Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 11:22am PT
|
Damn, we are a funny lot!
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 11:59am PT
|
I'm going with the notion that those bolts are for the slab also.
If you need them for the chimney to save your ass then clip the darn things. I've seen sugarloaf "develop" over the last 30+ years and it frequently seems to be in the spotlight for similar activities. (Blue Velvet), and many other climbs, some squeeze jobs and some even worth doing.The area sees alot of climbers being climable year round so both CA and Tahoe climbers "hit it". I think we need to relax a little on this one and if it helps open up another area to spread out the crowds, Please leave the bolts..
|
|
mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
|
Never climbed at Sugarloaf so I don't really no the true nature of these routes. Mark, crowds suck at the crags but that is because of the publicity and 'marketing' of climbing. If we bolt all the rock it will just bring more crowds to all the areas eventually' And our crags will essentially become outdoor climbing gyms. This will lead to other environmental impact issues.
In my opinion a lot of 'climbers' these days should not climb. So many are clearly incompetent. Why bring the rock down to their level. The climber needs to bring themselves up to the level of the route. Out.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
|
from the bolter's website:
p.s.
as stated up-thread,
the route goes very safely with all natural pro.
as a community, we imply acceptance of these practices if we allow the bolts to stay.
which they won't.
|
|
atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
|
Nothing says "I have an incredibly small dick" like declaring that you are going to chop bolts on the internet.
Why not, STFU, and just go chop em? Without all the chest thumping. Its possible to never clip a bolt your whole life, and still be a complete pussy.
Cheers,
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
|
this forum serves as a medium to gather a consensus on decisions that affect our entire community.
that how my thoughts on this matter found their way to yours.
and weschrist i was simply toying with your frantic name calling and other antics displayed all over this thread.
im sure you're brave. and im sure the bolter's intentions were good.
good intentions though, often have dire side affects.
i f*#k up often enough to know this well.
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
|
Here's a possibility.
We are stuck in a binary situation. Bolt out versus bolt in. Maybe there is an intermediate state.
You are on a climb with a bolt that really is offensive and whose absence cannot possibly pose a serious run-out for anyone.
When you think a climb might pose such a situation take along a small roll of red electrical tape. Put one wrap of tape through the hanger such that a biner catching a fall does not bear on the tape. Have it high not low.
To be fair you really need to be able to do this easily one handed and unclipped.
It will take a lot of wraps like this before the ability to clip is affected. The tape will represent an expression of opinion.
If the tape builds up to the point a clip cannot be made easily, someone needing the clip can strip off some of the tape.
This can be done one handed easily if you prepare a small roll of tape beforehand. Take a box cutter and make one or two deep cuts across the tape. This way with the roll in the mouth you can pull off one or two inch lengths - easily. If the tape is red or brightly colored later leaders will see beforehand what is coming up and can be ready for it.
Like the bolting itself this too can get out of hand.
We do need to find some approach allowing us to become more mature.
We have been trying the communication approach now for forty years. It make help once in a while but without forming an organization and giving it a responsibility it often does not seem to work.
Coming up on a hanger having twenty wraps of tape on it might communicate pretty effectively. If there is good natural protection nearby people may even decide to learn how to place their own protection.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
|
I'm gonna go out on a limb and second Weschrist^^
You gotta have a civil dialog about this with the bolters and give them the opportunity to see the way and right their wrongs. Its not rocket science to understand that you shouldn't retro-bolt existing routes, especially crack climbs.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
|
Aren't those bolts chopped yet?
I have never chopped a bolt...
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
|
Just go chop it already, but chop it right. Hell don't bitch - you're gonna get some free hangers out of it. Don't forget to fill the holes, geeze get on with it!
kev
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
|
The way those bolts go over the top sure look like someone put the time in to bolt the face route to the left of the X's, look's well done so you don't fall back into the Maw at the end. One of the middle bolts is obviously near the chockstone that could provide natural pro....I think they wanted to play on the face...Let's ask them or leave it alone.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
|
The games we play!
How many can you count???
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
|
Aww come on. It's fun Tork!
You get over to parkline fri,sat?
kev
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
|
How much snow are you getting right now Tork(shamless thread hijack)?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
|
Hey Kev,
Worked Fri-Sun, took him to P-Line Sat & Sun. He loved it!
Snowing on and off all night and today. Only a couple of inches remain here but I am sure there is 2'??? higher.
Jeff
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
|
I tested out the elbow and it held albiet painfully fri and sat. Sunday it was hard to muster up any motivation with the clouds of doom above (plus knowing the weather was supposed to turn we might have indulged a little much sat evening). Glad to hear it didn't dump too much. The stuff we were working was seeping alot and the phrase of the day was "muck, muck, muck, muck."
kev
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
|
If some of you guys can't tone down the sexist language, I'm going to be hoping some rad woman chops your dicks.
That bolted chimney looks pretty pathetic.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
|
weschrist,
i need not slander you,
for your sorry story is told on your own tongue.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
|
Wes,
I'm just curious, have you ever placed a bolt? If so have you ever placed one by hand from stance? Have you ever rap bolted? Have you ever ground up an FA? Have you ever power drilled? I ask because I'm just trying to understand your background....
kev
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!