. I remember Peter earnestly persuading Richard of the merits of the idea, sitting below Xodus and Tourist Delight, in about 1982. Richard seemed to think it was a practical joke, but then it worked for him.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
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Hamish F- Eddie is a velociraptor now? :)
Tami- THANK YOU! I tried so hard to read that one at your show but you went so darn fast! :) I got the jist but I love the little details so it is really nice to be able to read it properly. I would never put your books in my bird's cages, they are much more suitable for my hamsters.
JUST KIDDING they are cherished treasures to be re-read especially Avalanche Poodles. You could do a whole book on that gag.. maybe team up with Avalanche.ca? :)
Scrubber- Heck ya it made me feel special. :) It is so nice to climb a freshly cleaned granite crack with texture vs a polished classic. How many parties climbed it BITD was it popular?
Here is a sneak peak of some nice cracks on Hanging Gardens.
Pitch 1
Pitch 2
Pitch 3
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Anders is gonna set the record straight and hammer out a farkin' fab book on all these guys. Arn't you Anders???
The person/peon formerly known as 'Anders' has entered a witless protection program.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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+1 Tami though I agree with that statement about shoes on opposite feet. You gotta love climbing to go to those lengths :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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O.K., I was "less able" but I did make it back to the hut well before lunch. Surely I get a few points for that?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 28, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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Head Standards, Ramy Securus bindings, double leather lace ups, all second hand. Worked fine for getting started BITGOD.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
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Thank god I'm only size 13 or finding shoes would be a nightmare. Somehow I don't ever see wearing opposite shoes being physically possible.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 28, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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Try a leader fall on the swami-belt. Oweeeeee. (2"webbing)
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