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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Aug 13, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
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So, will you let us in on this Bobby and his climbing resume?
The two of you sure sound like a great pair of fictional comedic characters: Billy and Bobby go climb a big wall! And have a smoke! Cool Runnings! (Cheech & Chong??)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 13, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
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However it turns out, it should be fun to follow along. Billy stated up-thread that he might write a book--this starts to make sense if that is his trade.
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nb3000
Social climber
Oakland, CA.
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Aug 13, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
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Billy your failure to mention anything regarding suggestions to hire a guide still leaves us believing you are pulling our chain.
I mean it seems like that would be the logical conclusion if you are in fact NOT a troll and had really thought this out.
Nick
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Aug 13, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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I hate to change my opinion, but I've received two seemingly honest emails from this guy now. I pretty sure this isn't a troll. Try giving him good advice rather than BS. He's going to need it.
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nb3000
Social climber
Oakland, CA.
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Aug 13, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
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how many kids in their 20's, especially students, can afford to buy ALL the gear neccessary, AND travel out from Boston - in the space of 1 year?
its probably going to cost ($-wise) roughly the same and hiring a guide would ensure success.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 13, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Hiring a guide ensures being guided, which doesn't meet everyone's criteria for 'success'.
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nb3000
Social climber
Oakland, CA.
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Aug 13, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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maybe it would fit Billy's criteria. maybe not.
lets hear his take
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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Okay,
Hiring a guide, besides (I assume) being financially restrictive, would defeat the purpose a little bit for me. It would be safer and probably make more sense, but I feel like if I have someone capable of dragging me up the wall, then they may as well have. This is kind of a personal challenge for me (and is turning into one for everyone who has already helped so much on this site) and I feel like the more of this I can do alone, the more it will satisfy whatever need is dragging me into it in the first place.
t*r hit the nail on the head, I think.
The entire trip will be expensive, but I have already started saving up, and I think I can get some decent gear for an okay price. Anything that I can compromise on and not die?
Bobby has been wall climbing for about a year, primarily top-roping. We've been friends for a couple of years, and he climbs walls regularly (just quarries and things like that.) Not much of a resume I guess, but his enthusiasm for challenge matches my own, most of the time. He's also good at keeping me on track.
So, back to the diet and the gym.
Not sick of egg whites yet. Or brocolli. And I have lost two pounds. Feel like I am losing muscle mass, though. I can afford a bit, as I was a weight lifter before this idea struck me, but still...
Lower back hurts a little bit, but I'm starting to work some pull-ups and dips into the workout AFTER the cardio stuff (still the elliptical.) I'm worried now about overtraining and the injuries that come from that, but as things hurt I usually rest them.
What should I be buying first for gear? Can I drop a couple hundred and get started anywhere?
Sorry for the delay. Work has been a bear.
billygoat - I appreciate the faith. And the help!
Getting back to climbing El Cap "alone" as I said earlier in this post: To everyone else who has helped out already - I may not hire a guide, but Bobby and I certainly will not be hitting the top of El Cap alone. Without everyone that has helped, I'd be even MORE screwed than I may be already. Thanks.
-Billy
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 14, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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Bobby has been wall climbing for about a year, primarily top-roping.
Who sets the top-rope anchors on his wall climbs?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 14, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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"Feel like I am losing muscle mass, though."
Billy, incorporate some Tuna into that diet. That'll take care of the protein you need to prevent your body from going into shock and eating your muscle mass instead of the fat.
Also, if you are training hard, remember you need to feed your body, in general. Training hard and dieting don't really go hand in hand. The harder you work, the more fuel your body needs. Eat healthy and balanced meals and you'll be fine.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Aug 14, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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You don't even know if you like climbing. Hire a guide at one of your local crags to take you climbing and see if you like it. This will do many MANY things for you. It will help you understand what gear you will need. It will start teaching you the basics. It will help you know more about what you are getting into.
Except for a harness and shoes, buying gear before you have even been on the rock is silly. Go climb. Take pictures, then report back here and if you find the grove and like it based on experience rather then some romantic notion, then there are lots of people who will be more willing to help.
Go to local climbing gym or climbing store and find a local guide. A good guide will cost you from 100 to 200 for a day. This is well worth it as you will learn a lot. Plus if you find you don't like it, then you wont have wasted a bunch of money on gear.
