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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Years ago I bought a book from chessler and found that my credit card had been overcharged for the transaction. I tried calling and sending emails asking politely to have the overcharge corrected and got no response after 3 or 4 attempts over the course of a week and became more concerned. After that, I took a nastier tone and finally got a response. Instead of a simple apology and acknowledgement of the mistake, he accused me of character assassination and started spouting about how he's sold thousands of books with no complaints. It was quite an pompous overreaction from someone who made the mistake.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Wow, this thread is a bag of diks.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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How many Diks can you get into a bag?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I have probably had more experience with Michael Chessler than anyone here, as he sold my books and things starting way back in the late '60s with my guide High Over Boulder. Early on, I realized Michael is a different sort of species of human. I could either take issue with his somewhat unpredictable personality or not. For the most part I chose the latter, and we have had countless mutually beneficial exchanges. I have felt we were friends, for several decades. As Kerwin notes, Michael is an antiquarian of a scholarly sort, in his area of speciality. He can be immensely helpful. And, as many have noted here, his service to climbers is unique and important. Kerwin, that cat story might have originated from Michael's playful relationship with his cats. I have a photo of Michael where he holds a cat in his (Michael's) mouth, and the cat dangles there contentedly, as though Michael were his mother.... Few people can spin a yarn like Michael. He stays surprisingly well up on events in the climbing world. Yet he is like a bear, a big fuzzy, pet of a bear. He has moods. On a given day he will be a wonderful playmate. On another he might simply chew your head off. Thus for me, it never has been a relationship that inspires comfort or, exactly, trust. I mean, one has to be a bit vigilant, on the alert for one of those moods. I know his health hasn't been great, and I know from my own experience with health problems that such a situation can make a person irritable and contentious. Michael has shown real generosity to me at times. Other occasions, inexplicably, he has taken a harsh, businesslike approach and shown me no favor or leeway, as though we had never been friends. He wouldn't hesitate to undercut your prices or do other things that seem in stark contrast to his otherwise professional, honest, and likeable self. I have never known how to assess such behavior and suspect he would have a good explanation for anything he does of a questionable nature. I have watched, however, that switch back and forth through the decades between a mean bear and a fun one, with no apparent explanation. He can be very warm. He can be very cold. Michael has tended to remind me of the favors he has done, and in turn I have held onto the somewhat playful running question as to whom has benefitted more, Michael or I. The answer to that question is not in fact something for which either Michael or I wait. I mean, yes he gives me money for things I sell him. Then, though, he usually makes a profit... somehow. He is amazingly creative at finding people who cater to his propositions. People who fault him for that have no real basis for doing so. That's his business. He does it well. As for the rough edges of his personality, well, one has to decide if it's worth it to continue the involvement. In the past, I have simply tried to be positive, and things have, for the most part, worked. My daughters enjoy Michael. He has welcomed them with gifts, shown them how to feed the foxes outside, and given them the demonstration of holding his cat in his mouth.... He doesn't have to do business with Maren and Anna. Michael has always been frank and straightforward. He knows what he wants, what he can use, and it's my guess every day he runs into someone who isn't easy to deal with. So Michael, in reaction to that, it's my guess, becomes less easy to deal with. There are no such excuses, though, for other occasions when he takes a big, snarling bite out of your back. One must try not to turn his or her back toward the big bear. It's hard for me not to like Michael Chessler, as is it hard not to feel provoked at times. I recall one tender moment in Boulder when he drove down to see my film, "the Disciples of Gill." At the end of the show, he approached me and said he had never before had tears in his eyes for a climbing film. I was touched by that comment, which I saw as a high form of praise, that the film could move someone. That's the better, deeper side of Michael. The antithetical experience would lie in wait later around some other day's curious corner....
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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I've dealt with Michael for over 25 years as both a buyer and a seller and have been very satisfied with the experience. If, for whatever reason, you don't care to do business with Michael that's your choice. But, I will continue to do business with him.
