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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:28am PT
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For you seriously disturbed types: yes, it's been climbed; yes, that's either Todd or Evans standing on top; and yeah, you guessed it, it's in Wayne County and maybe 50 - 60 minutes from Torrey including the approach. Although, I have petitioned the County Commissioners to quarry the sucker before Mungeclimber gets any ideas so you might wanna get on it fast.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:58am PT
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Or you could just do the sane thing, pick up your marbles, and go here:
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Good bouldering to be had on the south side of the Aquarius as well.
Yeah, it's Garfield and not Wayne, but it's a short and scenic drive. Garfield's got swimming holes galore - how does Wayne do on that front? Well, I bet.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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There is actually an amazing swimming hole just out of Torrey, up the mountain a bit towards Boulder, about 25 minutes from Torrey. Pleasant Creek Falls. Ice-cold snowmelt coming off the Aquarius Plateau has carved a 30 - 40 foot deep twisting winding set of narrows through the Navajo sandstone. The most amazingly clear water that makes Calf Creek Falls look like mud, with these huge 40' diameter plunge pools, separated by short stretchs of narrows gushing with natural jacuzzis. It's the bomb.
Sort of like Wayne County climbing...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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This place. Pleasant Creek falls. I taught my kids to swim there. Never saw another soul. Great place to skinny dip with your partner then have fun-in-the-sun Crazy Monkey Sex.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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I'm seriously offended by the lack of my presence in this thread.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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Then find me that goddamn video!
Here's your claim to Wayne County fame...
Pitching off a prob I floated in '93 on my first Horn recon...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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Just about rock and roll peed my pants when I found this little cluster of nuggets. Dense, dense concentration of roofs and overhangs on damn fine rock. The Swank Stones. This little V3 crimpfest is what passes for a slab route there.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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Damn sure some fine stuff out there, bvb.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Nice job Bob, now EVERYONE is going to be there this spring. We were hoping to have the flesh pit to ourselves... just me and the woman stretched out on a nice rabbit skin rug, the dogs chewing on the bones still attached to the rug.
Only copy of the video is in my office, 2 hrs away. Probably next week sometime.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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I lived in that boulderfield for about 3mo, and lived another 12mo just down the road a piece in Bicknell when working for AYA in Loa.
I think you were still at CR at the time, BVB...'99/'00.
Nothin like random sheep carcasses, a million dead jack rabbits, and some jack mormons drinking keystone light.
The urban support center for these areas is the thriving metropolis of Torrey, Utah, population 200. Torrey is a 175 mile round trip to the nearest grocery store
Uh, c'mon now. Not to mess with your poetic license and all but...I remember buying all my groceries in Loa...at the grocery store.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
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They didn't build that "grocery store" until '97 or so, as I was preparing to exit for SLC. Dicey pull dates, year-old lettuce, etc. Safeway it is not. Even with that place available, actual locals -- you know, people who own a house and live there year after year -- winter, spring, summer, fall -- own a deep freezer and makes the run to Richfield every couple of weeks. It's there for last-minute milk n' eggs. It's just a minor upgrade from that roachfest in Bicknell...what was that place called? The Red Market? Red's Market? Damn it was scary.
If you were working for AYA, that sorry excuse for a food vendor must have seemed like an open-air market in southern France!
As for Big Rocks, get, like, 50 feet away from one of the dirt roads and it's pristine. Your first clue would be all of the undisturbed paleoartifacts, arrowheads, monster pot fragments, and so on.
Or go down to the park, up on the montain, or over to the Henry's! Big Rocks was my 90 minutes of free time backyard spot.
Done any of these problems..? Post pics!
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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i did some bouldering at big rocks way back in the 80's.....knew a young woman from bicknell that i hung with until i realized she was the wayne county whore.
Nothin like random sheep carcasses, a million dead jack rabbits, and some jack mormons drinking keystone light.
thats what i remember from big rocks.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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That's why we called Big Rocks "The Flesh Pit!" Shoulda got outta yer car and hiked for 10 minutes, dude. Have you even seen any of these problems?
I met a buncha AYA types over the years, the only one who ever figured the place out was Brady Curry and he was as sold on BR as I was. You should check out "Brady's Roof", V4 X in the new Spaulding guide.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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I had the 1988 Hurricane whore... aged 15 years for smoothness and taste... a little "mature" for my 14 year old palette.
Ah, Utah, how I miss your loose women and heavily armed parents.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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SO SWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLESWOLE
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Beebs, I was running around out there with Martucci, Fordonski on a rare occasion, and Benji (who's last name I forget). Pretty sure Brady was still around then, although no longer with AYA. I think Fredo and him tried to put up some wall routes on these crazy tower/spires things near Juneau in that same time frame, and Shelly and Joe were still living in Teasdale.
I've been all over the place in that boulderfield. Even been duck hunting about a stones throw from there a couple of times.
Only pics I've got from BR is of some friends on the boulder with the
"Jenny" grafitti.
But really, the best part of bouldering there...post sesh pickle pie and pinto bean pie at the Sunglow...just don't speed through Lyman on the way back home.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
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Only pics I've got from BR is of some friends on the boulder with the
"Jenny" grafitti.
I think there is a big ol' WES graffiti there too. I think bvb put in there in recognition of my greatness.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Oh, yeah, the Sunglow! Agreed the pickle pie was dope. The "Jenni" was actually "jennifer Washburn" on the Whiffle Ball, a great boulder problem but so damn close to the road...Jennifer Washburn was that hardest prob on the Whiffe Ball, thin and scary and high. Broken leg for sure if you pitch from the top.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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V5 huh? We were calling it "5.11, don't fall" (no crashpads).
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