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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2008 - 12:12am PT
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Hey everybody.
I'm 25 years old, climbed in a gym TWICE ever, a few months ago, and I have decided that I want to climb Lurking Fear next October (2009).
Thoughts, laughs, ideas. Whatever you got would be great.
I'm afraid of heights, I don't know anything about climbing, and I'm out of shape. This is Cool Runnin's style here, but I want to make it happen. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
-Billy
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BWB
Trad climber
Truckee
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Aug 11, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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Dude, BAIL!
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Sascha
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Aug 11, 2008 - 12:58am PT
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Why Lurking Fear? Hire a guide.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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Aug 11, 2008 - 12:59am PT
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"Yer Gonna Die!!!!!1111"
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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Such encouragement so soon is really inspiring.
Impossible?
Implausible?
LOVE the 'Yer Gunna Die' reply, btw. Chuckles.
I was thinking more along the lines of equipment, where to start training, etc...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 11, 2008 - 01:08am PT
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Why ? Unless you have the motivation you won't be able to pull it off.
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Aug 11, 2008 - 01:08am PT
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Go outside and kill yourself,its less work.
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 01:11am PT
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Definitely have the motivation. The suicidal suggestions are really helpful. Really. I was hoping for information, though?
Does anyone consider this possible? If so, ideas for me for the next year to make it happen?
Thanks!
(And I wasn't being cute. I do appreciate the suggestions to walk outside and kill myself.)
-Billy
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 11, 2008 - 01:20am PT
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zeriously,
1) Quit your job
2) Lose weight
3) Get in shape
4) See a shrink about the fear of heights OR
use the time honored system of exposure to heights to lose
the fear.
5) Read every book you can get your hands on abut climin'
6) Hire someone to school you and take you up the route.
That was easy!!!!!
ps...the word trolling comes to mind : )
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 11, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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Oh snap, Lynne is onto the internet tricks of the trade.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 11, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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in all honesty, do you plan on jugging the thing following someone or leading the thing?
In order to "climb" it, in my book, you would have to be a self sufficiant member of a 2 person outfit. Able to lead any cruxes, doing half the work, and able to do some self rescue.
It is possible!
FIRST OFF!
Are you a trust funder? This will be your biggest asset, as you need either a ton of gear or a partner who has a rack big enough to account for it.
OK! Here's what you do!
Buy Supertopo's book "Road to the Nose" and complete as many of those in the few months before your climb (april- june, and then late sept/oct would give you 3 or 4 months of time to do those routes).
Until then! CLIMB CLIMB CLIMB! Often as well! Find a partner who has no life, free time, and PASSION! Go out every weekend to a traditional crag.
-Toprope some climbs
-learn how to place gear and build anchors (via john longs "how to climb" book or Mountaineering: freedom of the hills).
-Follow some routes on gear (multi pitch) and asses the placements and the protection. See what the leader is doing to reduce rope drag and keep him safe.
-Lead on gear, with a second rope as toprope. Get some slack from the top rope and fall a few feet on some placements (good clean falls, no more than 3 or 5 feet).
-Lead some sport routes
-Lead single pitch easy routes
-start upping the grade on both facets
-spend your weekends at crags, building up to a 5.8ish profficiancy. Be COMFY at this grade, where you feel you could climb 5.8 anywhere, anytime.
-Start leading multipitch routes that are easy but require efficiancy. Royal Arches is a good example, or anywhere that has longer routes than 3 or 4 pitches you can access.
-Start aid climbing on C1 cracks. Learn to belay and lead.
-Work at understanding multipitch climbing for walls. How to set up a 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 haul. Find and practice the best technique for jugging (hint - search for PtPP's posts). Buy the Aid Climbing DVD.
-Put all that to practice with the routes listed in Road to the Nose
If you have the time, money and commitment to travel to and complete these tasks, you can easily make it. Its not a factor of how much TIME before you climb a wall, but how you use yer time. Some people climb more in a month than most climbers do in a year. With this understanding, 14 months for you COULD be MORE than enough.
Do it. You can. How sick would that be??? If you're serious enough about it, but need more gear (aid harness, aiders, jumars, etc) send me an email closer to your climbing date. I can let you borrow it if I'm not using it at the time (probably won't be).
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 11, 2008 - 02:18am PT
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oh, and any time at a gym (past learning to belay) is time WASTED! If you need a workout, go on a bike ride or a hike. Time at a gym is OPPORTUNITY LOST.
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Aug 11, 2008 - 04:03am PT
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Well there you have it GD spelled it out for you.
Now get to WORK !!!
Look at it this way if that fat ass Idiot Jack Osborn can make it up EL Cap.
You can too.
Good Luck, Dog.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (in the sagebrush)
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Aug 11, 2008 - 07:21am PT
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Who's Jack Osborn?
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 07:30am PT
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See?
That's WAY better than suicide.
I may have overstated how out-of-shape I am, and I am already comfortable belaying. So I guess I can stay out of the gym for the most part. I will need to pick up some books, DVDs, and a ton of gear. I'll probly need some guidance on where to climb in the Boston area, as weekend trips out to Cali (though sick) wouldn't be in the budget. At least not every weekend.
Jack Osborn did it?
Damn. I guess I WAY overstated how out-of-shape I am.
I'm going to be researching your posts into the ground over the next 24-48 hours, just to figure out what the hell most of it said, but thank you, seriously, to everyone who posted. Every shred of info I can get here will help.
Anyone else think of anything, please don't hesitate.
-Billy
P.S. Thanks GDavis for the most concise post so far. I agree with your definittino of "climb." Lynne, also thanks, I MIGHT need to keep the job. What's trolling? I mean I understand some definitions of the word, but I'm not sure if it's slang.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Aug 11, 2008 - 09:22am PT
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Boston is close enough to New Hampshire to get plenty of time in on biggish routes. Mt. Washington, Cannon Cliff, Whitehorse Ledge, Franconia Notch, etc.
There's also the Adirondacks and the Gunks in NY for some more adventures. Plenty of bigger routes in the Adirondacks.
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 09:42am PT
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Awesome, Abe. Great point. I thought Mt. Washington was just something that my parents drove up to the top of in their van.
(I hated that stupid bumper sticker so much)
How much would all of this gear cost to get this done, you think?
-Billy
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Aug 11, 2008 - 10:12am PT
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troll.
ya'll been had.
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Billy
climber
Boston, Ma
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 10:14am PT
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So I'm looking at 1400-2000 to get started. Bummer.
Okay, I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. Does anyone go to a gym, or is it truly a waste of time?
I kinda thought that getting in better shape would help, and I can't climb EVERY day.
Thoughts? I'm going to go work on the money thing.
-Billy
P.S. What is a troll? What is trolling? Help out with this?
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