Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
d0novn
climber
ca
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:41am PT
|
I have been at castle rock last week i think? noticed these tick marks coming from climbers working on eco that cannot climb it but rather tick random spots AND spots that are not actual grips. not the biggest deal its chalk, but if i see you doing this me along with other locals that go there daily will be very annoyed. Last couple of weeks the only issue is eco, the entire lip is basically chalky along with the arete on the left. COLORED CHALK IS UNACCEPTABLE. you may think you may be preserving the environment but instead are just screwing up these climbs until the next rain. Another serious issue is the overpopulation of climbing on a day after a storm. If you do decide to climb on a wet day stay away from the more delicate climbs out of the very least consideration. chances are ill see the anonymous ticker up there ;)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2010 - 01:21am PT
|
not from this weekend, but previously found at CRSP...
This is from the end move on the Dog Dish Traverse...
You can't see the arrows from the start of the move anyways.
IDJIOTS!
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 01:30am PT
|
I am posting up by eco with a 12 pack, hammock, and daisy pump this weekend.
Feel free to join me.
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 01:48am PT
|
this is like complaining about the guy's costume on the Disney matterhorn.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2010 - 03:31am PT
|
I hated those guys costume with their short hair requirements!
least I'm consistent.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 11:41am PT
|
{i]this is like complaining about the guy's costume on the Disney matterhorn.
ok, that's sort of funny.
looking out the window, and i bet all the tic marks are gone now.
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 11:57am PT
|
Mungeclimber, you wanna help me with this FFA party, i need just a few good men.
virgin sandstone awaits those who know how to jungle stud.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
|
I tick a hold here and there, and brush it off when I'm done. Not at CRSP, though (I've never been there).
The funny thing to me is the people who say "it's a crack, how can you possibly need tick marks"...well, go try some blue to green alien sized cracks above your limit where you can only get your tips in at very specific spots and get back to me.
You can skip using the tick mark, but you'll just end up with a palm sized chalk spot after a bunch of attemps from slapping around trying to hit that spot wide enough for tips...and that resulting softball sized chalk spot is not really much different than a tick mark.
It does seem pretty out of hand in some bouldering areas, but did you take the time to brush them off yourself and maybe set an example, or just bitch about it on the intardwebs?
|
|
Rob_James
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
|
Elcapinyoazz: O'h but it's just a fingertip boulder crack. So no need for tick marks and no need for chalk. Just wipe your sweaty hands with a towel before each few-minutes effort.
As a good friend remarks. So many make the summit. But they don't make the style. Self-fulfilled postulators.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
|
We could go the Hubers route circa 2000ish and put white dots of tape next to holds (El Nino?). Or Hubers circa 2003 which was tick stripes (Zodiac, we climbed it while they were up there working on the FFA). That was a rare instance where I was glad to see someone else's tick marks (just to marvel at what they were using for feet on the Nipple pitch, it was ridiculous and cool to see). But there's not really any tourist/bird watcher type impacts from tick marks 1000' off the deck, and I sure as hell wasn't trying to free pitches up there, so it didn't impact my experience negatively.
No real point here other than, "it's all shades of gray"
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
|
I'm kinda on board with the kiwi...if you have "sweaty palms" then maybe climbing, nor dating, is in your cards.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
|
I've seen pics of that Italian square artwork before, would love to catch that in person sometime. Tick marks - a bummer - and who under the age of 50 brushes them off.
|
|
drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
|
so im a horrible climber because i use tick marks? and so are the hubers and most other "hard" climbers? the fact is that we have probably developed a lot more fa and climbed a lot harder then you tick mark haters. although climbing hard is relative you have to admit that the holds and sequences are harder to remember on a 5.13 or v10 then on a 5.9 or v1. if you dont know this thats because youve probably never done a 5.13 or v10. and thats not even that "hard" anymore. its the tick stripes that are annoying and when used they need to be removed. also when every hold is ticked or the footholds are chalked (which usually decreases friction) that is lame. but a tiny tick mark next to a few key holds can not even be seen by most non climbers that share the outdoors with us. and compared to the chalk all over the holds it is not even an issue i think. i agree with the "grey area" a few tiny tick marks are fine but leaving huge tick stripes and ticking every hold is lame. and no i was not at crsp a few weeks ago so it wasnt me :) my guess is it was some of the gym climber punks from the nearby cities with more muscles then brains and no respect for the outdoors.
ticks dig me.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
|
...but a tiny tick mark next to a few key holds can not even be seen by most non climbers that share the outdoors with us.
