Drug Dome Ice, 12/17/11

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mctwisted

Social climber

paradise

Dec 18, 2011 - 08:55pm PT

werner, yeh i'm pretty sure walt and fosburg are the only ones to climb the whole thing from bottom to top
dreamstream + yabo tooth + upper sentinel = over 2000' ice

fosburg

climber

Dec 18, 2011 - 09:16pm PT

Crazy that the Tioga road is open. Thinking of maybe saddling up...

mctwisted

Social climber

paradise

Dec 18, 2011 - 09:21pm PT

come on down fos, ill set you up

PeteC

climber

Dec 19, 2011 - 12:19am PT

The previously mentioned Clouds Rest ice was, in fact, very very fun. Climbed it today.

730 ft. 4 pitches.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Dec 19, 2011 - 12:33am PT

I saw this guy on the way through the meadows today.

mctwisted

Social climber

paradise

Dec 19, 2011 - 12:34am PT

good job guys, way to get after it!

bergbryce

Mountain climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Dec 19, 2011 - 01:19am PT

Oh $hit, time to quit my job.

Karen

Trad climber

So Cal urban sprawl Hell

Dec 19, 2011 - 01:39am PT

Wow, we may not have snow but the ice sure looks sweet. Envious too but glad you guys are out enjoying it! Keep posting up pics.

BMcC

Trad climber

Livermore

Dec 19, 2011 - 02:57am PT

Here's a pic of the entire Sentinel Falls with Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg approximately at the first and second belays on the first day (1/8/89) of their several day ascent - the first and only ascent of the entire falls. Kevin Cox and I had climbed the Dream Stream the day before and, not prepared to bivy, had rapped off... It had snowed lightly during the day, hitting us with spindrift avalanches periodically that spanned the entire width of the ice. As I recall, the air temp was below 10 F when we got down to my truck somewhat after midnight.

Cropped/enlarged version of same pic:

BMcC

Trad climber

Livermore

Dec 19, 2011 - 03:05am PT

Here's another pic of the entire Sentinel Falls (from 04):

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Dec 19, 2011 - 03:47am PT

Any more pics/ details PeteC?

jsavage

climber

Bishop, CA

Dec 19, 2011 - 11:05am PT

Pete did you get a shot from Olmstead Pt? Good job!

Brian Biega

climber

Truckee, CA

Dec 20, 2011 - 12:28am PT

Awesome shots and thread...

Thanks all!

Brian

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Dec 22, 2011 - 02:08am PT

Questions for those who climbed this drugdome route:

How would you rate it (honestly)? Did it protect well, or had long questionable sections?
Did you walk off, or rapped the route to the side?

I really want to do it, but don't want to get over my head (started ice climbing a bit only last winter).

mctwisted

Social climber

paradise

Dec 22, 2011 - 07:04am PT

vitaliy, the climb is two pitches, or around 300'. 3 raps with 70 m rope to the west of route on crystal meth, actually if you lead the last pitch of ice and instead of climbing to trees, cut right to the last anchor of meth it saves a fair bit of time on the raps (i saw a couple parties do this)
i have not done the route, but have climbed the rock underneath it, so know the angle, and watched 7 parties climb it, it looked like pro wherever you wanted it and looks to be in the class 3 range,(im sure someone thats done it will chime in here)
in the photo you can see the steep little section just above the climber (with a bit of chandelier icicles), which is more powerful climbing, but there is an abundance of small ledges to go for (and throughout the route)
looks like pure fun, almost as much fun as spending all day taking pics of guys climbing it :)