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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Not only insight on how not to climb, but also quite a thorough example of how not to belay..
I'm going climbing; Peace
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MH2
climber
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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from post #733:
my head was in the right place for that deep, mental challenge
Going into length about solos would be wrong. What Hamish did say was good - enough details for us to know what he did, no unnecessary adjectives, important advice about downclimbing, and that last hint about mental state.
It's a kind of risky and brave thing to write for an audience you may not know, and I'm sure glad that Hamish has made the effort. I only know him by reputation going back to the 80s and have huge respect for his climbing, but his willingness to chip in to this discussion has added a new sort of respect.
Hope he doesn't quit while he's ahead, though!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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Well, speaking of soloing and Squamish, I guess I should come clean about a little route from a few years ago. Kind of inspired by things like the Master's Edge and other gritstone climbs in England. Grappling and pressing up the edge of a corner, maybe even a bit of laybacking. I was a bit fitter then, and it was pretty airy and energetic, but a pleasant outing. Kind of a nuisance with two ropes for rappelling, but I didn't want to bother continuing up the Sword - left something for Scott. And downclimbing the bolt ladder on the Grand is such a pain.
You could protect it by leading on two ropes, and placing gear in the cracks to each side. No need for bolts - leave it pure. Might need two belayers, though. Anyway, it would be sad if someone went and retro-bolted the thing, thinking it'd never been climbed. "Leave nothing but rubber and chalk prints, take nothing but photos" - that was my motto. So this is a world exclusive.
It must be pretty hard by modern standards - the handstand dyno took a bit of thought. But it's all there, as Marc says - mono doigts galore. I admit I mini-traxioned it once or twice, to clean off a bit of loose stuff, so it was a headcase point - a true on-sight ascent is still waiting. Have at it!
Anyway, it may provide a nice variation for people on Genius Loci and such, sort of a direct indirect. I decided to call it the Outside Edge, which may be symbolic of something or other.
What! You say that hamie and tricouni did it in 1967! No way!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Oh Lord, pass me some of those big words. They're awesome.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 23, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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I went for a ripper mnt. bike ride today and was feeling a little too good. This is often when things go wrong and before I knew it, I crashed. It hurt. Actually, it hurt so much I had to lie there, in the bush, for awhile.
That's all part of the sport and if you want to play, you're gunna pay. Feeling a little cold and not so comfy on my little moss and dirt patch, I got to thinking more about solo stories.
I try to spread the news as much as possible to friends about how great mtn. biking is but at the same time, I completely understand anyone who would rather not. It's a harsh learning curve, especially for us older folk, and when you crash it can really hurt.
Bla-bla-bla, that got me thinking I'd better hold off on any solo stories. I certainly don't want to plant that seed in anyone's head. Solo rockclimbing is for a tiny, tiny, percentage of the group, and speaking only from an "odds" point of view, the less people doing it, the better.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 23, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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/weaksauce trend in the commentator set is the "How Big" question, as in
"How big was it for your side to score first?" with, of course, endless
meaningless variations possible.
I always imagine the athlete responding with widespread hands, "It was
THIS BIG!"
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Feb 23, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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More stories please!
I hiked up to the top of Squamish with friends and smoked some dope back in spring of 1969.
Crawled out to peer over the edge at the top.
Scary!
Haven't been back to Squamish since, but I do appreciate the area.
Started technical climbing in Idaho that same summer.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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Re: Soloing
I've had people ask me if Honnold inspired me to start soloing. The answer is no. I started to solo before I even knew who Honnold was. The only reason I ever did it in the first place is because it was a beautiful day out, and I could find no one at all to climb. Tried everyone in my address book, people on Squamish Climbing, got nothing. I just decided I was going to go up by myself, because there was no way I was not climbing that day.
 I actually ran into another guy by himself up there, and afterwards we came down and did some routes in the Bluffs together.
I would rather climb something hard with a partner rather than solo most days. Sometimes I just want a break though, and to get some mileage.
I didn't start because someone 'inspired' me, or for any reason other than myself. It was a very personal decision.
For me, I don't try to talk about it as a means of showing off. I'll mention something I did if I was stoked on it. Same way any other climber would speak of the route they just onsighted, or the project they just sent. Is that wrong?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Jim that quote is priceless!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 23, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Words to (hopefully) live by ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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(Not many fish biting today - darn!)
Well, I believe that all climbers solo sometimes - it's part of the territory. You climb, you solo. Of course, some consciously seek it out, and do aid walls, lots of moderate free climbing, or in a few cases free solo hard climbs. But we all do it, to some extent. The important thing is to know when we're doing it, understand why we're doing it, and adjust the risk/reward balance accordingly. Eyes and brain open and working.