Something that hasn't been very well documented in this thread is that besides Michael paying climbers for their signatures(who else is doing that?), he also donates money to climbing-related charities for certain items which he sells.
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bookie
climber
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I can't believe that this thread is still going! If I had know these last thirty years that my eccentric business practices would have been so entertaining to the chattering class, I would have been more of an ass-hole all along! It might even get me into heaven as having been such a delight to humanity.
For those who took seriously my remark about my customers actually using the manila ropes, I was putting you on. That I caused some discomfort to my critics, I am filled with glee that I was successful! As Pat Ament kindly pointed out, I do know which part of a rope is the top and which is the bottom. Or the front and back, I forgot what he told me.
Here is an update for those who are appalled that I am selling old ropes I "bought at the flea market" as old climbing ropes. I have now sold three of the five I had. For those who ever think about pricing, you will recognize that when something does not sell it may indicate the price is too high. When you sell 60% of your non-renewable inventory in 6 days, it indicates your price is too low, so I have adjusted the rope price to market conditions. If you grab one now I will even throw in some old soft iron pins and steel biners so you will be fully kitted out to go climbing!
I love Olevsky! After 15 years of my imploring Kor to sign some books for me, and even having Pat Ament put in a good word for me as well, he eventually granted me 4 hours of his time, for which I paid him $4000, and $1250 a few months later for 5 more signatures. Ron, how much have you given Kor, or raised for him? You are sounding more foolish with every post, you should relax, get off ST and watch you tube or something. I am arrogant and full of pride for what I do, but at least I DO something! You are now in my "past customer" list, and now, no matter what you say, I will never sell you a manila rope.
Or bite your cat.
Michael Chessler
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WBraun
climber
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Hahahaha LOL
You all have been owned by this man .....
LOL LOL LOL
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Best chew on all the facts before you spit out a half-baked condemnation of Ron.............Ron has been a friend to many in their times of need.......with no gain in it for Ron except that's what friends do for each other..........(we miss you Kyle Copeland.....)....business is business......and friends is friends;.....it's apples and oranges....
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bookie
climber
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With all respect, Olevsky is the one stating "facts" about what Layton did for me and how much money I made off it, facts he has no acccess to or right to have access to.
How the hell does he know or care what I did, or made? Who asks somebody else how much he makes? Who says somebody else makes too much money? I would never presume to ask you, Olevsky or Chouinard or even Bill Gates how much he personally makes on each computer I buy. It's rude to ask that. He was just hurt that he was left out of something Layton did, so he cannot get credit for what I did for Kor.
It is obvious to everybody that in paying Layton $5250 to sign some stuff for 4 hours I was hardly "using" him. Who the hell pays that much to somebody who is not famous? Being known to rock climbers is not famous. If Olevsky thinks I should have given Kor more money, he should sell some of his assault rifles and give the money to Kor himself.
I once asked Clint Eastwood to sign some copies of "The Eiger Sanction." I really did. In fact, I had been buying hardcovers for years in hopes I would meet him someday. He wanted $400 each. Clearly, no deal was done.
I think some of you people are funnin' by saying a bookseller is "making too much" on anything. Clearly you haven't been near a bookstore in ten years. Either because you don't buy books, or because all the bookstores have gone out of business! I closed my bookshop and fired all my employees in September 2011. Familiar date? Hey, I just consider myself lucky that I still have a job!
And I sell Manila Ropes because Amazon does not! Get the picture now kiddies?
Michael Chessler
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Hey Todd, I'm starting to run out of dinky sport routes at my level... I might ask nicely for you to scribble some stuff on my guidebooks here soon. Just did a few of your routes (and gaines) stuff, been having an absolute blast. Black jack, Freshly Squeezed and Sexy Grandma, to name a few. And some friends visited Siberia and had some nice things to say, and Jake says that there is a bunch of cool stuff out there that ain't even in the newest of the new books.