I say go for it, but dang dude, at least try it before you make some grandiose plan based on romantic notions. Climbers love grand plans, but they realize that these plans need to have a dose of reality to them. Now go climb something. Preferably multi pitch. And report back here with pictures.
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 02:15pm PT
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Nefarius - Yeah, the focus so far has been to drop weight. (Salads, oatmeal, etc.) I guess some tuna or skim milk wouldn't hurt me.
nutjob - He is friends with "real" climbers, or he goes to gyms.
How the hell do I size these shoes? I measured my foot and it was 31 centimeters long, but I wear a 10 1/2 normally, and there is a 45 on the inside of my dress shoes...
Also, can I spend less than $100 on shoes?
John - Trying to go this weekend. Will report back with pictures.
-Billy
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 14, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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Haven't bothered to read the prior 123 responses, but...
TROLL!
Why are you people wasting your time?
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Aug 14, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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Your goal is certainly possible, but the learning curve will be steep and painful if you stick to the proposed time frame. The problem is, a "painful" lesson learned in climbing can cost you dearly. Possibly your life. Most people just suffer mercilessly for their n00bage in terms of learning aid systems, hauling, anchor set up, etc., but if there's one place you could really screw the pooch and do something terminally stupid like run your rope over a sharp edge, it's while trying to rush the process of learning big wall skills.
Don't be surprised as you work toward this goal that the more you learn, the more you realize you have A LOT to learn. Don't let pride get in the way of making a good decision to recognize you're biting off more than you can chew, if it comes to that.
Sheer stubbornness and a willingness to suffer has gotten me to the top of a few walls (but it has yet to get me to the top of El Cap). It may be the same for you, and the higher your tolerance for suffering, the greater your chance of success.
Good luck and keep us posted. It should be entertaining.
Ed
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
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Up2top - Yeah, my tolernace for abuse is pretty decent, but I am finding out that this is more than limping across the finish line. It is way more dangerous than that, it seems. The first three or four posts I got concerned death. Mine, specifically. I thought about setting a date or a test to determine whether I will be prepared to fly out to Cali, but haven't cemented that yet.
How do I size shoes? I wanted ot buy a pair before my climb this weekend. Purgatory Chasm, here we come.
-Billy
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Aug 14, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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Man goto f*#king REI and try on some damn shoes. Save more important questions for these guys. BTW, how old are you?
Enjoy purgatory. I take it you will be top roping out there? Goto Quincy and get strong.
-
The Tough Love Department
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 03:14pm PT
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Bobby climbs in Quincy a lot. Maybe that would be a better choice.
I'm 25. It's in the first post.
Right. REI. It was a stupid question, belying an even stupider decision to buy shoes online. My bad.
Bobby does go to the Quarries quite a bit. I think we'll hit that up instead. Or, depending on weather, (God forbid) a climbing gym.
Appreciate the tough love.
-Billy
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Roman
Trad climber
Boston
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Aug 14, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
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Quincy grades are sandbagged to sh#t so you will get strong there. Top ropes are a breeze to set up there as well and would probably save you guys a bit of time on the setup side of things and get you climbing a little more.
Are you a student? EMS gives local students like 15% off with a student ID.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Aug 14, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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Roman just gave you some of the worst advice yet. The chances that someone working at REI will know how to size climbing shoes are slim. I wouldn't trust ANYTHING and REI employee says, as they tend to give inconsistent and often outright wrong advice.
Climbing shoes need to be snug, but not painful. Most likely, your big toe will be curled and your other toes will be slightly bent. In general, you shouldn't have any wiggle room. Also, you need to size shoes based on their material. Shoes made from synthetic leather will stretch far less than real leather (as will shoes with a cloth liner). I would recommend spending less than 100 on your first pair, as your sloppy novice footwork will probably wear out any pair of shoes real fast. Evolve offers some well made (in the USA) introductory shoes in the 70 or 80 dollar range (haven't looked at the prices recently, but I don't think they've gone up much). Ignore all the hype about high performance and what not, just get whatever fits your foot well but tight. If it's leather, get it about a size tighter than you want. If it's synthetic, get it about 1/2 to 1/4 size tighter that you want.
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
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Okay, then. Revision.
I will try/buy the shoes from a real store, not from the internet. If I am not to trust the REI people, though, who can I trust OR what kind of guidance could you give me to make the shoe thing happen?
-Billy
P.S. Not a student anymore. Or yet. Going back. Graduating is important, I've found. Not just enough to go for a couple years. UMASS Boston, baby. Here I come.
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