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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Bosch rotohammer, hilti bits
cuts like butta : )
ok i am a troll… but really, everyone clips those 1/2" suckers i have left there, and they love them.
the other way to approach it, is if you really do not like them, don't clip, climb past them.
You will have more biological impact, buiding and maintaining a single access trail to a route, than all he bolts at joshua tree. if you are concerned about the environment, then worry about accelerated mass wasting and trail cutting. or the soil compaction and vegetation trampling of multiple trails. but don't represent your concern about bolts as environmental… bolts are basicly biologically inert. If you are worried about bolts, it is you trying to force your ethics on others, but it is clearly not about bettering the environment.
Ed
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2014 - 04:51am PT
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I've looked at those Snow Peak tent peg hammers and wondered who they would work. I have a fiberglass handle and want to make a hammer for it. The fiberglass handle is a bit heavier so it will "handle" different.
Ed - power drilling is not permitted in some areas so it is a moot point there. I don't think power drilled bolts are somehow contaminated and shouldn't be clipped, in my mind power drilling doesn't seem as sporting. Also, when I see bolts in inappropriate places, it always seems to be a power drilled bolt.
The sporting part is what I find most satisfying. If catching fish was the point of fishing, fishermen wouldn't bother with fly poles. If a person thinks catching fish is the point of fishing, they don't get it. Putting meat in the freezer generally isn't the point of deer hunting either.
The point of climbing isn't making the ascent as easy as possible.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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The snow peak head works pretty good. I cut the sides to make it square. I don't think it will last as long as some heads, seems to be a softer metal.
Banquo - I'm looking for a hammer with a longer pick for cleaning out cracks and such. Something like a chouinard alpine hammer or maybe a salewa? I was wondering how the shaft is set in the head of the salewa? Would I be able to get it out?
Anyone want to sell me a chouinard alpine hammer for a reasonable price?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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JohnKelly-
I'm in Michigan right now. When I get back to California I can post some photos of the Salewa. It is a very light hammer and I would only consider it for backup or emergency use.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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JohnKelly,
For extensive crack cleaning, the old Pacific NW trick of using an ice axe works great.
Better depth and leverage.
Hammering into the crack usually doesn't accomplish much in granite.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Clint - that's what I've been doing. Free climbing with an ice axe is a pita. So is driving pins.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
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johnkelley-
Here are some photos of the Salewa Rockhammer. I really think it is too small to do very much drilling with. One could clean with it though.
I think you would be better off to find an old straight handled ice hammer. Omega Pacific used to make the Bulldog which was cheap, small and not much good for climbing. It might work. It looks like you could take the handle out of the head and cut the handle down. You could also make a different pick or drill new holes in the pick to have less droop. Might be hard to find one but whoever has one probably doesn't want it.
Even harder to find would be the Forrest Nut Hammer. A person could make one like this but the pick is welded on so you would have to heat treat it after welding. Would need welding equipment and a kiln.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Aug 12, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
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Maybe I'll try to put a longer shaft on a Salewa?
Maybe a "hammer collector" would part with an alpine hammer?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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I don't know how you would get the handle off the Salewa since it doesn't go through the head. 400 degrees F will release most adhesives though. I would assume the tempering temperature is above that and you won't ruin the steel.
Otherwise, if there is something you desire, simply fork out the money and buy it. Nobody is going to sell you an "alpine hammer" for less than they think they can get on Ebay.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Aug 13, 2014 - 09:58am PT
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A friend of mine is mailing me two. I asked how much? He said cheap. First thing I'll do is get rid of the wooden handle, grind a little, destroy the collection value...
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 13, 2014 - 08:20am PT
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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I haven't done any drilling speed tests since I figured out the design for the DAMMERR. So, today I got out an unused DAMMERR (#8), one of my bayonet drill holders and a freshly sharpened bit to see what I could do. I managed to drill a 2-1/8" deep, 3/8" hole in 4 minutes and 30 seconds in hard granite. This is a drill rate of 0.47 inches per minute which is pretty good compared to my past results. The fastest I managed when I tested all the different hammers was 0.44 inches per minute. I think I was faster today because I am better at sharpening bits and I used the bayonet holder rather than the Rocpec I used in the earlier tests. I thought I might be slower since I haven't done any drilling since last fall and my arm is weak.
YouTube video below. Don't worry, I sped up the playback so it isn't too long:
https://youtu.be/fezX_2M080Q
Old test data:
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