Anyway, thread drift. Well, guidebook-related.
If I ever get enough cash I want to get a 1962 AAJ from Chessler, but for now I have to save up cash for gas money to go climbing :) I guess I can save that for when I crack my legs climbing and just have my books to look at, which will be fun, because I haven't read most of em....
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WBraun
climber
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Bookie -- "I closed my bookshop and fired all my employees in September 2011."
Huh?
You closed your business and fired all your employees?
What did they all suddenly do wrong?
How's that work?
Normally you let them go.
Oh I get it. You fired them so you don't have to pay compensation?
Nice guy?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Ahhh sh#t, we is all dick heads sometimes....
Word
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Chessler Books=Bain Capital?
Bookie=Romney?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Chessler- just read your rant to Ron.
Pretty weak considering what he has done for his friends. You should be ashamed.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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'62 AAJ: Chouinard's article? Or was that '63? The one where he predicts Yosemite techniques will be transported to the great ranges of the world.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Todd-
Very well said.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oh, right. The article was "Modern Yosemite Climbing" and it was '63. That's the one I want.
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bookie
climber
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Leroy Cross, the great old bookseller from Brunswick Maine, was a mentor to me, and told me that the 1962 and 1963 AAJs were classic and valuable for the following reasons:
The 1962 AAJ frostbite article by Washburn that had some full color and totally gross photos of frostbitten hands and feet, and even worse, the damage done to somebody's frozen feet when they were held close to a truck exhaust to thaw them out. They looked like overcooked sausages with peeling casings. I still show it to people.
The article got reprinted as a pamphlet to be sold in climbing shops, but they left the great color photos out of the pamphlet! So to him, and me, that article always stuck in my mind.
The 1963 AAJ started with 4 lead articles about Yosemite, all by Chouinard and Robbins. There had ever been a major article in the AAJ about Yosemite before that, and now there were four. Never before or since has there been 4 lead articles about any one place in that journal, which then as now was the journal of record. Then the next year Roper's guide came out, and as they say, life began.
Roper told me he was in the Army in Louisiana or some other hellhole in 1964, and was not popular in his platoon. But when Brower at the Sierra Club sent him a copy of the Red Guide, and his buddies saw that he had written a book, he suddenly had the respect of everybody.
The 1960s were transformational in so many big ways, race relations, birth control and sex, Vietnam and the anti-war movement, the life and death of JFK, rock n roll, so many things we all think about. But it also changed many things like the new popularity of climbing and backpacking that affected millions of people, but were less controversial and newsworthy. The 1960s changed everything, except Detroit cars.
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bookie
climber
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Werner said "You closed your business and fired all your employees? What did they all suddenly do wrong? How's that work? Normally you let them go. Oh I get it. You fired them so you don't have to pay compensation? Nice guy?"
Spoken like an employee, Werner. Here is what really happened.
My employees were really nice people, I gave them several months of notice, and they easily found jobs right away, and I am still friends with one of them.
In 1994 I sold 20% of the mountaineering books in America, certainly on many major books where I could find the numbers. I sold 1500 of the 7500 Messner All 14 8000 1st editions (1988). I sold about 5000 Touching the Void 1st editons (also 1988), of 30,000 printed. I did $50,000 (wholesale)in one year with Chockstone books, mostly books like Largo's How to Rock Climb that you can now buy in supermarkets. Every time George Meyers had to pay royalties to Largo and Randy Vogel, he would drive over to my bookshop and make me pay up, so he could pay them.
But by 2001 my sales had shrunk to 1/3 of what they were in 1994 due to the internet competition. And my expenses had risen, as I had to pay people current wages, rent had gone up, and do you remember my great catalogs? I did 120 of them and the cheapest ones cost me $2000, the big ones cost $20,000 with postage. And I did 6 to 10 a year. You have to spend millions to make millions, and I did.