My comment/quote upthread was somewhat tongue in cheek - in fact, arguably climbing shouldn't be spoken about in polite company, let alone soloing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 24, 2012 - 03:59am PT
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Hi Hamish,
The fact that you soloed & down climbed exasperator in the most primitive guide tennies is just mind blowing, haha what an awesome day that must have been! Thanks for the inspiring stories!
this whole thread is awesome reading while the rock is soaked!
Ryan
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 24, 2012 - 08:09am PT
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QFT on each point there MH.
It is too early for a young person like myself to function......
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 24, 2012 - 08:38am PT
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Grug - did Canada actually give you the boot? Or are you being weird? If so, I didn't realize the border agency knew that Aficionados of the Wyde were persona non grata :-D
The worst part was, I was thinking I was doing myself a favor bringing up the Wyde stuff. When things weren't looking good, I thought that maybe name dropping Pipeline at Squamish would MEAN something to this angry customs agent. Apparently it did, but in the opposite way I was hoping.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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Well here is one suggestion... don't solo anything for photos.
One day, a couple of generations ago, Peder asked me if I'd solo clean crack so he could get a picture. Oh yah, I'm sure I could pull that off. I had climbed that pitch alone several times but not since the previous season and we hadn't even climbed at the malemute for weeks, if not months. The plot thickened up a little when the Bear informed me he wanted the steam train in the background. Hmmm., I thought. That sounds a little like, climb-on-command. Oh well, how bad could it be.
We knew the Royal Hudson plowed through squampton at about one o'clock so we went down early for some warming up. I wanted to lead that thing just to make sure I was going to be up to the task.
The three of us headed down; Peder, Eddie, and myself. Poor little Eddie had to be tied up at the base of caboose as he was going to be the only one on the ground when that train rolled by. I led it, felt fine, then I followed it to yank the gear out. Still felt fine. I hung a rope off the top of caboose and rapped off.
One o'clock was getting closer so the Bear jugged up the fixed rope and started mucking with his camera. I hung out on the railway tracks, jogging on the spot to keep warm. This went on for a little while and I remember getting a few butterflies. I also had to take care not to get my rock shoes in the oil-related spew that was all over the wooden ties.
Holy Sh#t, here comes the train. It was a ways off but the Bear wanted me on the crux as it came by so I figured I'd better just climb as fast as I could.
Things are going pretty well, I'm a little rushed but feeling good. I'm just approaching the crux and suddenly that thundering mass of steel comes hauling around the corner. Oh man, I had no idea it would be so earth-shattering. I'm launching into the crux, the train is railing by, and the noise is killing me. Suddenly it all seems too much and I decide to bail.
I reach down and start trying to work my fingers in the jam but it's not feeling very good, at all. A little more chalk, but that's not helping. Somewhere across the wall, Peder is shooting a whole roll, Eddie is down at the base, probably as scared as I am, due to the goddamn train, and here I am, having a bit of an epic of my own.
I've given this downclimbing thing almost everything I had and I'm starting to feel pretty pumped. All I had to do was make it through the crux and then the jams improved drastically. Getting close to the reserve tank, I plowed on ahead and cranked my way up there.
Peder and I returned to the base, joyfully untied Eddie and we all hung out there for awhile; two idiots and a dog. Eddie was giving us that look...maybe you guys should consider full time employment?
I picked my arms up off the gravel and we got out of there.
No more soloing for photos.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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I promise; no more solo stories.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Peder where are you? I tried to find a copy of this iconic photo to link but alas to no avail. Anyone else seen one on the net?
Hamish f- I wouldn't mind. It's not like you are glorifying it by acting like it was no big deal. Have you thought about free U-Wall yet?
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MH2
climber
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Feb 24, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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Well, in the telling it was hilarious.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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great story. kinda goes to the general feeling of when you get off your rhythm as well, which certainly applies to roped climbs. see Walleye's story about a butterballs solo gone almost wrong for a photo--sweaty but hilarious. And involving one of the best ever YV climbers. Didn't a famous guy once bail from a crescent arch solo? (sorry, this is supposed to be about squamish.) These stories are invaluable, I think. Plus, text on ST can't come close to the vids out there for "influencing kids."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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A few skeptics are apparently saying - we won't name names - that the Outside Edge is imaginary, a figment of my imagination. Some that I couldn't solo the backside trail let alone Cat Crack. Just because I was found wandering disoriented around Psyche Ledge, days after leaving, muttering about ice runnels and the Fissure of Conkwest, and demanding to be taken to the Tastee Freeze. Are climbers no longer to be taken at their word? Is nothing sacred?
So I'm planning to return this summer with a grappling hook and rocket, to repeat the route. While there, I'll install a line of bolts for the lesser mortals who simply aren't man, woman or cat enough for the climb. That'll show them, eh.
The Bear has a copy of the Clean Crack/Royal Hudson/Hamish poster on the wall at home. Seems pretty delicate for a solo. When we used to climb there, especially in the Caboose area, we'd always freeze when the train was coming. Made the earth shake.
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