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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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I'm failing to see what the seam grip did for you
Actually JLP, the manufacturers of both 5.10 and La sportiva recommend that if you are going to CLIMB in them, you should seam seal every stich.
My camp 4's are in their second season, not a single rip, or delam is noticeable. The heel cup will blow out before anything else.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
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I third the seam sealer recommendation JLP.
Material wears out before the seams blow.
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apogee
climber
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
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Could it be that 5.10 has finally built an approach shoe that might actually last for a while? What a concept...
I have a pair of Scarpas that I bought a few years ago- first time I've tried Scarpa approach shoes- I'm not hugely impressed. The rand stitching quickly abraded and started peeling, and they are still too tight and sporty for my tastes.
My all-time fave-rave approach shoe was the old Sportiva Boulders- the purple ones. I could climb like a mofo in them. Since then, too many of the shoes are too sporty- pointed toebox, too tight...not great for wearing all day long on a long alpine scramble or a day of guiding.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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I owned two pairs of La Sportiva Cirque Pro's. Both blew out seams after a few days.
Jam your feet into two or three hand crack pitches and they're pretty much done. I still used them with the blown seams, but I'd never buy again.
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tonym
climber
Oklahoma
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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Camp 4's gute! Guide tennies not so much..
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 30, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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I just pulled a box of new La Sport Cirque Pro's from the closet.
Opened the warrenty card and read:
"Note: If you are using your Mountain running shoes for rock climbing, you must seam seal the stitches or they will fail. With abrasion all things will wear out"
Le Bruce- Send those babies to Barry's Resoles, he put a wall toe with 5.5mm stealth rubber on em for me, then beefed up all the lace loops.
I have used them for years off that resole.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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I have been wearing 5.10s for several years now.
Had the Insights, which lasted about a year. Bought the Camp 4s and love em, have used them as daily wear as well as outdoors. Mine are about 3 years old and really need to be replaced.
When my Camp 4s started to wear out, I bought some Exum Guides, thinking that being as they were built on the same rand, I would be getting a Camp 4 with better ankle support.
Not true, I can barely walk more then 5 miles in them without serious pain and discomfort. I've never been able to get the shoes "broken in." All in all, the shoe has been a waste of money, so I will be going back to the Camp 4 even though I need the extra support.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Love my Exum Guides! Second season....used 'em on a wall last year while hangin' with mucci and munge. Got wet on the second day (storm rolled in). Had them torqued in all kinds of funky ways and no tears, no glue seperation....nothing. They still feel comfy. Love the high scree collar and the stitched up toe rand.
"Gee....if your kid spills his milk, do you slap him?"
 John Candy (Planes Trains Automobiles)
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Camp Four's=Best mountain shoe I have ever owned. I use them for running, approaches, scrambling, walk off's, stream crossing, and drinking fine wine and beer. I'm on my fourth or fifth pair. They get replaced about every 9 months.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Camp fours are the best!
: )
Doug
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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I've had Mountain Masters, Guide Alightys, and Camp Fours. I loved the shoes, but they always fell apart. Sometimes after just a couple of trips.
The Camp Fours probably were the best. I then tried the La Sportiva Boulder.
They didn't like my feet. Have gone back to the Guide Tennie, and it seems to be holding up.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Let's see, in the quiver right now:
Insights that are going on 2+ years old of being my main approach shoe, half that in Joshua Tree, that still look fantastic. Footbeds/foam is packed out, time for new ones, but durability was never an issue.
Daescents, a specialty shoe that are really light, and pack flat. These are surely delicate and won't take abuse, only use them when I need a shoe to go up the route with me on the back of the harness for a walk-off I don't want to do in climbing shoes. Perfect for that application.
Guide tennies that are ~1yr, second pair. Good all arounder approach/scrambling/easy route shoe. Climb WAY better than the Camp4 or Insights or the predecessor. If I need to climb 4th-5.easy all day, this is the one. Really a perfect guiding shoe. Touch of seam grip in the right spots (will vary depending on your foot), you're golden. Coating the whole thing like buddy above seems like some serious overkill...and the makings of a very hot and slimy shoe.
Have had multiple pairs of Mtn Masters...comfy but poor durability. Had Camp4 and the immediate predecessor model to it. Both very, very good in everyway. Still not the rig if you need to climb anything remotely technical in them. You're always going to trade comfort for performance.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Pretty good description on the Daescents, Will. I have also used them for some pretty long approaches, but only the kind where I know the foot abuse is going to be minimal. I really like how light they are. You do not want to be rubbing them against rock any more than you can help it, thats for sure.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 23, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
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So does anyone know of a cobbler who can put the 'shonie patch' on some Guide Tennies?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 23, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
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God bless thread revivals. Since this thread was started I've actually bought some 5.10ies. They are not seam sealed but seam sealing them will be the very next thing I do.
Thanks for the tip!!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 23, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
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I now own four pair. Oldest pair is three years old. the sole is getting smooth but otherwise they are in great shape. I won't need new approach shoes for 10 years+. best part is the last two pair cost $35 each.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Jan 23, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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I have had Insights, Camp 4s (2 pairs) and guide tennies. Loved them all. They all lasted about a year, through heavy use in Yosemite. Not climbing big walls with them though, that would definitely accelerate their demise.
Camp 4's: comfortable, once hiked clouds rest valley to valley in a day in them, no real discomfort. Heavy though. Don't climb super well.
Guide Tennies: lightweight and climb well but have major discomfort if I try to hike any distance in them. I just use them for short approaches and climbing up to 5.7 on certain routes.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jan 23, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Rocking the Insights...they are stiff and sloppy but hike good enough for me. Wouldn't climb in them because I need all the help I can get (re: climbing shoes).
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