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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 30, 2011 - 09:26am PT
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So I bought a pair of 5.10 approach shoes for the first time since the old blue leather with no tread climbing sole, circa 1991. The reason I didn't purchase more pairs was because the next pair I bought (newer with tread) absolutely sucked. I'm talking about walking out of the bottom of those crap shoes near the top of the Cannon Mountain talus slope. I had to tape the shoe together to make it back to the car. And those shoes were probably two months old, max. I swore off 5.10 approach shoes forever (though I still liked their climbing shoes). If I had been on a wall route...
Anyway, I'm liking these 5.10 approach shoes for now; well, at least for the past two days. Anyone have any experiences, good or bad, with the newest generation? I'm interested to see what the future might hold. Should I always carry around a roll of duct tape, juat in case :) Or maybe I sould be doing that as a matter of course anyway.
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Leggs
Sport climber
El Presidio, Tucson
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Mar 30, 2011 - 09:35am PT
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Timely post, as I was JUST trying on a pair of 5.10 approach shoes last night at Summit Hut...i was COMPLETELY torn, esp. since they were on sale for 39 bones. I didn't buy. Hoping to find the red ones, old school style.
Good luck with your pair...have fun!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Mar 30, 2011 - 10:00am PT
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I'm with Dingus! Pieces of junk and no customer support. Sticky rubber, but they'll fall apart before you get to the rock on any approach other than flat sandy 10 minute hikes.
Peace
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Mar 30, 2011 - 10:00am PT
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I am surprised how well they climb. I carry extra insoles that I can slip in to tighten them up a bit. I appreciate that they are thin underfoot and offer some feel for what's below.
I get up some 5.10- in them and think they could go further with the right pair of feet in them. Same could probably be said for most approach shoes... though most seem to be thicker for better walking. They don't walk particularly well for long distances, but they are OK for what they are.
YMMV,
jb
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sethsquatch76
Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
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Mar 30, 2011 - 10:20am PT
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Guide tennies are a necessary evil...... 1 shoe does it all!!!!!!! That being said they are disposable. Last summer I climbed Devils tower 40 times in these shoes.
A trick me and my guide buddies do to get more life, sew a piece of leather on the outside surface (right and left) immediately behind the rand. That being said I still go through 2 pairs/year.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 30, 2011 - 10:32am PT
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The insight- similar to the Camp 4, is going strong for me after a year and change. I usually buy a pair and wear them for over a year straight without a problem.
The mountain masters had issues with the sole, but that seems to have been fixed with Camp 4 and the Insight.
I don't climb in them, because I prefer real climbing shoes, but I do everything else in them. I wear them to work, both the civilized job and the construction, I hike in them, and I scramble to climbs in them. They are great on talus too.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mar 30, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Love my Five Tens, I have the Guide Tennie, Exum Guide, Grandstone and some running shoe that they don't make anymore. I have used Five Tens since the early 90's when they imported that gray and lime green approach shoe. For the amount I climb they hold up very well. When they finally do start wearing out I use them for kayaking and canyoneering. I could see if I made my living in the mountains they may wear faster than say Scarpa or similar shoe but 5.10's really fit well and are sticky as cat crap.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
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Bought a pair of Exum Guides this year.
First day I wore them on an overhanging aid pitch, the soft spongy sole near the front toe rubber separated from the rubber leaving a wide tear. This happened from the camming of my toe against the rock when I stepped up in the third and second steps.
Seemed a bit weak for the job.
Have used La Sportiva approach shoes and liked them a bit more.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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I agree with seth, "shonie patches" have freaking tripled the life of my guide tennies. Thats a great approach shoe to climb in.
However I really prefer the camp 4. Thing is BURLY. Should last twice as long, even with the shonie patches. Hikes much, MUCH better. However doesn't climb "as" well, but you have climbing shoes for the hard stuff right????
Oh and Seth I met your wife at Playhouse while she was working, what a cool chick!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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I didn't like the "guide tennies" very much. I've had a pair of the Camp 4s since the autumn, and quite like them.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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The Guide Tennies wear horribly. A tube of Seam Grip right when you buy them can net you an extra couple months though.
Camp 4s have been great for me. I can get about 5 walls and several hundred trail miles in them before the heel cup material starts wearing through.
Would like to hear some stories about the D'Ascent.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
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I have several pairs of Insights that I use for hiking, canyoneering and 3rd class. The oldest pair has thin soles after a couple years of use. Awesome shoes!
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
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I've been happy with my new Scarpa Quest approach shoes so far (more climbing oriented than the Zen). I can't speak to durability myself yet but I've heard they are like the 5.tennies but don't fall apart as fast.
There do seem to be a lot of hiking shoes out there with sticky rubber that don't climb that well and the 5.tennies are one of the better climbers. The Quest is very similar. I had a heck of a time figuring out what to replace my Technica Mountain Approach shoes with as those rocked!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 30, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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I've had much better luck with Scarpa, pretty good luck with Garmont, poor luck with Sportiva and sh#t luck with 5.10. Merril makes an okay shoe as well, but it's pretty bulky and padded.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 30, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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Camp Four
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Mar 30, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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Second the Seam grip recommendation.
I usually go with a two tubes a pair and make sure to hit the inside seams.
It doesn't matter if you use the oil or synthetic based Seamgrip they both seem to work the same.
After a couple of hard seasons the fabric will wear out before the stitching blows.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Mar 30, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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I loved my old Guide Almighty's. I wore them till they started turning to dust. I then tracked down an identical replacement pair shortly after they discontinued that version. Those things simply started falling apart like they were assembled with Elmers glue (multiple pieces delaminating on both shoes).
I'd mostly had good experience with 5.10 for both climbing shoes and approach shoes till then, but I had enough trouble with that pair and a couple more within a year later that I stopped buying 5.10 and now only consider them if they are >50% off as I figure that is a rough estimate of the probability of success with them.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 30, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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I usually go with a two tubes a pair and make sure to hit the inside seams. Just slaughter your own cow, cut up some radials and cobble your own - no problem.
Other than that, I'm failing to see what the seam grip did for you, other than possibly rotting out the material from the inside sooner.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Mar 30, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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An unseamedgriped pair lasted me about a month, after the goop job a pair lasted 18 months before the fabric blew out.
Do your own research if you want something more conclusive.
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lele honu
Trad climber
SD
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Mar 30, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
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Hiked up and climbed Whitney in my Camp4's! Love'em.
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