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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Part V falling off the front page . . . help!
JL-- Great story about Jim Donini showing you guys the bouldering circuit prior to the big anti sand-bag day. JD is an absolutely great climber.
I have a JD story to tell:
Honest to God truth, Jim Donini bought me my first beer EVER in a bar in downtown Leavenworth, WA, (1980) after spending the day with him climbing in a clinic one on one (awesome exp.) when I was 18 fresh out of HS. I was a good boy just before that very moment (well, ok, there was some experimenting with a special herb prior to this event). However, from that moment on, it has all been downhill. I blame the Dino.
One other JD story. While sitting there in the bar I brought up a climb he did in South America. Recall -- A 1st ascent bigwall climb done on the Tepuis (sp?) of Venezuela in the late 70's that Jim was a member of, in which the climb was written up in "Mariah" magazine (anyone remember that mag?). Well there is a classic picture in that article of a member of the team aiding above while holding a slithering snake, pinched between his thumb and first finger immediatley below the snake's head, and the climber has an absolute look of horror and disgust as he looks down at the photographer.
Well, the snake is PLASTIC. ABSOLUTELY FAKE. Beer is the truth serium. ROTFLMAO hilarious. Apparently they had a grab bag of ready-made creatures. However, the tarantulas falling and helicoptering down to the ground was real. The things you learn while under the influence . . .
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yeah, IMPRESSIVE, but Joe, regarding 10.96, (I got yer light werk Jaybro), it's been said of cracks whose jamming techniques are the key issue: "Did ya layback it or climb it?"
(Ok, I may have laybacked a few O-Dub cruxes myself)
Yes, Klimmer, Donini is really somethin': we see him in Boulder quite a lot, but he's more often seen climbing...
Keep it on the front page!!
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Hey, that was a secret!
Cats out of the bag on 10.96
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Grameech,
How's yer mornin' goin?
OH and T*R, your cultivated sensibilities and sincerity might fly here on this thread, 'cuz most a these lads are real nice and not shite talkers (except for me, mosta whut I say is predicated on self effacing bufoonery) but that's why you get flamed by all the naughty boyz elsewhere. Keep up the good work and don't let 'em take you down!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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um, let's see...oh yeah, i remember.
STFU, roy.
that is all.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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hey, woa, did a mouse just run under my chair?
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Yea, Jim "Dino" Donini definately still pulls down on hard climbs.
Maybe 3 summers ago, my family hung out in Ouray, CO, for a short while. Amazing beautiful place and cozy town. Great ice climbing in the winter, Telluride just around the corner for world-class skiing and paragliding, BC skiing galore all around, and a interesting western town and mining history. It looks like spectacular rock climbing all around on a diversity of stone. Canyonlands and moab are not too far away. Colorado major ski resorts and Glenwood Springs are just a short hop. Sport climbing mecca Rifle is very close. You get the picture -- nearly paradise.
Well we were floating there near the middle of town in the giant Hot Spring pools, and I'm gazing up at the rock high above us, daydreaming about great routes to do and then all of a sudden a lead climber comes into view ascending a quality steep face. I knew it! There had to be routes all over the place. How come I never have heard of rock routes in Ouray before?
Well, I go to the midtown climbing shop a little later and inquire about the local rock climbing guide, and the owner of the shop says "There isn't any." I say, "What? No climbing guidebook? I just witnessed climbers on a spectacular bolted face just above the Hot Springs pool." He replies, "Yea, that's Jim Donini and friends putting up new routes. There isn't a guidebook available yet. And everyone wants to do a lot more before one becomes available."
I'm thinking to myself, what the hell is taking you guys so long to discover Ouray rock that is surrounding and staring you right in the face each and everyday? Perhaps they were waiting for JD to show up. Ouray is happening.
Yep, Donini definately still climbs.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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He's also doing an excellent job of establishing trad street cred for the Montrail rock shoe bid.
I asked a buddy at Neptune's if he wanted to head to MOAB- "Na, I gotta go out and do a clinic thing with Donini and he's so much fun that's all I need in terms of plans."
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Wonder
climber
WA
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tarbuster, im stealing your "a mouse just ran under my chair line", you know who i am, come and get it:)Brahaha
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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"hey, woa, did a mouse just run under my chair?"
yeah, the mouse that ROARED, junior.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Wiliams, Oregon
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Back to 10.96.
Mark Hudon and I did it in 77' and discovered that Phil's approach (right side in), was way harder than left side in. As I recall the fists in the back were a bit loose and the # 10 hexes a bit wobbly.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Found the following image in Mountain #81...
Caption: Randy Leavitt "leavittating" on Paisano Overhang. Starting feet first you must then turn head first to do the crux at the lip!! Photo: Debbie Middleton.
(I have rotated the photo to better-match the correct angle of all the trees in the background.) Check out the load of tape.
And, while we are all (still!) waiting for Gramicci to cough-up Exhibit R, this is apropos...
