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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 28, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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It's easy enough to yard out the bolts and redrill bigger holes. How many bolts are there? I'm still not at all clear what the new line involves.
JL
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 28, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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Awesome - so some fuking noobs went up there and made a mess. I predict more noobs will rush up there to "fix" it.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
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Only way that line of bolts was gonna be 3/8ths is with the use of a power drill.
Probably preaching to the choir but 3/8" with a hand drill is definitely doable. I suck at it and can get a 2 1/2" in hard granite in under half an hour.
Anyway, 3/8" would have been better but it doesn't seem like a big problem, those button heads will hold hundreds of climbers for years, right? Penty of time for an upgrade.
If option 1 is a bolt ladder for the masses I'm really curious about option two.
I doubt there was any way to do it without catching tons of crap.
Has anyone looked past the new stuff to see how sketchy the rest of those flakes are?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Jul 28, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Awesome - so some fuking noobs went up there and made a mess.
That was my first thought, too. We even got Royal Robbins on here.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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S#it! I know Josh. He's a great guy. Way to get on it. Bring on the TR!
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jul 28, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
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Crossing my fingers that the bolt ladder was designed to work for people under 5'6" too.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Jul 28, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
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We need Clint and Roger to verify the goings-on, IMO.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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I'm sure Jim's info is solid.
I'm still waiting for the trip report/photos.
I could guess that being up there for 3 days on the "gap section",
it was mostly work on the free version.
The aid ladder can be upgraded to 3/8" stainless in 1 day on the wall.
I agree with Will - it's much harder to pull 5/16", so I hope it's 1/4"!
If it's 5/16", Roger has a reaming tool which will handle the difficult task of enlarging the hole, once the bolt is pulled.
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Bivi Brothers
Trad climber
Oceanside California
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Jul 29, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Here is a hand drawn Topo to hold everyone over for now. Been working on a TR and should have it submitted tonight. The variation out right we did not successfully complete but investigated and decided this's is how it would probably go and be the new free variation!
As for the button head ladder and how that came about. You will have to wait for the TR. Sorry to keep you all in suspense!!
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 29, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Thanks! Can't wait. Wish I'd got some pics of me sleeping on that ledge before it went all vapor.....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Nothing says it quite like "Sketchy giant hanging death flake."
Looks like a blast...
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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How hard are any mandatory free moves? One of the best things about the route was that you could easily do it without doing anything harder than 5.9 A1. It was one of the greatest routes in the valley. Everybody did it at least once.
There used to be a flake in those chimneys above the P11 ledge. You had to undercling around it, and it was kind of spooky. I know that it later fell off, making it easier.
Anyway, did it look clean enough to resume trade route status? No dangerous loose stuff? The topo shows some sketchy loose stuff. I wonder if you could take a prybar and trundle them when nobody is below.
I hope it is still a route for the masses. Just think what would happen if part of the E. Butt or S-S fell off. Scratch them as must do's. That would be a shame.
In this case, I am hoping for bolt ladders to get you through the damaged area. Can't believe I'm for a bolt ladder, but this route is a classic and has been done thousands of times
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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I am hoping for bolt ladders to get you through the damaged area. Did you look at the topo above?
It answers your questions. (except about the pry bar)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 31, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Holy schmoly!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Liberty Cap, the first reported major rock fall in Yos History.
36,000 M cubed
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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Nice (uncharacteristically bland but informative) NatGeo writing from Bisharat!
Bonus points for managing to pack all of the following into one sentence: verb 'scale', 'vertical', 'unclimbable', and 'sheer'.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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