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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
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I am already in line for when money can be spent on this guidebook. The needles are just about the only place that I truly considered inspiring in Kali. (Prob because I never put eyes on the gorge of despair)
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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Pre Order Money Ready to go...
Yup. :D
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Hey Kris- do you still need pics? You had asked int he past. Happy to provide
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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nathanael, thank you for updating the caption.
That's great news on the new guidebook!
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Tipkiss
Trad climber
CA
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just crossed my mind..
Is the new guidebook going to cover parker bluff, sentinel peak, merlin dome, K & I wonderbluff and others?
or is this guide strictly for Needles, Dome Rock, and Hermit Spire?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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From the intro:
This is the third published climbing guide for The Needles. The first, dating from 1983, was the Stonemasher Rockclimbing Guide to the Kern River Canyon and Environs, by E. C. Joe and Richard Leversee. In 1992 Sally Moser, Greg Vernon and Patrick Paul released volume two of Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: The Needles Area. Long out of print, these volumes have gained status as classics, and used copies have changed hands for respectable sums of money. Both of these books include climbing areas throughout the Kern and the Tule River Canyons.
This book has a narrower scope: The Needles, their stately neighbor Dome Rock, and their sister crag to the north, Hermit Spire. Today there are enough climbing areas throughout the Kern and Tule Canyons that one book covering them all would be a large volume indeed, and only the likes of Norman Clyde would toss such a tome into his backpack.
Hazed, we're pretty well covered for pictures, but feel free to email me a few jpgs. I'll message you the address now. Be sure to tell me who the climbers are if you know.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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some needles rainy day dreaming. thanks for the intro answer/teaser
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ec
climber
ca
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Kris - first published guide I am aware of is a section of Roper's High Sierra guide, the light green one, 1976.
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ec
climber
ca
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I believe you are correct, however it was a High Sierra Guide, not a specific Needles Guide. There was a small section on the area.
 ec
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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anyone guess? crux move to the anchor
Credit: shylock
Looks like 2nd pitch Don Jaun Wall.
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ec
climber
ca
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Go East Rincon...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Wow, two shots of the S Crack. How is that? Was eyeballing that when doing the South Face with Cancer Boy a couple of years ago. Perhaps an excuse to work on my pathetic wide skills.
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Friend
climber
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I was going to guess Ice Pirates
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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anyone guess? crux move to the anchor
Yeah, I was stumped (and ashamed to admit it) but I think Ice Pirates is a good call.
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ec
climber
ca
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More like Wide Pirates...SSSSSS-Crackkkk
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Just to be clear I was talking about Shylok's third pic.
Trivia, on the FA of S Crack they took the diagonal line up and right above the chimney pitch. Thus the "S."
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Mar 29, 2016 - 03:04pm PT
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Need more needles pics.. Or recommendations for must-do routes on a first trip there (up to 11-). Or speculation on how soon the road might open this spring.
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 30, 2016 - 10:53am PT
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nathanael,
Try an old school approach; hike-in, see a line you like & climb it!
ec
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 30, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Nathaniel,
The rangers are the ones who decide when to open the gate. It hasn't been a particularly heavy snow year up there, so I'm guessing it will be likely be sometime before Memorial Day. If you're really jonesing to get up there, you could do what ec said, though add a day or two, or hike in from the lower road by Voodoo. Stuff on Warlock can be approached from that direction--South Face, Imaginary Voyage, Planet Waves, etc.
As for route recommendations, it's all good. If you need help deciding between three vs. four star routes, look at something like Mountain Project.
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