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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2005 - 12:21am PT
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Hola Taco,
I think there's no Needles guide currently in print.
Can you guys give me the names/authors of the out of print guide(s), so I can start looking around for used copies? Anyone got one they want to unload?
Thanks!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 12:33am PT
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I think Laeger is one name.
Good luck with that. I happen to have partners with the book. Neener neener.
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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Sep 29, 2005 - 12:35am PT
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Patrick Paul, Greg Vernon, Sally Moser
ISBN 0-934641-43-9
Published and Distributed by:
Chockstone Press, Inc.
Post Office Box 3505
Evergreen, CO 80439
I'm takin' this book to my grave! SoCal Select has some of the classics in it too!
Good Luck!
Thin Ice, Airy Interlude, Spooky, Fancy Free,
South Face of the Warlock....ahhhh....i need to go back now!!!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 12:37am PT
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Well maculated, perhaps YOUR partners should become MY partners. Mwuhahahaha!
*burp* and is socal select in print?
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:01am PT
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Perhaps they should. But you know, I gave you Meg, and she's a mutual partner/friend. You should give up living in silly Davis and you'd have a lot better access to the good stuff, if you get what I mean.
::wink wink::
OOOOOh, she's frisky tonight!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 01:05am PT
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What? And leave all my precious choss?
hahaha
Oh wait, maybe I'm single for a reason. Har!
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Sep 29, 2005 - 10:44am PT
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What's stopping SuperTaco from producing a guide to this area?
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:27pm PT
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Well, they ARE coming out with another guide.
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climrgrl
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 08:20pm PT
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I've gotten 2 copies through Amazon, using their used book pre-order service. It took about a year per copy, but hey, I have a Needles guidebook (sorry, gave the second one to a friend).
http://s1.amazon.com/exec/varzea/preorder/new/0934641439/ref=dp_order_used/002-9292187-8053652
I'd suggest selecting "Any" for condition, maybe $50 as maximum price, and 12 weeks to keep the order open. Amazon emails you when your order is about to expire, and asks if you want to extend it. Keep clicking yes. Good luck!
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chuey
climber
Ca.
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May 29, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Any word on a new guidebook?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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I've been working on a guide for the last three years. It is basically done and going into graphic design after a few more editorial decisions. Kevin Daniels is publishing this book. Y'all can look forward to a high quality informative volume.
This is not something I can rush out. It's a "labor of love," as they say and one thing it will offer which online sources do not have is thorough historical research. Anyway here's how it's laid out:
Table of Contents:
Foreword by EC Joe and Richard Leversee
Acknowledgements
Introduction
About this book
Getting there
Weather
Logistics, camping and accommodations
Rest day activities
Ratings and local ethics
Gear
In an emergency
Climbing history
Geology “The Gift of Granite” by Michael Loughman
About the Author
The Needles
Welcome to The Needles
Approach beta
Magician Saddle
Djin Saddle
Djin-Charlatan Notch
The Main Notch
Witch Warlock Notch
Warlock East Gulley
Dome Rock
Overview and History
Approaches
The Routes
Hermit Spire
Overview and History
Approaches
The Routes
As you can see this book has a narrower scope than previous guides: The Needles, their stately neighbor to the south Dome Rock, and their sister crag to the north, Hermit Spire. Today there are enough climbing areas dispersed throughout the Kern and Tule Canyons that one book covering them all would be a large volume indeed, and only the likes of Norman Clyde would toss such a tome into his backpack.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 29, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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I've been working on a guide for the last three years. It is basically done and going into graphic design after a few more editorial decisions.
Wonderful, wonderful news!
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Aerili
climber
SLC, Utah
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May 29, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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Sweet! By the way, I borrowed a copy of the old guidebook when I went to the Needles and I found it fairly useless. Paying $700+ for something like that? .... hmmmm.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 29, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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Indeed wonderful news!
thank you KSolem for hard work, good lack with your "labor of love"
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 29, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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I borrowed a copy of the old guidebook when I went to the Needles and I found it fairly useless. I think it's a pretty useful guide. Gets you to the crags, shows you where the routes are; what more do you need? Worth $700? No way. But a decent guide nonetheless.
Having said that, looking forward to Kris' new edition. Maybe that way I can actually confirm whether or not I climbed the Beckey route on Hermit Spire.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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The Moser, Vernon, Pat Paul book was a very good effort at the time. As I have found out, The Needles is a very difficult area to represent in a book. It's not that big an area but it is complex. Patrick's Dome Rock coverage is flawless. There are some substantial problems with the routes on Hermit which took a few expeditions and some detective work to sort out. I hope that my decision, to organize and present the Needles routes according to which notch/gully they are approached from (rather than which formation they are on) works well for users of the guide. To me this is the climbers point of view. For example, routes on the east face of Charlatan and Sorcerer are neighbors, while routes on the west faces of those same formations are in an other place entirely.
The book will include some spectacular aerial images taken from Dwight Krolls' plane a few weeks ago. Here's an out-take (sorry, I have to keep the good ones for the book.) I'll say that Dwight is an Ace, and once he got the feel of the air and terrain we got a lot closer than this...
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