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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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"Passport to Insanity" in the Grampians of Australia... What a freakin line!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yowza!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Never did it, but it is, um, a favorite picture.
For all you crusty old Eastern Sierra dads: Gong Show Roof!
From Climbing Number 52, January/February 1979
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Feb 12, 2009 - 09:53am PT
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A little bouldering in Utah.
Draper on Green Tea Roof:
having a go:
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Feb 13, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Chapiteau
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bob
climber
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Feb 16, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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Man Tar, that Mesmerized is a big roof. On top rope I gunned to the lip and it gunned me off!!!!! It is a big high step, just to get that thing over with. I took it lightly and it sent me away with a heavy pack. Great shots.
Passport to Insanity looks to be about the best I've seen.
Bob J.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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I second Bob on that passport to insanity. Holy Smokes.
Being a mediocre climber short on time, I never run out of stuff to do that's close to home, but that thing looks worth traveling, and at this point, training for.
Tom
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 16, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
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Tar,
Thanks for the Leary 'Gong Show' shot. Totally classic! Even better in near-life size at Whiskey Creek in Mammoth. Mussy and I tried it about ten years ago. Got to the lip, levering off that TV-sized block at the end of the spooky tooth/rail when both his and my forearms went completely numb. I can swear my ulna was flexing against that block! Anyhow, there's apparently a chip out on the face that makes it much easier. Anyone other than Cilley every try the Bong Show?
***
Boa (kind of a roof; absolutely funky):
Bad Berries:
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 16, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 16, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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Some info on "Passport to Insanity" from an Oz climbing website:
A wild approach requiring a 4wd on the tracks, and good navigation skills on the walk-in. The area is famous for the line "Passport To Insanity" 135m grade 27, which involves a jam crack roof with a downhill angle, which resides 60m off the deck! Aiding the roof drops the free climbing grade to 20. The line has been photographed countless times and labelled the "best climb in Australia" by many.
I believe this route has only had one male ascent, by the infamous "H.B." Supposedly it's very tight for 'boy hands' and the 27 grade(5.12c/d)is apparently for 'girl hands'. Train hard!!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Feb 16, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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Russ, what is this sucker?
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 16, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Looks like "Overhanging Hangover", Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks. Very cool 5.10a break through a huge roof. The super classic "Fiddler on the Roof" comes across the lip of this roof from the left...
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Feb 16, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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Thanks, BrassNuts - throw it onto the ever-expanding list.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Feb 19, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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i believe that's "most bitching"
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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hahaha
'your smart, i'm stupid; your attractive, i'm very unattractive"
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
the outer bitterroots
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Feb 19, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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“Flaring” “OffWidth” “Roof”
three words i have learned to run from. and if i hear then all in a row, i _really_ run.
striking to see how many of you actually seek them out. i promise you will never have to get in line behind me for one.
OTOH “Passport To Insanity” looks ab-fab! and i’m such a skinny twerp that i have verifiable “girl hands” (thanks for the that heads up, BrassNuts). which is why i looked at the 'Finger Cracks' thread long before this one.
hmmm... almost got the air miles to go fall off that. i'm certain my aussie pal lippy knows where it is. if only i knew where lippy is...
great thread, great photos. many thanks.
^,,^
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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Bump for more roof pics!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 22, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
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Bump for even more roof pics, EC on BBBW
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