From Mountain #70: John Yablonsky has surprised everyone by staying alive, and he further surprised everyone by pushing it once again. He has now soloed Duck Soup --a 5.10 face route on the Weeping Wall.
So... Anyone else got any Yabo stories? And, wasn't Duck Soup that tainted route that had a bolt or two put in on rappel? I remember some being quite pissed about the tasteless lack of style. (Wasn't there some controversy about those bolts?) And I (vaguely) recall that Clam Chowder was a dig at the Soup line. CJ?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Don't hold your breath Muir... I think Exhibit "R" is nothing more than a figment of Gramicci's imagination.
OK, I tried, but I just can't let this go. No edit button for THAT post, eh Klimmer? Well, here's a Woodson quiz question, a Rubidoux counter jab, and a moral all in one.
What was the chemical that Dan Lichtfus was using at Woodson to improve the friction quality of his shoe rubber? And did it really work?
In the mid 80's Powell and myself had heard that Dan was doctoring his shoes at Woodson and doing new extreme smearing problems. Then one day Dan shows up at Rubidoux. Problem was, no matter how much of the "juice" he poured on his shoes it didn't seem to help him. He augered several times off some of the long problems down in the Wild West, and also failed to send the infamous "In My Time of Dimes" which KP had put up in EBs. Then, to make matters worse KP later went to Woodson and sent Dan's enhanced rubber problems using "all natural" rubber.
And the moral of this story is? ... Hell, I don't know, but I'm sure there's one in it somewhere.
BTW bvb: Why is a problem named "Top Secret File"? What kind of "file" are we talking about? Heh? ... Heh?
Bring it on boys! (Muir, you got my back here? -- We need to keep the SD boys in line.)
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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What do the Brits say? Bloody El! I never knew John soloed that! Damm…that was friggn bold. I remember that route being slick as sh#t and three pitches to boot.
Also recently read an old Higgins article stating Duck soup was put up on rappel? Interesting… who were those guys anyway?
Oh yeah, sorry no “R” as of yet
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Duck Soup: Marty Woerner. Colorado boy I believe. And it was put in on rappel (solo FA). Don't know why. Yes, it was an impressive solo.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Yeah, in one of my many trips to Woodson, Shockley introduced us to a bottle of magic juice. That stuff turned out to be nothing more than denatured alcohol, which we then all began to use. Plastic bottles, purchased from the local pharmacy, started making it into the day packs, and MANY HOURS could then be wasted prepping (rather than bouldering). Soak the soles lavishly with the alkeeee, brush heavily with a stiff brush, more washing and then a COMPLETE wipe-down with a clean cloth until the shoes squeeked.
There were said to be a few Woodson pieces that needed it. Not sure if it ever made any difference, other than psychologically... And, after it was PROVEN not to make a lick of difference on real slicknesses like "Sole on Ice", we started backing off the denatured, and started applying other alcohols internally, instead. Truly, a much better stall.
And, of course, nothing so artificial ever would have made a difference at Rubidoux. ...much harder problems there. Right, Henny?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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HooMannnn, you guys are DREAMIN!!!!!!!
"head first in the bushes", babe. you boys down for a little more hue-mill-eeeeee-a-shun????
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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What Dimes said, "Funku-how, Funku-when, Funku-later." And we'll raise you, again, Octopus and Middle of the Road Madness! Call.
Actually, I think that thing Shockley showed us was Slapstick maybe? Over near Head First, wasn't it, with a tree nearby. Thin smooghy stuff, also rated B1 in Fry's bookie. Considered an alcohol-necessary little gizmo, and we used it lavishly on that turkey.
...liked Woodson very much. Just too long a drive from North Orange County, for regular hauntings. Nice rock, lots of variety, good solutions. (Does anyone else remember trying not to call them problems, but bouldering solutions? After ya did it, it was no longer a problem.)
Vogel and I cruised around together, during one of the Woodson comps. The second one, maybe? Not particularly seriously trying, but by the end when the points were tabulated, I remember that we both had identical scorecards and the judges had miscalculated our results. Think we both should have gotten 3rd or 4th for our division, but we both decided not to contest it. We didn't care; the event itself was its own reward.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Agreed. Great bouldering, but considering that I lived 15/20 mins from Rubidoux it was a little too much work to go to Woodson regularly. I always thought one of the highlights with a trip down there was the thin cracks. There's some really good ones. Yeah Robs, some of us would go to the Woodson contests. Question is, did they come to the Rubidoux contests?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Ricky Accomazzo was attending law school in San Diego (I think) and one time we visited a then largely undeveloped San Tee (Sp?) and to the credit of the San Diegans, I remember some pretty harrowing, high ass dime work on a few of those faces. Didn't have no "juice" for the boots rubber, however.
BTW, I spilled bong water on my boots a few times but didn't notice any added friction.
Also, Rob keeps refering to a Baldy boulder problem called Soul on Ice. Now boys, that's truly the slickes rock on the planet. I used to love bouldering at Baldy.
JL
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