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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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Oct 14, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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From what I can see, "modern ethics" just means you think you're special enough to go f&&k up whatever you want whenever you want. In other words, NO ethics at all and low impact practices can go f**k themselves.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 14, 2015 - 12:24pm PT
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Yep "modern ethics" means drilling bolt ladders around crux pitches.
Woot! Stoke! Buy my book! Yosemite rulz, codgers drool!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Oct 14, 2015 - 06:43pm PT
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Love the #marketing response, lol.
Mike Ousley, Mike. above, is, like Eric Kohl, a person who has different ethical beliefs than the majority of people who climb in Yosemite. I'm psyched that you and Eric participate in the discussion Mike. I don't feel the need to try to convince every other person to have the beliefs that I do.
Kev - Patience grasshopper, the swing will be back up soon. Alex Honnold donated a 100m static line to whatever cause I thought was best for it. I put that rope on the Heart Ledges, which could still use another 100m of rope if anyone has that lying around. The traffic on the Salathe/Freerider has been incredible, so no doubt many grateful climbers out there these days.
Yosemite has been held hostage by old codger attitudes that are gradually being replaced by modern climber ethics, like having well marked trails and bolted belays(sponsored climbers like Kevin Thaw and Mark Synott defied Eric Kohl in the early 2000s by bolting natural belays on his A5 routes on El Cap. Why should the easy routes be any different?), and bolts where only pitons or copperheads fit on clean bigwall routes. Climber impact in Yosemite is inevitable. Today's climbers are trying to do their best to preserve the cliff for future generations.
Mike - re: the idea to reuse the original bolt holes when replacing bolts. After 17 years of continuous bolt replacement here in Yosemite(over 2,000 bolts!), I feel that original holes are nearly always worn around the outer edge and should not be reused. This wearing of the bolt hole is the leading cause of bolt failure(with falls, or over time, the bottom edge of a bolt hole breaks or gets bigger, and this is how bolts commonly fail - they start to slip out of the hole, they bend over the widened hole-bottom, and break). How many years have you been replacing bolts Mike? How many have you replaced?
Yosemite is as awesome as ever. Living and working here has been an honor and I look forward to the climbing community coming together more, and dealing with sometimes sensitive issues in a way that makes us all appreciate each other more, and to grow stronger as a whole.
Woot Woot!
So much for "standing on the shoulders of the giants",
or "respecting the FA".
It's just "old codgers" now, is it.
Many of us are unconvinced, Woot guy.
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RyanD
climber
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Oct 14, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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Erik Sloan has probably the best strategy in all of supertopo history for dealing with his haters. It makes me lolololololol every time.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 15, 2015 - 06:01am PT
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Safe trails is like saying safe sex when an opportunity presents it's self. The participants may have the best of intentions but Mother Nature has the final decision.
Jim, your analogy cracks me up.
Good morning, and please Eric, don't use the w-word today.
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Heisenberg
Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:07am PT
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Erik
You are by far the most disrespectful, condescending, self righteous and narcissistic climber (sadly) the world has to see. You provide only an example of the kind of person never to become.
Worse you peed in a dirty pond and reproduced so we can only hope he NEVER follows in your footsteps.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Oct 15, 2015 - 08:12am PT
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Kevin Thaw and Mark Synott defied Eric Kohl in the early 2000s by bolting natural belays on his A5 routes on El Cap.
Which routes, what pitches? I've climbed with both of those guys and I really doubt they would add bolts to a route unless there was a really good reason....not just because it was a "natural belay", and I doubt they were trying to defy Klaus. But hey I wasn't there...I'd love to hear the whole story.
Adding bolts to where there are only copperhead or piton placements? Now that's fµcked up....
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Oct 15, 2015 - 09:29am PT
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Not having been to the Valley in many years, I was a bit perplexed by this thread. Seemed that Sloan's detractors were probably making a big deal over (relatively) little things, maybe being a bit too cliquish. I figured he'd eventually show up and and make a reasonable argument.
But now that Sloan's had his say, it's clear that it really is better to stay silent and be thought a total fcukstick, than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt. He thinks that "modern climber ethics" require the infantilization of all other climbers. A Bowdlerization of the sport. Now that he's spoken, it's clear that most of the criticisms are unambiguously valid.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 15, 2015 - 11:42am PT
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A Psychiatrist's wet dream.
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Oct 15, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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Why not directly address each concern brought up? If you don't it seems that they are valid to the uninformed bystander like me. Dodging the questions and maintaining this facade of stoke seems really bizarre in my opinion, nothing personal - just an observation.
edit: In regards to the quote about some manifesto touting the dumbing down of climbs for the masses - if this is true, then the climbing community should understand that this is your intent so they can choose to support it or not.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Oct 15, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Bathsalts Sloany just don't care.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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Fuuny, I've never heard one positive comment about Erik Sloan in all the years I've gone to the valley. A lot of negative stuff though. Now I understand. Thanks for clarifying that Mr Sloan.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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in 2012 Erik Sloan was spotted replacing the missing wall route on Porcelain wall! .. pretty kool hope i can get up that thing heard it's only a1
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Dodging the questions and maintaining this facade of stoke seems really bizarre in my opinion
That bears a repeat bump!
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Scylax
Trad climber
Idaho
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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Sloan's Compressor Route? Seriously, some of the stuff I have read on this thread by Sloan reminds me of Maestri's "work" in Patagonia.😞
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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That woot shit's as dumb as it gets
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 15, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
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It's like Stuart Smalley: "I'm good enough, I'm smart enough, and doggone it, people like me."
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