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CF
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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Anybody know if this has ever been climbed? I had heard that Mead Harrgis climbed it years ago.
There is also a spectacular ice ribbon all the way down Clouds Rest visible from Omlsted Point.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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The road is still open. This could be an interesting year for ice access.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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I climbed it in '79 or '80 with Kane Brightman and Chas and Anne McQuarie. Chas and Anne were the winter rangers at the time. Skiing in from Lee Vining with all the gear, climbing the thing, and skiing back out was a five or six day expedition. I broke a pair of Hexcels at the base of the route and had to ski all the way out with one ski that basically didn't slide.
We had heard that Charlie Porter had previously climbed it. Maybe with Mead, I don't know. We figured ours was probably the second ascent.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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theres also a rap route if you have a 70m rope on the very left side of the black streak (crystal ball 5.10a/b). 4 raps
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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And there is a rap route to the right (Crystal Meth 5.8), 3 raps with a 70m, but still webbing/rings at the top 2 stations (I think). Close with a 70, watch rope ends. Approx anchor locations:
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 18, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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a spectacular ice ribbon all the way down Clouds Rest Logistics seem reasonable(?) - From 120, down Airplane Gully to the base of CR, summit, descend HD trail to valley.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 18, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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The road is still open. This could be ...
I'd read that the Tioga road is open. Does this mean all the way through the Meadows, or just up to the park entrance? Just interested...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Dec 18, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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Open means all the way.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 18, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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Does that happen very often?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 18, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
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We figured ours was probably the second ascent.
What was it like Bob? Pics?
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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Porter climbed it with Billy Nichol.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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nice iceman! (cragman), thats some good looking stuff. 3-4 pitches of wi3???
walk off or rap?
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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You guys are loving it!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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That looks like a great line.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
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fos, heres a shot from today in the valley, like you i think of walt every time i look up there, you dont have any pics from the old days do you???
unfortunately the dream stream below is not in
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
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Wow! I bet a bunch of unusual ice is forming in these conditions. Strike while the iron is hot!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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Woah, nice.
(eyes bugging out)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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It's super duper rare to get that freeze formation on Sentinel Falls.
It's only got one ascent ever. Right Kevin, Dan ...?
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