My customers were great, they told me to get a good website. In 2002 we put up the site we have now, and I think all the programming, yearly fees, etc for 10 years has cost me less than one catalog in one year used to cost. I am doing the same amount of business that I did in 2001, but with one part time employee. I do everything I was paying two people full time employees to do. And I have been doing it for ten years. For about 5 years I even did it all alone. So you can see why I get pissed off when idiot tells me I am making too much money. On signed books that I still have in stock because I priced them too high!
I was losing $100,000 a year by 2001, and I had to re-finance my house, and sometimes couldn't make my mortgage payments. Sound familiar? I had to close the store fast or get a real job. It wasn't just me. It happened and is still happening to every bookstore in America, and every travel agent, and many other jobs. Even Best Buy is losing money due to internet competition. Borders books is gone, Barnes and Noble is going. Amazon is destroying many retail businesses in America, and due to Federal relaxation of controls on prices in the 1970s, discounting is seen as a boon to consumers. But it is killing businesses and higher paying jobs than Amazon creates. Certainly better jobs.
Yeah, books are cheap now, but how can you browse? And do you really want to stare at a screen every time you want to buy something?
And have you checked Amazon prices on out of print books where their private sellers have the only copies? Here is a good one, a 5 year old book from Climbing Magazine for $72, that should be five bucks. http://www.amazon.com/Glacier-Mountaineering-Illustrated-Crevasse-Revised/dp/1893682129/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1326010650&sr=1-2
There is a saying that people do their best thinking under stress. So in September 2001, while I hired a young climber to move my 20,000 books and bookshelves into my barn, I took a gamble. I bought several thousand dollars of new and used books, and ten thousand dollars worth of old ice axes, and spent $14,000 on air freight r/t to send them to New Zealand. Then I flew there for a week, and Ed Hillary signed all that stuff for me. He actually did that for anybody who would contribute to his foundation, that's how he raised money for his charitable work. I gave him a lot of money. Really a lot.
And then I sold the stuff. And then I did it again every year for seven years, and I also flew to Europe to see Harrer, Herzog, Heckmair, Messner etc. I was crossing the oceans so much I started to upgrade to business class, it was so debilitating. Exhilarating, but exhausting. I never in my life thought I would even want to fly in the front of the plane.
But it gave me something to sell that was called a mountaineering book, and it was something that Amazon could not undersell me on. The game had changed on me, so I had to change the game back. Now I sell signed books, and usually for the cover price. I sold 300 copies of Steve House's book at the cover price, and after Fred signs them I will try to sell 150 copies of his new $80 book, that Amazon sells for less than Patagonia will sell it to me for.
So why did I give Kor more than I had ever given anybody to sign books except Ed Hillary? Because I had a lot of books, and pitons, and I didn't think he could do it all. People told me he was sick. So I didn't expect much. But he was well enough for signing books. I was so surprised that I quadrupled my offer.
Here's a good story. Talk about being sick and signing books. I actually lifted Brad Washburn out of his death bed, to sit up in his wheelchair, so he could sign books. Although his last year saw his body and mind failing, I discovered something about authors. They always recognize their books, and incredibly for him, his handwriting stood up until the end. I would spend 3-4 days at a time in Boston, going in to see Brad only one hour at a time.
Barbara, his wife told me that it actually cheered him up, to be with somebody who knew who he was and appreciated him, and gave him something worthwhile to do. That was obvious. My only regret was that I didn't take him out to Friendly's for one last milk shake. But telling this story did remind me of something I had forgotten.
It gave me incredible pleasure to give Barbara more money than I gave anybody except Ed Hillary, even more than Kor. A shitload more. And as my checking account was kind if shaky at the time, I paid her in cash. A thick wad of hundreds. A Mafia roll. Olevsky, you here? A gun show roll! We showed it to Brad, but I don't think he cared. He wanted one last strawberry milkshake.
Michael Chessler
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