Maybe not 20 pitches up on El Cap, but at bouldering venues and crags they are imminently visible and to dismiss that impact is taking a pretty casual and foolish attitude at places like CRSP where tensions are already running high. Resource managers at agencies take this stuff seriously, climbers get f#cked pretty much every time when we blow it off as stupid or inconvenient. Whining after the fact doesn't really cut it.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
|
Sprock, I'll give you a hand on that Aquarian choss when things dry out.
|
|
drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
|
that is true and i know this and yes people need to not get the wrong idea that i think it is ok to tick everywhere but really a few tiny tick marks are not that big of a deal compared to the huge tick stripes that are the issue as i mentioned and also compared to the huge chalk marks from sweaty palm people like me it is not that big of a deal. but yes all this needs to be considered at places with possible access issues. there are probably a lot of other things that will be a problem - not tick marks. ive seen lots of real spray paint graffiti and trash and broken glass at all these areas and a few tick marks is not that big of a deal comparitivly.
to say im a horrible climber because i tick mark is just asking for me to reply. i do like to argue.
how about the graffiti in the stoner cave at aquarian now that is something to talk about. if i caught those punks - they would be in for a mess of sh#t.
castle has beautiful rock by the way, i love it.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
|
If the rock is ugly, like CRSP, who cares?
God hates you for saying CRSP is ugly. She told me so.
new proposition: DrunkenMrSummitMaster will take the affirmative and Weschrist will take the opposition. You each will have 3 posts within which to make your points, or finish your drinks, whichever is first.
The proposition is:
Old E in the Valley is weak.
|
|
pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
|
methinks chalk begets chalk.
i go with a strip ripped off a notel 6 towel hanging off the back of my harness. a pal turned me onto the fact (ok, hypothesis) that stopping to chalk up is far more about getting one's synapses aligned than any friction advantage worthy of note. i've found this to be true. though on the full disclosure front, i will admit i've at times rubbed some chalk into my stolen towel on especially sweaty days.
i do this even on soapy chalked up trade routes. i ask myself 'is a poofy dust glove really gonna make a difference on a route where all the lockers and knobs already look like guano?' and i answer 'nah'. though i have been known to give myself a 2 adjective upgrade in my own head after i top out on a really soapy route. but i soon forget the number and just remember the line.
~~~
as for tick marks, i deem them cheesy. if you can't remember a sequence, even at your absolute limit (better put: especially at your absolute limit) -- then maybe you should consider checking in for detox, or at least a downshift from the mighty 40 ouncers to the more pedestrian 12 ouncers. sheesh.
on the very hardest stuff i've ever done (nothing especially massive, but not entirely lame), i can recall every sequence at will, to this very day. i sometimes even dream them. i've checked my memories with pals who been up these routes since and found my memories on target (the blue hair betties down at the diner must wonder WTF we are up to as we go through what looks like a cross between tai chi and mime down in booth five). but to date, my pals and i always mirror the same sequences, in real time -- they remembering a month ago, me mostly years ago.
to my small mind, if you can't do that perhaps best to take up bowling. they use chalk (i think), and they don't have to remember anything. ok, i guess they do need to remember which ball is theirs.
~~~
that said, i guess if you are attempting a quarter mile of .13+++ in a day, maybe the rules are different. (dogboy rule #26: don't question the tactics of your betters whose skills and output tower over your own.)
that and perhaps i should send Tom Bodett a check for the 75 or so towels i, er, borrowed from him.
^,,^
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
drunkenmaster: "ticks dig me!?" was really funny, albeit somewhat less so the second time.
|
|
Wack
climber
Dazevue
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
|
"COLORED CHALK IS UNACCEPTABLE"
The first gen stuff was like having graphite smeared on the holds. I had hoped the new stuff was better.
|
|
LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
|
The newer eco-chalk doesn't smear from my experience, but then again I don't coat my hand in the stuff (just the tips of my fingers), and use only on the sweatiest days, as someone else mentioned, I use a towel / shirt for drying my hands.
Most often or not,not having the chalk bag, I find, can be better (most times) because it's not a "psychological crutch". Allowing for constant flow in movement and not a break or a 'waste of motion' chalking...it may sound unusual but sometimes stopping to chalk up seems to waste more energy(for me)than help.
At the same stroke,having chalk on a hot humid day or sweaty day can help, and help save one save energy from being wasted fighting against sweat
I agree with DrunkenMaster, on harder sequences or long sequence routes / boulder problems, sometimes having a small tick "can" help (especially hard foot sequences)
At the same time I also agree with Pip the Dog, that ticking for a sequence can detract from the problem, and in some instances could be "Cheating?", rather than relying on the mind, memory & experience to make up for the differences. (Relying on natural markings, rock discrepencies, enagrams, "mind/movement" sequences, etc to help)
However the greater point is:
Have fun climbing & be a good steward to the rock and area around b/c it's for everyone and everything to enjoy.
Cheers
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!