Bolt chopping at Sugarloaf

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 178 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 26, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
Faded for a bit from the thread, but is it still the same deal - 168 posts and still no clear and explicit statement about exactly what the fuss is about?
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
My back is pealing.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
healy,
you have to read the non lines,
then everything makes sense....

some local developers with mucho tiempo en tus manos
have employed agressive bolting warfare within
the confines of the sugarloaf climbing area.

 added anchors on existing routes,
 lead bolts on most faces taller than 30',
tightly spaced vertically and laterally.
 bolted cracks

they even bolted god's vagina so now it is culturally current
with a shiny piercing...

many travelers of the dirt path
have noticed and objected to the onslaught of bolts.

recently this objection has matured into a defacing
of the shiny matrix.

this was done in secret and the bolters want their
courage back.

no one has fessed up.
i have recieved phone calls that suggest
ill-willed visists to my house.

no harm no foul if anyone comes to my property
where my sleeping children dream,

i'll handsomely employ any and every and then some defense means
granted of me by my legal rights.

huh.

so in summary,
the message has been communicated that the
loaf needs some breathing time and down space
and that no more circus anchors will be tolerated.

the rest is fiction.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Norwegian, I like you, but holy f*ck I can't follow your words.

You're not the chopper, are ya?

And who's calling you making threats?

Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
no i am not the chopper.
this has been unclearly stated
many times.

im not naming any names
but i've got underfed
dingoes and
they've lightening bolts for pupils.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
I want whatever you're smoking.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
what im smoking
is my dreams, son.

i've been sittin in this
way too comfortable chair
pushing a mouse and carressing
keys since 2 am yesterday.

a little sleep was had
but it was chronically infared.

and i've met some unrealistic
deadline (kinda like a speed ascent but
instead speed calculations of stress-strain analysis)

and now im crackin
a couple of sierra nevada canned pale ales
and its raining outside
and i've got ink on my fingertips
which im inhaling
and the water jug is empty

and my wife is ovulating.

devil-speed and i'm freed.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
Sheit. I'm sorry.
apogee

climber
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
Over the years, weeg has made more and more sense to me.

One of us is evolving, that's fershur!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
Weeg translator:

Some over zealous egos got carried away with bolting.

Some visitors don't mind, some do, and considered it something like rape.

Someone that didn't like it decided to send a message.
The bolters want to be compensated for their chopped bolts.

Weeg has been accused because he has been outspoken in his dislike of said bolting.

There were apparently threats made.

Don't go to Weeg's house with your accusations or bad things will happen.

The bolter and the chopper could meet at the base with hammers at five paces, but we don't know who they are.....
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
I understand how Sugarloaf was the bee's knees back in the day. All the hard boys from around town came and did the classics, and even got spit out on the roof.

But, did you guys plan on doing something else on those obscure boulders?

I don't agree that Chimney's should be bolted if they've been done without bolts. But some do...

That 5.0 with Petch's daughter soloing while petch is clearly standing up is a joke and should be pulled and filled.

There are enough good face climbs on Sugarloaf, that couldn't really be done without bolts. I don't see a problem with those staying, even if they weren't originally done back in the late 1800's by Rick Sumner.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
I know for a fact the weeg dont smoke. Obviously he doesnt need to.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
Rick* >.> Edited.

Mark Hudon, what do you think about the boulders you've solo'd that have been bolted?

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
"I don't use drugs. I AM DRUGS"!
Salvador Dali


ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
Survival: Exactly.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
she is not only physically beautiful
but she boasts (edit.. and probably practices)
altruistic courage.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
/\ x2
my comment was directed at Jeebuses. she needs to start another thread to post that $hit in that will be easier to ignore.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
Apr 26, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
I also noticed quite a bit of new gardening while I was up there last week. The tree at the base of harding's/fang was cut down. I'm sure it was dead or dying or whatever, but chopping it down with a chainsaw Is questionable practice IMO.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 26, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
I don't know anything about bolted boulders at Sugarloaf, I haven't been there in 30 years or so.
GoMZ

Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
Apr 26, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
At least I don't have worry about my rope getting stuck in that tree anymore, what ever would I do:-)

Zach, it was there when we did harding's, wasn't it? Was that in December?
Messages 101 - 120 of total 178 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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