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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 28, 2007 - 04:01pm PT
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i think this will go...
don't be afraid
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 29, 2007 - 02:42am PT
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"Now Karl, by "horizontal" do you mean roof or some traversing thing? Because wide roofs...mmm mmm good."
It's a traversing Splitter #5 camalot or bigger sized crack with no feet. Just small enough that you can't get in. Gives me an uneasy feeling just thinking about it cause the second doesn't get much discount on it either.
Way exposed too.
Imagine a whole bunch of Supertopo fools gangbangin Wild Thing. It would sound like a porn film festival. If there's enough folks can I take pictures from the ground with a long lens?
Peace
Karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 29, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
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bring your wide angle and shoot in the bidness, no way you can get the grimaces shooting long from the ground
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 29, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
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Nice thread, all.
I was always impressed with that easy, but remarkably exposed, bomb bay pitch on the Salathe that I think Tom Frost first led. Took some gumption to venture out there not knowing how hard it would turn out to be.
Tar and Warbler- I am with you regarding the Hotline pitch, a mean-looking, bottomless flare. Was glad to have a top-rope from Bardini on that one.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:17am PT
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I was psyched to get the lead. No way wheels was gonna lead that one, unless I made him do it, and he knew I wouldn't.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 30, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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Yeah I agree Rick that Hotline chimney gave me the creeps every time I had to lead it.
Then! I found the variation that goes out left over a roof with some difficult jamming just to escape that thing.
I called it the Cozgrovel variation with Scott Cosgrove.
I also did a variation to the second pitch of that long hand crack. It's a thin finger and hand thing just to the left of the start of the hand crack.
So one can go over to Hotline and do a ton of sh'it including nightmare continuation, pink dreams and fatal mistake all on the same formation.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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girasol
Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
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Aug 17, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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Nice pics guys, you are inspiring me!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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I like chimneys! Here are a couple I particularly enjoyed:
600 feet of perfect chimney size on Epinephrine:
Only 3 feet (thankfully) of squeeze on Frigidair:
By the way, you can't tell from the pic, but the above is a no-hands, no feet rest. Need gear? Inhale! Ha!
GO
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 17, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
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Why not just get to the sickest offwidths?
Human Sacrifice JT
or the sick thing at Dome Rock? Ron Carson's idea of a solo...
or
Paisano
or
The Titanic
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2007 - 08:58pm PT
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R. Vogel in Fire Glove.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:00pm PT
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Anyone done Shelob's Lair at Pie Shop? 5.9 ploose...
Here's the "classic" 5.8 first pitch "Mad Wife"...
Here's what the Lair is like...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
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Is the bear catholic?
Does the pope sheeyit in the woods?
Do parents promise to show up for their kid's iep's?
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
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Chimneys are for everyone! Isn't there some NCLB law requiring parents to show?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 29, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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Who could, in good conscience, leave any chimbly behind?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2008 - 10:13am PT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 28, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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hey so do any of you Valley lunatics know of a chimney low down on one of the Cathedral Spires ( Lower?) called "the chilling chimney of horrors" or something like that? ?
Well tami, I followed Shaggy up it about 10 years ago. In typical martyr/hardman fashion, he said something like "hmmmm...Chimney of Horrors, i better lead that one' and him being the local, I let him. It doesn't move, no, but it is grainy anf pretty much without pro save the worst quarter-inch rust-stain I've had the pleasure to unclip in awhile.
The Robbins route we started referring to as Higher Excavations on account of its low-traffic feel. Someone had done it a few years before us-there was a relatively fresh quarter-incher at one of the belays- but many pitches were pretty much led with a nut tool. i cleaned on pin anchot by hand, that we bivied on. Eesh. Kind of an adventure in vertical archeology.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Feb 28, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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ELCAPINYOAZZ-
That bolted chimney in the short circuit boulder was bolted by Hope Wolf, I believe. Super fun.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 28, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Nice! I'll check that out this weekend after Short Circuit!
The hardest chimney for me, to date, was the horizontal chimney at the top of the 2nd pitch of Reed's... See, I have this tight spaces problem, to some degree (long story). A regular chimney is fine for me cause the air, light, freedom is right there. Even if I get in it a few feet it's OK.
However, that thing on Reed's is like 50-60' through and it's f*#king dark in there! I false-started that thing like 6 times before committing. I was afraid I was going to freak and fall in there, which would have been bad. No pro and the thing tapers tight. Basically, you're going to get ice cream-coned after about 40 feet. In the center it tightens down to the point I had to drop down a few feet, exhale strongly for each move and diagonal my way back up. Not technically hard at all, just hit a nerve. I was pretty stoked when I got to the other side. And the OW stuff on the other side of Reed's was cool!
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