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John_Box
Ice climber
Bellingham
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Jan 13, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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Ahh it doesn't look that bad... till you convert the inches into thousands of feet. One of my favorite threads, thanks a ton for posting.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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it was 81 when we were there on alberta and the lowe/jones had obviously been done. yet, looking over at north twin was like looking into mordor. the sounds of rockfall echoed strong warnings around that cirque. that face has some serious gravity...
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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I always preach this to people who only rock climb. When you take it to the mountains, you are in a whole new world of peril. BASE jumping back in the old and dirty days of crappy gear, broken bones, and death, was nowhere near as bad as climbing stuff in the mountains. And I ain't talking the Sierra here. In the summer, anyway.
I read "Climbing in North America" by Chris Jones when I was a young and impressionable boy. It talked about the NFNT route and it sounded pretty horrendous. The kind of stuff that only a 15 year old can aspire to. Good god did that thing ever look beautiful from a distance and ugly up close (from the pictures).
White Spider is the book that changed my life. I never did the Eiger, although I went over there to do it once. I spent almost a week at the base and never saw above the second icefield. Is that little 5 foot by 5 foot shephard's hut dug into the hillside still there? I gave up and hitched back to Cham.
You can hike back to Grindelwald for beer from the Eiger. It is pretty ugly up close, as well. I would like to hear Jello's stories on that face some day.
My opinion is that the guys who do this stuff are animals, and I have always thought that. If you just climb rock in the sun in a good climate, you have no idea of the misery...And rockfall coming by just missing you. It is like tossing softballs at one of those dunk the jerk rigs at the circus. Sooner or later one will have your name on it. Minimizing exposure to that stuff is one of the most important things, and you have to climb fast with almost no pro.
That is my interpretation of alpinism in general. Kind of backseat driving to this crowd.
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prunes
climber
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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prunes
climber
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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prunes
climber
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:57am PT
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 14, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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Trilobites? They were placed by the great flood!
Eiger N Face: The most of it I ever saw.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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Hopefully Chris Jones will weigh in here at some point! I talked to him about joining in a while back so with any luck...Somebody prompt Greg to pull up a chair!!! I sure would love to see some more images from either of these big routes.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 21, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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barry, thanks for those incredible photos! what an amazing journey that was.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Jan 21, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
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barry-
wow!
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Cloudraker
Big Wall climber
BC
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Jan 21, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
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Barry those photos are killer!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:09am PT
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Nah, we ain't lettin' this gem slip backwards quite yet.
Barry, while those vintage slides do have a certain charm I would
love to see them properly scanned and 'shopped'. There's
some real beauts there!
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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I'm feeling ill after looking at those pictures ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
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Good time to bump this.
Also, check out Barry's pictures: well worth a look.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 14, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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check out Barry's pictures
What a story they tell.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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The bump is worth it even for those of us who have read this one from the start, just to make sure people click back a page and find the link to Barry's trip report.
Way cool.
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myterious
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Jun 27, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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Cool, good to see some CA rockies action, doesn't seem like anyone goes up there anymore, haven't been there in a while myself.
MM
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Sep 12, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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ended up here again from a link on Steve House.net
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