Reardon--some climbing, some slander?

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 20 of total 235 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2006 - 05:50pm PT

Reports are filtering in that MR was seen toproping the Vampire at Taquitz last weekend. Allegedly, he was hanging, despite his claims that he free soloed the thing 3x (with no one watching.)

Was anyone here there to witness this event?

Does this cast doubt on the claim of the onsight FS of Romantic Warrior?

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Jul 19, 2006 - 05:54pm PT

Oh yeah hey, nobody ever had a bad day, un-uh, no sireeebobby, never.

It is inconceivable that any climber who ever free soloed anything could possibly hang on any route ever again in their life, that just can't happen.

Not in a thousand years.

Blitzo

Social climber

Earth

Jul 19, 2006 - 05:54pm PT

Sounds like there is something fishy going on!
We can't talk about this subject at joshuatreeclimb.com!

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2006 - 05:56pm PT

Dirt, a route you had FS'ed 3 times previously? That is something like 8 grades easier than a really long climb that you onsite FSed?

I'm just askin...

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jul 19, 2006 - 05:59pm PT

So in the recent Gripped magazine, there is a photo of Reardon free soloing on Romantic Warrior. Who took the picture? Wasn't this ascent witnessed? Why is his credibility doubted if there was a witness present, with a camera?

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2006 - 06:00pm PT

Pete,

if I'm not mistaken, he only went back and did a few sections FS of RW with a camera, not including the crux. the onsite was not photographed.

but please chime in if someone has more info. I don't generally keep up on the mags.

Russ Walling

Social climber

Out on the sand, Man.....

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:01pm PT

Hey Pete,
After you "Hardy Boys" the WOS event, maybe you can get to the bottom of this MR thing. Geraldo = PTPP

dirtineye

Trad climber

the south

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:03pm PT

Caughtwithpantsdown,

Hell yes things I have soloed or highballed, some of them over nad over, are on my "do not repeat on a bad day' list.

And since all my days are bad right now I can certainly understand MR having one or two or a bunch.

This idea that you should solo stuff for cameras and witnesses is so counter to what climbing is about, especially free soloing, man, it makes me want to puke.

The idea that someone who free solos should do so on demand like a dancing bear to please the crowd is putrid to say the least.

G_Gnome

Social climber

Tendonitis City

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:03pm PT

Pete, supposedly photos were taken later and he didn't do the hard pitch that day. I have known Mike forever, but even I have doubts. I just don't see any point in confronting him with it because I like having him as a friend and why f#ck that up over climbing? But I have never fallen on the vampire.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2006 - 06:07pm PT

dirt,

I see your point, but this guy is all publicity about this. so he does the onsite w/ no photos. great. Then he comes back with a photog, does some pitches, no crux, and they are an 8 page spread in Climbing. They gave him the uber prestigous Golden Piton!

heh, the Golden Piton still cracks me up. Dude, who was climber of the year this year?

Hardman Knott

Gym climber

Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:07pm PT

Dirt, how many multi-pitch, insecure 511's have you freesolo'd and then subsequently
struggled with on toprope?

rlf

Trad climber

Josh, CA

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:08pm PT

Well, all I know is that myself and two other people watched him first hand last winter trying to solo butterfly crack at Trash Can rock here in the park. He had two of his photo catamites in tow. HE WAS USING A CRASH PAD. He took a total of 5 falls off the crux before sending it.

I really don't know if did solo RW or not, or the vampire or etc etc etc. I would think however, if you are soloing stuff that hard onsight, Butterly Crack should have been a walk in the park.

Who knows. It's all very doubtful to me. I also find it very interesting that guys like Croft don't seem to have this problem with credibility.

Russ Walling

Social climber

Out on the sand, Man.....

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:20pm PT

Fuk sake Robert.... he solos sequential 5.12b onsite hundreds of feet off the deck. Not pad protected V1minus entry moves into 5.8 hands. Apples / Oranges.

NeverSurfaced

Trad climber

Someplace F*#ked!

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:25pm PT

Can-o-worms, can-o-worms.

Did anyone see the flick "return to sender" with MR's ranting. Pretty humorous.

I give him credibility points based upon the haircut alone. You can’t sport that butt-rock era quaff unless you know you’re the sh#t.

rlf

Trad climber

Josh, CA

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:26pm PT

Maybe, I've seen a number of far lesser folk walk that thing. Who knows. BTW, what route/problem is that picture?

JAK

climber

Central NC

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:29pm PT

Let me see if I've followed this thread correctly so far:

1) Mike Reardon is a largely well known free-soloist. (Given)

2) Someone sees Reardon climbing a fairly easy climb on TR, hangs, suddenly doubts his harder FSs.

This may come as a shock to some of you but...there are days when I want to climb for enjoyment, not climb hard. There are days where even if I'm on a route well below my grade, I might hang if I get tired simply because I don't feel like ramboing.

I would have to think you'd need something more than a weak hearsay circumstantial evidence rumor from a third party to cast doubt on the guys claim to fame.

Let me repeat that in case it didn't sink in:

hearsay circumstantial evidence rumor from a third party

You'll pardon me if I don't suddenly consider him a 5.7 climber.

Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno, CA

Jul 19, 2006 - 06:30pm PT

At the same token, I know, for a fact, a few people have lied about him *not* being somewhere he actually was. Also know, for a fact, that some people lied about what he was wearing when he *was* at the place he supposedly wasn't... The place, being an ascent/climb. The clothing being important due to temps, etc.. People's excuse for him not having climbed it was he wasn't/couldn't have been there and he wasn't dressed appropraitely. I think folks said he was wearing jeans or something. I could care less either way. Just saying that, assuming he has lied about some things, the lies happen on both sides.